Furnace Ideas / Help
- Thread starter LO23M8B
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
That doesn't make sense as the diagram only goes to tap 5
What I'd try at this point--the diagram is poorly done in my opinion. But the taps at the board are labeled as to color.
So figure a way to bypass the door safety, Get the blower running in heating mode (do NOT energize the blower by jumpering the green stat wire--that will put the blower into high speed/ AC mode
Find out which wire is being supplied. If you have a clamp on ammeter that will be easy. ALL the taps will show voltage as they are being backfed from the motor.
If you have the "guts" to do so, carefully pull a wire at a time off the tap rail until the motor stops. Then safe off that wire and swap red into that tap. Red is low speed.
Alternatively, you can try removing and taping all wires except red, and when the the fan delay is triggered in your estimation, try the red on each tap to see if it fires, or just go down the row with your meter. Then install red on that tap
You need to hook up the condensate drain. All furnaces have them and need to be drained outside some way either a condensate pump or through the wall with PVC. It shows you in the installation instructions different ways the manufacturer recommends.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
LOLOL That is what started this whole thing.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Sorry my friend that really does not help. This is because 1, I cannot read some of the wire numbers, which "may" give a clue
2...The board is so integrated that you really cannot read much into it
BUT what I said earlier is still what I'd do---that is, figure out which tap is going live, on heating, and hook the red fan lead to that tap which should be the low speed. Looking at the "taps" rail on the board, not sure what orange is. Normally, red is lowest speed, and black is highest speed.
I don't see connections for a "run" capacitor, but some split phase, low HP motors don't use them.
Some random thoughts
The "tap rail" seems to be the key, and seems to be programmable, but I'd guess you need a proprietary instrument to do so
One of the taps HAS to be coming on live for heating, so the trick is to match that with the red wire
Also, you need at least one other speed connected to the "high speed" or AC tap because 1....if you ever want a summer circulation fan, you can activate the green stat wire and that will bring on that tap--if a fan wire is connected
2....It is also important to have a fan lead hooked to the AC tap, because if the furnace overheats, and trips the high limit, that action normally triggers the high speed tap in an effort to cool down the furnace--if the fan still runs.
If you want to call me, feel free. Send me a PM. Del
2...The board is so integrated that you really cannot read much into it
BUT what I said earlier is still what I'd do---that is, figure out which tap is going live, on heating, and hook the red fan lead to that tap which should be the low speed. Looking at the "taps" rail on the board, not sure what orange is. Normally, red is lowest speed, and black is highest speed.
I don't see connections for a "run" capacitor, but some split phase, low HP motors don't use them.
Some random thoughts
The "tap rail" seems to be the key, and seems to be programmable, but I'd guess you need a proprietary instrument to do so
One of the taps HAS to be coming on live for heating, so the trick is to match that with the red wire
Also, you need at least one other speed connected to the "high speed" or AC tap because 1....if you ever want a summer circulation fan, you can activate the green stat wire and that will bring on that tap--if a fan wire is connected
2....It is also important to have a fan lead hooked to the AC tap, because if the furnace overheats, and trips the high limit, that action normally triggers the high speed tap in an effort to cool down the furnace--if the fan still runs.
If you want to call me, feel free. Send me a PM. Del
Demonic
Well-Known Member
I hope that's not one of those ECM motors. They're big bucks when they die. Also, you need to check the furnace tag for the RISE *F, the difference between return and discharge air temperature in heating. Too much means the fan is running too slow, which may trip the high limit.
Edit- Setting airflow in in the book you posted, p 95-97.
Edit- Setting airflow in in the book you posted, p 95-97.
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
CRAP!! I finally realized the menu display and menu buttons are right on the control board. So yeh, you should be able to control the taps from that.
Would have been nice if they'd made that a bit more clear
Would have been nice if they'd made that a bit more clear
Will do.
Ya I know directions are for crap. Thanks for all your assistance.
Have to do it in a day or 2 have other stuff going on at the moment. And thanks again.
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