Frozen Brakes

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pacuda59

pacuda59

pacuda59
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I picked up an 8 1/4 rear from a junkyard this weekend. I've gotten the drum off of one side but after an hour of working the other with a hammer and chisel it remains frozen. Any suggestions or tricks?
 
pacuda59 said:
I picked up an 8 1/4 rear from a junkyard this weekend. I've gotten the drum off of one side but after an hour of working the other with a hammer and chisel it remains frozen. Any suggestions or tricks?
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Have you drenched it with penetrating lube of your choice?
 
you can snip of the heads of the spring nails on the back side of the backing plates. that should let you pull the whole drum with brakes stuck to drum. is there an emergency cable hanging out the backing plate? could have the e-brake on and rusted the cable to housing also. if that dont work you can rent a drum puller from local auto parts stores. get good tension on the puller the smack the drum with a hammer a few times.

new128dbc2.jpg
 
There is an emergency cable hanging off the back. Not sure what the spring nails look like. This is my first go round with drums.
 
pacuda59 said:
There is an emergency cable hanging off the back. Not sure what the spring nails look like. This is my first go round with drums.
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you can cut the heads off on the back side. they are what holds the brake shoes to the backing plates.

rdrum6.jpg
 
OK...just went out to locate them...thanks for the picture. I'll take a shot at them tomorrow. I guess a Sawzall should work.
 
View attachment drum_brake_system.jpg

See the part on the bottom that has the teeth (adjusting screw)? You can push in the lever and then use a brake tool to screw in the adjuster. If you don't have a brake tool you should be able to use a screwdriver.





There is a different kind of keeper used also but the adjusting screw would still work the same way.
 
I guess a Sawzall should work.
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Would be really tuff to do that with a sawzall . Better to just reach in (there are two slots near the bottom of the backing plate, sometimes they have a rubber plug)with a screwdriver and turn the star adjuster to loosen the shoes ,if that does not work get some Dike pliers to cut the head off of the spring pins .
 
daredevil said:
Small sharp metal chisel and a hammer. Cut the heads off the pins.
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This is the best way to cut the heads off the pins......... but also remove the
two bolts that hold the wheel cylinder in place, as it helps to remove as many
pieces of brake hardware, to give you that little extra clearance to remove the drum. Like a previous poster said, you can try and loosen the star adjuster
at the backing plate, as long as its not frozen solid. I've actually taken a torch flame and heated the adjuster threads thorough the adjuster window enough to free it up. Just keep working it, it'll come loose. For the most stubborn Michigan drums, I just pull out the plasma cutter, and done. Good luck.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I just went through this. Knowing I didn't want to go through it again, I drilled and tapped the drum, to take a 3/8-16 bolt, in two places. That way if I have this problem again, I can use the bolts to help loosen the drum, by screwing them into the axle bracket.
 
I doubt it's the shoes holding on that's your problem, I wouldn't cut them off. Backing off the star wheel will pull them in. I grew up in Detroit, I know about rust. Most likely it's the center of the drum rusted on to the axle that is your problem. Use liberal amounts of penetrating oil & let it sit for a while. You may also try emery cloth on the axle to clean it up. Lastly, heat it with a torch and gently pry from both sides. Prying too hard will distort the drum and make the problem worse so be gentle with it. Beat it with a ball-peen hammer all the way around the drum and at the axle while prying. It will eventually come off. Inventing new swear words helps too!
 
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