Front Suspension Bottomed Out

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Abodyjoe. Where did you get the new cams for the upper control arms. I am willing to try anything right now. BTW, I rebuilt upper and lower arms with new bushings and ball joints. Didn't cure anything. David
 
Have the torsion bars been heated for removal if so it would remove the temper and the bars would twist and not hold the weight. That will make it settle when moved like you are saying. Draw a straight line down the bars when it is completly unloaded then load it and roll it and see how much twist you are getting.
 
Since the collapse is quiet, the only thing it could be is the adjusters backing off. Reset your ride height and make a horizontal mark on the adjuster bolt for reference. Get it to collapse and see how far the adjuster bolt has moved. The threaded portion of the adjuster has a slight ovaling of the bolt hole to act as a thread lock. If the adjuster has been run in and out enough the ovaling is gone and the adjuster will back out at the slightest provocation.
 
steptoe said:
Abodyjoe. Where did you get the new cams for the upper control arms. I am willing to try anything right now. BTW, I rebuilt upper and lower arms with new bushings and ball joints. Didn't cure anything. David
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just suspension i think it was. should be quite a few places that carry them. they aren't very expensive either. mine would be aligned perfect then drive it around the block and the car would be low and out of alignment.
 
Moog Cams are part #K8243A. They should be available at most parts suppliers. If they don't carry the Moog brand, they should be able to cross the part #.
 
grumpuscreature said:
Did the torsion bars slip out or did you have to drive them out? The torsion bars are not a slip fit in the pockets. If it is you have a torsion bar pocket that is worn out and needs to be replaced.
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The are a slip fit, its only rust and crud that forces you to use a tool to drive them out or you have not removed the upper bump stops and there is still loaded.

They would have to be worn round to not hold the car up.
 
I had a problem similar to this with the Demon. Turns out I had to "re-clock" the bars. To do this I had to disconnect the shock absorber and the upper ball joint. This lets the lca go to full down extension. Then I backed the adjusters out full where just the ball end of the adjuster screw is above the swivel. Then I removed the torsion bars. If the bar is under load at this point, the most likely cause is buttoning up the suspension with the upper control arm resting on the bump stop. If so, lift lower control arm until tension is relieved.

Move the lever in the lower control arm until it makes contact with the top of the screw in the swivel. Install the torsion bar keeping the lever in the lca in contact with the screw top in the swivel. Connect upper control arm. Install wheel assembly and lower car.

The car will probably be sitting on the uca bump stop. You now have the full travel of the adjuster bolt to increase the tension in the torsion bar. In the case of the Demon, I cranked until I had about an inch of bolt remaining on the lower side of the control arm before I had proper ride height.

I found that bouncing up and down on the front end was enough to slide the tires out on a glazed concrete floor.
 
Thanks 72 Demon. I'll try that. Maybe, I haven't been setting and adjusting the suspension right. David
 
Yeah, it's fixed. I am learning that Mopars aren't anything like a Chevy. Yeah, I have been a Chevy man all my life but I love the Mopars also. I have an '06 Chrysler 300C, '91 Dodge Dakota, '75 Dodge Dart Swinger, and a ''55 Chevy Belair 2 door sedan. This Dart was driving me up the wall and thanks to everyone responding here for the info and help. It was really a combination of things causing the bottoming out. I changed the camber and toe-in and really cranked up the adjusting bolts on the LCA's. It worked. I lowered the car and for the first time it did NOT drop after moving the car. What a pleasant surprise. Again, thank you all for helping a "newbie" to the wonderful world of Mopars. =P~
 
Well that's cool! Ahhh when a factory service manual is needed in such cases, but then, we have friends on the net...
 
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