rick_rawker
Well-Known Member
Shaft is tight , this car does have comp cam and solid lifters.
Thanks for the compliment.
So , you have a '67 !
Geez
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Thanks for the compliment.
So , you have a '67 !
rick_rawker
Well-Known Member
Yes a I have a 67 fastback & 69 vert.
If you go elec ign. I would buy matching setup. I don't think they are too expensive
If you go elec ign. I would buy matching setup. I don't think they are too expensive
Lmao..your Welcome....
clifftt
Well-Known Member
X2 on the timing. You can adjust by ear and be off 5 - 10 degrees. Use a timing light to set you timing. If for nothing else, you can eliminate timing as part of the problem.
downsr
Well-Known Member
ck coil
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
and that is presuming the timing marks on the balancer are dead on
(which can be easily checked by removing the #1 plug and checking for top dead center, then see where the timing mark is)
rick_rawker
Well-Known Member
Thanks , found a friend with timing light.
Already checked out TDC. Marked balancer with chalk.
After work I will use the light.
Be sure to set the reluctor gap in the distributor with a .007" or .008" brass feeler gauge between the fins and the pick-up before installing it. Don't assume it's set new from the factory....
trapster
Well-Known Member
Make sure you adjust the valves with the engine hot.
I actually do it with the engine running, but there are others who think that that is a bad idea.
You could also have a bad coil.
I actually do it with the engine running, but there are others who think that that is a bad idea.
You could also have a bad coil.
rick_rawker
Well-Known Member
Ok , will do
Thank you !
rick_rawker
Well-Known Member
I will adjust hot engine.
Second time for possible bad coil.
Thank you for your time and wisdom.
rick_rawker
Well-Known Member
I have seen some four and five prong ECU 's.
Does either one work ?
A four post ballast needs the five pin ECU, a two post ballast needs a four pin ECU... When you use the two post ballast, you just don't use the fifth pin...
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rick_rawker
Well-Known Member
I see, thanks !
You're welcome...
I just saw that I originally posted a two post ECU instead of ballast, but you got the point...
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
IF YOU ARE STILL WITH THE POINTS DISTRIBUTOR: Absolutely no need for a non-magnetic feeler gauge for points. .017-.018" SHOULD get you in the ballpark on dwell but a dwell meter is better. The reason to do this is because if the angular 'nubs' on the distributor that actuate the points are worn down, the gap will NOT get the right dwell. If the nubs are worn too much, you will never get the points to work right.
Dwell being right gets the coil charge right every time it fires, and you can see problems with the dwell jumping if there are wear problems.
Examine your points to see if they are smooth on both sides. Any little 'peaks' or craters in them indicate metal transfer from one side to the other and has to be filed off with crocus cloth or a super fine 'points file'.
Replace the condensor. It can be acting up. You do have one inside the distributor, right? It is a silver cylindrical thin with one wire connected to the points.
Your ballast should ONLY be a 0.6 or 0.8 ohm one with the stock distributor and points, or the Mopar electronic system. The OEM was 0.6 ohms. MSD has a 0.8 ohm ballast that is sold in a lot of parts stores. If that cannot be found, then use a BWD RU19 which is a close as you will get in a cheap, easy to find ballast.
BTW, I raced many 1,000's of miles on points. If you know what you are doing, they work. But an HEI system is better than points or a Pertronix in terms of energy to start the combustion process. But none of that will cause your problems.
IF YOU HAVE GONE THE PERTRONIX SYSTEM:
There is no setting of dwell in that system. Set the reluctor gap. Use a 1.5 ohm coil with a ballast, and a 3 ohm coil if no ballast. The ballasted system gives a hotter starting spark.... if you use the right ballast.
IF YOU ARE GOING TO THE MOPAR ELECTRONIC DISTRIBUTOR: Use a 1.5 ohm coil and the correct value of ballast (see above).
And of course, it can still be in the carb, or valve lash (as above).... etc. Or the wiring to the ignition system..... ignition key problems or bulkhead connector problems.
Can you better explain 'acts like a butt head' for an engine? LOL
Dwell being right gets the coil charge right every time it fires, and you can see problems with the dwell jumping if there are wear problems.
Examine your points to see if they are smooth on both sides. Any little 'peaks' or craters in them indicate metal transfer from one side to the other and has to be filed off with crocus cloth or a super fine 'points file'.
Replace the condensor. It can be acting up. You do have one inside the distributor, right? It is a silver cylindrical thin with one wire connected to the points.
Your ballast should ONLY be a 0.6 or 0.8 ohm one with the stock distributor and points, or the Mopar electronic system. The OEM was 0.6 ohms. MSD has a 0.8 ohm ballast that is sold in a lot of parts stores. If that cannot be found, then use a BWD RU19 which is a close as you will get in a cheap, easy to find ballast.
BTW, I raced many 1,000's of miles on points. If you know what you are doing, they work. But an HEI system is better than points or a Pertronix in terms of energy to start the combustion process. But none of that will cause your problems.
IF YOU HAVE GONE THE PERTRONIX SYSTEM:
There is no setting of dwell in that system. Set the reluctor gap. Use a 1.5 ohm coil with a ballast, and a 3 ohm coil if no ballast. The ballasted system gives a hotter starting spark.... if you use the right ballast.
IF YOU ARE GOING TO THE MOPAR ELECTRONIC DISTRIBUTOR: Use a 1.5 ohm coil and the correct value of ballast (see above).
And of course, it can still be in the carb, or valve lash (as above).... etc. Or the wiring to the ignition system..... ignition key problems or bulkhead connector problems.
Can you better explain 'acts like a butt head' for an engine? LOL
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