Fuel Return Line - Do I Need One?

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mda440

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I need some help as I'm starting to get parts to redo the entire fuel system. Do you need a fuel return when running a mechanical fuel pump? I'm looking at a 3/8" sending unit and feed line with a mechanical carter fuel pump and a 750 Carter Comp Series AFB on a 451. The sending unit has a 3/8" feed and 1/4 return line, would I just cap the return at the sending unit. I'm a newb when it come to carb's, only work on fuel injection at work. Also, is it just the pump that determines fuel pressure, (I know I need to keep it below 6 psi) or will I need a regulator? Any help is greatly appreciated. THANK YOU
 
yes, cap it off if you don't use it. you will get many opinions on the return line issue. I don't run one and the car runs fine. yes a regulator and gauge are a good idea so you can adjust it if needed regardless what the manufacturer says it puts out.
 
I vote "no" to the return line also. I'm running a Carter mechanical fuel pump to my 750 DP Demon through a holly regulator (set at 7PSI) with no problems. 3/8" fuel line of course and fuel filter before and after the fuel pump. :burnout:

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Nope, no return... get a good out the back 15psi gague NON liquid filled, set to 6psi. I put a filter before the pump and a small inline filter before the regulator. Make sure when doing new fuel lines you blow them out good with compressed air to get any debris out of it. I had fits because I didn't blow mine out good enough and kept plugging up my regulator and my needle valve in my carb :sign6:
 
I wouldnt run one with a mechanical pump. If it was an electric pump I would recomend one. It puts less stress on the pump and keeps the fuel cooler.
 
Thanks guys, this forum is awesome! I'll cap the return and go with a regulator and gauge setup inline. THANK YOU for your help.
 
Why not use the 1/2" pick-up, sender without the return line (same price)? A 3/8" line will fit just inside the 1/2" out line. Use 3/8" rubber fuel line and hose clamps to connect. An electric pump fits inline on the inside pass. frame rail and they like the 3/8" intake line. Then use what line ever is there to send it forward under pressure. or upgrade. The 3/8" pick up bend tends to reduce the out-put volume. Plus the return line "plugging" can leak.
 
I'm a huge believe in return line systems. First one I ever saw / had was factory on my 70 RR 440 V code car. IT WORKED. Very little trouble with vapor lock

I added on to the Dart before converting to EFI

Don't confuse fuel return with the 70's evaporative control system (carbon can)
 
Question: I also have 1974 Cuda 440 with a Quick fuel regulator.
This car now has the tank vapor line, fitted to an open tube that lays under the intake for evaporation. The regulator has an extra out, that I want to use an orifice 'd down fitting, connected to that vapor line and use it, after I disconnect from the separator tank. I will add some 1/4" steel tubing to reach to the sender's return fitting. NOW WHAT? is the best way to vent the gas tank from the tank's separator's vapor out fitting?? (answer?) A new 1/4" steel tube going up near the fill opening and back down to inside the frame, like my 68 cuda? (Thanks for reading this mess.)
 

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If your driving in hot weather then a return line is a must. Keeps the vapor lock associated with our newer and less improved "gasoline" away. For a bit more effort you will never have to worry about heating up your fuel. Midwest summers are hell on cars and vapor lock is a common problem.
 
This car now has the tank vapor line, fitted to an open tube that lays under the intake for evaporation. The regulator has an extra out, that I want to use an orifice 'd down fitting, connected to that vapor line and use it, after I disconnect from the separator tank. I will add some 1/4" steel tubing to reach to the sender's return fitting. NOW WHAT? is the best way to vent the gas tank from the tank's separator's vapor out fitting?? (answer?) A new 1/4" steel tube going up near the fill opening and back down to inside the frame, like my 68 cuda? (Thanks for reading this mess.)

Pretty much. You MUST get the vent into an "open" or "vapor" area to prevent a siphon. I'm not familiar enough with the later cars to exactly advise. I would guess if you built a vent from the original fitting in the vapor separator, you are OK. Some cars had what amounts to a check valve right near the end of the 1/4" tube in the engine bay. Look for a suspicious crimped area within 6" of the end. You want that removed
 
A good fuel return also helps with this crappy gas we have to run as well. You will not regret running a good return system.
 
I'm a huge believe in return line systems. First one I ever saw / had was factory on my 70 RR 440 V code car. IT WORKED. Very little trouble with vapor lock

I added on to the Dart before converting to EFI

Don't confuse fuel return with the 70's evaporative control system (carbon can)
This.

And as RRR pointed out, the fuel we get today is nothing like the fuel available when the car was built. Fuel today is formulated to work in EFI systems where it is pretty much impossible to vapor lock the supply line. Not true in a carb'd application, and the fuel formulation no longer allows for that.

Said differently, cars that wouldn't vapor lock on the fuel available when they were built very likely will vapor lock on today's fuel - even when everything is EXACTLY as it left the showroom floor.

I like mechanical pumps for their simplicity. If I could put a mechanical pump at the tank I would. I'm slowly converting my whole fleet to electric pumps with return systems. Keeping the fuel under pressure is the key to no vapor lock. Mech. pumps have a vacuum between they and the tank. Exactly what you don't want with modern fuel.
 
Most carbureted engines have a mechanical in-line fuel pump, which means that the simple mechanical pump is placed on the fuel line, usually next to the engine. The fuel pump’s closeness to the engine means that the engine’s heat causes the fuel in the line to become very hot. When the fuel becomes too hot, it turns into a vapor, just as water begins to turn to steam when it boils. This process is hastened by the vacuum created in the line as the fuel is sucked into the engine.

When the fuel turns into vapor, the mechanical fuel pump can no longer move it along the lines. As a result, some or all of the fuel stops getting into the combustion chambers, and the car either begins to run very roughly or dies completely. If the driver attempts to restart the car, it will probably not start, or will continue having problems.

Vapor lock does not usually happen in fuel-injected engines for several reasons. First of all, most electric fuel pumps are located at or in the fuel tank, which is usually located too far away from the engine to be affected by its heat, so the gasoline is not likely to turn to vapor there. As a result, the fuel pump can push the fuel along without any problems.

Another reason why this problem does not often happen in fuel-injected engines is because the fuel lines are usually pressurized. The high pressure that the fuel is under prevents it from turning into vapor quite as easily, unlike the carbureted system that actually produces negative pressure, also known as vacuum, in the lines.

Fuel today is designed to atomize quicker and more efficiently which means it also turns to vapor easier.
 
In the 80's they started using a fuel filter with an extra nipple sticking out the side. That nipple was connected to a return line. Those fuel filters are still available at most stores. That would be the easiest way to do it. I wonder if Fine Lines offers the older A-body lines with a return? If I remember correctly, my fuel line runs right through a very small hole in the torsion bar x-member. I doubt there is enough room for an extra return line. Obviously I could drill the hole larger.

A few people have mentioned that they have a filter BEFORE the fuel pump. I've always read that it's not a good idea. The mechanical pumps are good at pushing fuel, but not very good at pulling fuel. I've read of starvation issues that were traced to a filter installed BEFORE the pump. The sock in the tank is all you should need.
 
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