Fuel pump pushrod plug stripped.

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Turbo440Dart

Turbo440Dart

crank runner over-er
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Long story short, long day at work. Figured I'd quickly pop the fuel pump pushrod out before taking off my boots and heading in. Stripped the plug. Thinking either weld a nut to it, or maybe try to hammer a metric allen socket into it. Advice, tips?

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The BEST, easiest and most simple way to get that plug out is with heat.

If you have a torch, heat the PLUG until it is bright red. Wait about 30 seconds and spray a little WD40 on the plug. Some guys use wax. That works too. Or anything like WD40 will work.

You’ll be able to back the plug out without any resistance. If you have a flat blade screwdriver that is big enough to fit into the hex (what’s left of it) it will screw right out.
 
Those plugs are tig welded out in seconds. Turn it out with your fingers after tig welding a knob on it and cooling it with air. I watch my son do it on several bolts, studs and plugs
 
thanks everyone. I'll give it a shot with some heat tonight when I get off, if that doesn't work itll get something welded to it.
 
Just tig weld a bolt into it. Tig welding to the plug does something with the current when grounded to the block and using the tig on the plug. It is not only the heat. The current disintegrates the corrosion between the block and plug. I cannot believe the studs my son turns out after doing this. We do not use easy-outs any more at all. "Tig" not "mig" I don't tig weld never did he taught me this trick. Cool it with air immediately to shrink the plug.

Heating a part that is inside of another part expands the part you are heating. That tightens it. Cooling it faster then the block makes it smaller then the hole its in if done quickly while leaving the block a warmer.

Heating a nut is taken off when hot. Heating a bolt is cooled faster then the external threads and loosens the bolt or plug. I don't know if that makes sense to you all but that is the theory. The flow of current helps annihilate the corrosion.

Did you ever heat a nut and it ruins the threads on the bolt. If you could cool the bolt or only heat the nut it wouldn't pull the threads. Amazing what these kids can teach us old timers. Never let them know their heads swell. LOL
 
Turbo440Dart said:
Going electric, and using the fuel pump hole as an oil drain for the turbo, rod seems like itll be in the way of the oil draining in.
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Well if all else fails you can drill and tap a block off plate with a 1/8” NPT tap and use a 1/8” NPT fuel fitting.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Well if all else fails you can drill and tap a block off plate with a 1/8” NPT tap and use a 1/8” NPT fuel fitting.
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My block off plate has a -12 AN nipple for the return line. Which is what leads me to think the rod being in there will hinder the oil flowing back into the block.

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Get a can of this stuff.
Heat up the block. Flip this can over and shoot the plug. The air comes out at subzero temperature. Don't ask me why but it does.
We use these to test the thermostats on heat tracing at work.

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charger426 said:
It freezes because it’s a type of refrigerant.
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I assumed it was some type of refrigerant. I know how A/C works. As an electrician, we maintain A/C systems throughout the plant I work at. The EPA is very strict on recovering freon but Green Weenies can deplete the ozone with this stuff.

Funny thing... I googled this stuff and it's commonly used for removing warts. Genital warts.
 
Dfr360cuda said:
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I assumed it was some type of refrigerant. I know how A/C works. As an electrician, we maintain A/C systems throughout the plant I work at. The EPA is very strict on recovering freon but Green Weenies can deplete the ozone with this stuff.

Funny thing... I googled this stuff and it's commonly used for removing warts. Genital warts.
Click to expand...
Yeah I don’t know why we have to change refrigerant standards ever 15-20 years but can just blast refrigerant at junk worts and dusty keyboards. Guess the only person that’s negatively affected by the changes are the techs and consumers.
 
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