Fuse box upgrade 1965 Valiant V200

[65V200Valiant]

I'm trying to move away from the stock bullet fuse box in Valiant to a newer style blade box. I've gotten a blade box out of a scrap yard 1979 Dodge Magnum. I have no idea how the hell to do this or it'll even work. Also I can't find the Magum's wiring diagram.

Any help would be appreciated.

First time poster lifetime electrical idiot.

 

[abdywgn]

Welcome! Sounds like a great idea and ambitious project. Will be watching to see how this turns out. Ask, I think there a free manuals posted?

 

[BWDart]

You will need a wiring diagram for your car then start connecting the new box I bought a blade box for my 72 Dart which was supposed to be correct colors was close but still had to follow diagram to get everything working. Good luck patience is your friend

 

[RogerRamRod]

Understand that that is an ambitious project. I would consider it worthwhile, the biggest benefit probably, forcing you to go through your whole wiring harness and looking at terminals and fixing things.
Get the full wiring diagram for your car, and Trace out and understand each circuit as you go.
An ohmmeter should be considered the bare minimum for this portion. In a volt meter for once you start applying power.
Make sure you are proficient at soldering and heat shrink.
Allied electronics, Amazon, and somebody else, I can’t think of the name right now, for sources
Understand that a car fuse box is not like a house fuse box, there is not one single feed that comes in and feeds everything. Some circuits share a common source and other circuits share a different source, and some circuits are isolated on their own through the fuse box.
It took me a lot (A LOT) longer than I figured, and my project is still ongoing so I haven’t tested everything completely yet.
Label everything to keep your sanity. I used a Dymo Rhino LabelMaker with three-quarter inch wide tape.

 

[4spdragtop]

VERY ambitious if you dont have a clue. I'm electrically challenged but know enough to make sparks.
I hope this isnt your daily driver
Go to mymopar.com for free manuals.
Good luck

 

[RustyRatRod]

It's not that bad at all. You have two power sources. Keyed and constant. Find those on the original fuse box, then on the new fuse box. Locate all your grounds on the old fuse box, then on the new. Then start looking at the amperage ratings on the old fuse box and match them up with the circuits on the new one. You'll start seeing a pattern....and if you don't, then leave it alone.

 

[convx4]

If I were doing the job. This is how I would do it. Remove the wires from the 79 magnum blade box. Then I would cut the wires, one at a time, from the 65 valiant tub box. Then install them in the 79 box. If I needed terminals I would get them from terminal Supply .com

 

[67Dart273]

This really should not be that bad, just tedius. Start by drawing out a large likeness of the fuse panel so you can make notes. Remove all fuses, flashers, etc

REALIZE the following: Most fuses are going to be fed "common" from either:
1...full time hot source or
2...Accessory from key switch or
3....Ignition "run" or

One or two fuses may be isolated AKA dedicated wire to and from the fuse. An example of this in your old box is the small "inst" fuse which feeds the dimmer controlled panel lights. It is powered from a tan wire coming from the headlight switch dimmer, goes TO the inst fuse, and then the output of that fuse feeds off to all dash dimmer controlled lighting.

You can "get a clue" by the fuse labels. HEATER fuse for example, is going to be fed by the ACCESSORY output of the key, rather than "full time hot" or "ignition run." Once you have those wires identified, one, likely the larger is PROBABLY the input from the accessory from the key. Now take THAT identifed "probable" wire and probe other "Likely" fuses such as AC. If one side of AC also goes to to that wire, then that wire IS your "ACCESSORY" input to the fuse panel. AGAIN you are doing this with FUSES REMOVED. This prevents confusing backfeed

You can see bottom row, 3rd from left seems to be "stop lamps." This is likely fed from the "full time hot" input so find what wires both sides go to then see if you can find other likely suspects that are common with one of the wires, and this is going to be your "hot" feed in.

Top row far right seems to be "INST lamps" so this is likely the isolated one wire in/ one wire out just like your 65. "Suspect" that the colors may be the same, tan and orange.

Top row second from left seems to be "RADIO" so one of those two terminals is likely your ACC feed

See? EASY!!