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rick_rawker

rick_rawker

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Location
NEVADA, Texas
I have tried every shade tree trick I know of on GT.
1964 273 4 bbl 4 speed.
New points adjusted to .017 , and again.
Solid lifters , adjusted 10 intake , 20 exhaust.
( I guess those arms line up with spark and exhaust ports , and , does the gauge need to clear it ALL. Or just the 'edge'. )
Sounds really good until a trip to the store , then it pops and putters and acts like a butt head.
I need to get this right for my son Cody.
...just don't know how to proceed.
(Cody is my son who had the terrible accident last year and wants to have freedom to go again)
Thanks in advance guys.

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Did you check the ignition timing? Could you be having a fuel delivery problem like a plugged filter?

Valves on SB Mopar are E I I E E I I E .
 
69_340_GTS said:
Did you check the ignition timing? Could you be having a fuel delivery problem like a plugged filter?

Valves on SB Mopar are E I I E E I I E .
Click to expand...
Thanks, yeh I got the exhaust and intake right , seems straight forward.
The see through filter has plenty of fuel. Carb is a Eldebrock 650.
I adjusted timing by ear.
 
I guess I will check compression tomorrow , make sure my new spark plugs and wires are firing and look for cracks in the dist.cap.
Already checked firing order 3 times.
What the hell does a ballast resistor do ?
 
Here's a page from the FSM on a 66 273. They state .013 on the intake and .020 on the exhaust. I'd rather have them a tad loose than too tight. Make sure to adjust them to specs while the engine is hot. I always go all the way through on the feeler gauge.

upload_2016-9-12_22-34-50.png
 
I used a Pertronix Igniter II (in place of the points) and a FlameThrower coil instead of going full electronic. Made a huge difference and wasn't any trouble to install.
 
Points should be set with a dwell meter. It's very easy to get the feeler gauge crooked. Should be around 27 or so degrees of dwell.
 
rick_rawker said:
What does a ballast resistor do ?
Click to expand...

lower your voltage to the coil from 12 to about 6
(if I'm not mistaking, when you crank it, the ballast resistor is bypassed, giving you full voltage to the coil, but with the key in the "run" position it drop the voltage to extend coil life)

and the ballast resistors are a wear item
 
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diymirage said:
lower your voltage to the coil from 12 to about 6
(if I'm not mistaking, when you crank it, the ballast resistor is bypassed, giving you full voltage to the coil, but with the key in the "run" position it drop the voltage to extend coil life)

and the ballast resistors are a wear item
Click to expand...
Got it. And , Cheap enough.
Thank you !
 
rick_rawker said:
I REALLY think so also.
I have an electronic distributor to fit it , do you know what kind of 'gadgets' I need to go with it ?
Wiring ?
( I get paid on Friday and am broke by bills Saturday morn. )
Click to expand...

Do you just have the electronic distributor?

Then you will need the two pin ballast resistor to go with electronic ignition, an ECU box, and the wiring harness for the box...

There are 5 wires on the harness.

Two obviously go to the two way plug for the distributor...
The blue wire goes to the input side of the ballast resistor (I like to use a piggyback connector for easy install and removal if ever needed...)..
The black wire goes to the negative terminal on the coil...
The green wire is for 4-pin ballast resistors and you just clip it off and throw it away... (Or save the wire for future use...)
​
Here's what the harness looks like:

Mopar Performance Control Unit Wiring Harness Kit

Here's what the complete kit comes with. You can look at the picture and see what you need:

Mancini Racing Electronic Distributor Conversion Kit

​
 
Spec is .013 intake and .021 exhaust, running hot. Feeler gage to go through at smallest opening. Or use a +.001 as a no go gage. That is a .014 on intake and .022 on exhaust. I agree with RRR on the dwell tach. Are you running the original dual point cast iron distributor?
 
krazykuda said:
Do you just have the electronic distributor?

Then you will need the two pin ballast resistor to go with electronic ignition, an ECU box, and the wiring harness for the box...

There are 5 wires on the harness.

Two obviously go to the two way plug for the distributor...
The blue wire goes to the input side of the ballast resistor (I like to use a piggyback connector for easy install and removal if ever needed...)..
The black wire goes to the negative terminal on the coil...
The green wire is for 4-pin ballast resistors and you just clip it off and throw it away... (Or save the wire for future use...)
​
Here's what the harness looks like:

Mopar Performance Control Unit Wiring Harness Kit

Here's what the complete kit comes with. You can look at the picture and see what you need:

Mancini Racing Electronic Distributor Conversion Kit

​
Click to expand...
66fyssh said:
Here's a page from the FSM on a 66 273. They state .013 on the intake and .020 on the exhaust. I'd rather have them a tad loose than too tight. Make sure to adjust them to specs while the engine is hot. I always go all the way through on the feeler gauge.

View attachment 1714967636
Click to expand...
thanks, will readjust
You are cool to post me !
 
image.jpg
krazykuda said:
Do you just have the electronic distributor?

Then you will need the two pin ballast resistor to go with electronic ignition, an ECU box, and the wiring harness for the box...

There are 5 wires on the harness.

Two obviously go to the two way plug for the distributor...
The blue wire goes to the input side of the ballast resistor (I like to use a piggyback connector for easy install and removal if ever needed...)..
The black wire goes to the negative terminal on the coil...
The green wire is for 4-pin ballast resistors and you just clip it off and throw it away... (Or save the wire for future use...)
​
Here's what the harness looks like:

Mopar Performance Control Unit Wiring Harness Kit

Here's what the complete kit comes with. You can look at the picture and see what you need:

Mancini Racing Electronic Distributor Conversion Kit

​
Click to expand...
SOUNDS EASY EVEN FOR ME !
I am going this route for now.
Need to find a box and harness.
I do have the Accell Distributor.
 
Might be nothing but NON magnetic feeler gauge for setting points?
Im sure my 67 273 is set at 0.020 intake and exhaust. Comp cams cam n lifters tho.
Shaft tight on distributor?

Nice looking car!
 
4spdragtop said:
Might be nothing but NON magnetic feeler gauge for setting points?
Im sure my 67 273 is set at 0.020 intake and exhaust. Comp cams cam n lifters tho.
Shaft tight on distributor?

Nice looking car!
Click to expand...
My thoughts,Steve... (Brass feeler gauge,IIRC..Have set reluctor gap,with steel feeler ..It runs...)
O.P.: I would personally,would start with: Post 9 : accuracy on valve adjustment...MANDATORY.(my opinion,I don't have a clue,on how you adjust valves..) Post 12: check condition of points,and learn to adjust them...
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...pvqHf_ZsX069MBpDA&sig2=1eiQ4Y67U1Pgv5g26q5KgQ
Get an actual dwell meter & timing light... Borrow ,buy one,invite a buddy who has these tools,fix it...Electronic ignition swap is nice, doesn't fix the root problems...(just my 2 pesos valued ,response....)
 
image.jpeg
Abodybomber said:
My thoughts,Steve... (Brass feeler gauge,IIRC..Have set reluctor gap,with steel feeler ..It runs...)
O.P.: I would personally,would start with: Post 9 : accuracy on valve adjustment...MANDATORY.(my opinion,I don't have a clue,on how you adjust valves..) Post 12: check condition of points,and learn to adjust them...
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...pvqHf_ZsX069MBpDA&sig2=1eiQ4Y67U1Pgv5g26q5KgQ
Get an actual dwell meter & timing light... Borrow ,buy one,invite a buddy who has these tools,fix it...Electronic ignition swap is nice, doesn't fix the root problems...(just my 2 pesos valued ,response....)
Click to expand...
Wow.
Big great response.
Will seek out root of problem.
I offer you back 4 pesos valued my new friend.
Thank You.
 
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