Fuse 4 blows

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73swinger340

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Ok guys, FNG here. I bought a 73 dart swinger two weeks ago. Runs and looks great but I have some electrical issues. I didn't have any brake lights so checked my fuses and fuse 4 was blown. When I installed it the dome light came on and was on continuously with the doors closed. I should mention, when it pulled the blown fuse it was a 30A. I tried the turn signals since the left wouldn't work before the swap and both worked but they dont flash. I hit the hazards and everything flashed including the dome light. Then the fuse blew. :wack: the funny thing is I am getting mixed indications. I didn't have dash lights before the fuse and now they work after. I didn't have left signal before and now I do except for the one on the front fender. I don't know what info I need to give you guys to help you help me. I used to troubleshoot aircraft so I'm competent. I tried a bunch of things and wrote down all the things that worked and didn't work so ask away.
 
I should mention there is a new tach, temp, and pressure gauges. I don't know if he swapped cut or grounded anything during the swap
 
First step is a service manual if you don't have one

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617

That no 4 fuse services a LOT of "stuff" look on page 8-115

You might have multiple issues

FENDER.......Do you have the "fuel pacer" or whatever it's called option?

See this thread:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1969835210

DOME.......you checked the light switch? When twisted all the way to the left, this activates the dome lights. First thing I'd do is to disconnect all the door switches.

That is only supposed to be a 20A fuse, but is hot all the time, so it would not be wired to a tach

Check the cigarette lighter, or better, just pull the wire off the back until you get this sorted out

This might be a time to get a tester known by various names. It is essentially an automatic reset breaker which allows you to chase down shorts while having a protective device in the circuit One name is "short finder" and they are made by many of the major auto tool outfits, KD tools, etc

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-2524-Circuit-Detector/dp/B000RH6JP6"]Amazon.com: KD Tools 2524 Short Circuit Detector: Home Improvement[/ame]

The device with clip leads is clipped onto the fuse holder. It blinks like a flasher (resets) if the short cycles the breaker. The meter device detects magnetism..........current draw.........in the wire harness. You DO have to be able to access part of the affected harness, you lay the meter device against the harness to detect current flow

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31MIKzMVV+L.jpg
 
I downloaded and am looking through it now. No fuel pacer option I believe. The right fender works but the left doesn't. I'll try the door switches tomorrow. For some reason I see the driver side front turn signal on steady with the turn signal off or right.
 
Ok I just put the short detector on rush order. Will have it Saturday. Never saw those before. Thats a great idea
 
Does it matter on the left lamp, whether the headlight switch is clear off, or in park or headlights? That might indicate a grounding problem

With the problem showing up, that is, with the left lamp lit up, try disconnecting the steering column connector where the TS switch comes out of the column, see if it causes the lamp to go out.

IF THE lamp does go out, find the Light Green wire in that connector on the "car" side (not the column, and ground it with a jumper. If the left lamp comes back on, you are getting a "back feed" from some other circuit.

If it does not, you MAY have a bad TS switch.

With the front lamp lit IE "the problem" showing up, and with the TS switch connector hooked back up, pull out the left front bulb. Take a test lamp or meter and probe for power at the light green wire either at the socket or at the TS switch connector. If you have power there, then you are likely getting power from the TS switch, "a problem."

Once again pull the connector loose, and probe for power at the light green at the "car side" of the connector. No power means it was LIKELY coming from the switch and not a backfeed from somewhere else
 
This sounds more like a socket ground problem Might also be a shorted bulb or wrong bulb
 
The LED needs to have an electronic flasher to work. I would put in regular bulbs until it's sorted out.
 
Ok to update, I have all the right bulbs in and the fuse was still blowing. I opened the driver side kick plate and disconnected the two connectors there, one then the other, and started the car. No fuse blow. Now the funny part. I tried to start the car a third time and no power ANYWHERE. I plugged both connectors up car doesn't attempt to turn. Turn the key I get nothing. Lights won't even come on. I know I have 12V coming from the starter relay on both sides of the disable link. I have no idea unless all of a sudden the alternator went out.

I know what that 8 pin connector was behind the kick plate. What about that 2 pin? Could that be a problem? I literally just started the car twice and didn't get out of the seat. Screwed with those connectors behind the kick plate. Tried a third time and now nothing.
 
check your fuse block very carefully--- the these cars are prone to melting,


I thought I had a good used unit (harness) -visually had checked ok & yet in the fuse block it had started to melt a 30a fuse- local guy showed me the flaw-- he went right to the block & turned it over & showed me the melt.
says it is a very common flaw in 73 & 74 cars-- Lawrence
 
VDART said:
check your fuse block very carefully--- the these cars are prone to melting,


I thought I had a good used unit (harness) -visually had checked ok & yet in the fuse block it had started to melt a 30a fuse- local guy showed me the flaw-- he went right to the block & turned it over & showed me the melt.
says it is a very common flaw in 73 & 74 cars-- Lawrence
Click to expand...

Yup, my 74 shows signs of it. I need a new fuse panel. No issues with it, just don't like knowing it's there.
 
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