getting close to firing

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MoparOrNokar

HammerTime
Joined
Aug 17, 2014
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Location
Flint, Michigan
Almost have everything buttoned up to start this new engine. Fuel reg and a couple more wires. Man i hate the wait

360 +.04
Stock eddy heads
Flat tops
Balanced
Xe274h
Comp roller rockers
Rpm intake
750 holley
1 5/8 headers
2 3/4 exhaust with homemade cutouts
8.25 with 3.91 gear
25" tire
727

20160503_232212.jpg


20160503_232132.jpg
 
I know how you feel as I am pretty much at the same point you are with my new motor.
Good luck with it.
 
I think there are a bunch of us all at about the same point - give or take a bolt or two.. I just ordered what I am hoping is the last few pieces I need to cross my I's and dot my Tees... chomping at the bit to hear it run!! I hope we ALL have good luck with 'em! BTW - looks GOOD!
 
I built a very similar combo in 1999. I had that exact fan. It was not up to the task,even; with a shroud,and a hi-flo Milodon pump,and a Hi-flo stat.,and a 26inch OEM A/C rad. It wouldn't have any of it.An OEM, 7blade A/C fan with a Ford thermo-clutch has been doing it for me since then.
During cam break-in be very careful. Keep a running garden-hose handy, with a helper manning it, and the IR gun.Get the rpm up ASAP, check for leaks;especially fuel, give the dizzy a twist until the rpm maxs out. Forget about the exact timing until later.
Then relax a bit, for twenty minutes.
The #1 thing is to not have fuel leaks. If you have to shut it down, do it!

All the best to you and everyone else, during the break-in, and afterwards, keep it between the ditches;Yahoo! I love my 367 cuber.

BTW;you do realize that you are running a double bypass;right? I think that won't work with that fan. I'm not even sure it will work with any fan.You are sending a double helping of hot water back into the pump, for a second trip. And a third. And a fourth. As many times as it takes, until the stat opens up. And also after that.With the vehicle stopped,the Eddies and Headers put a tremendous amount of heat under the hood.Then without a shroud,and the hood closed, there is no way that itty-bitty fan can move it all out, in addition to trying to pull air through the rad.You will find travelling at under about 30mph very frustrating and dangerous, as you keep checking the temp gauge, instead of watching traffic.I'd say trust me on this, but it sounds condescending, and that's the last thing in the world I want to sound like.
I ended up restricting my OEM bypass,quite a bit,to achieve good cooling. She ran pretty hot for awhile, but the KB-107s survived.I now run it at 205*F. I have had Zero overheating issues since I pulled that fan off, and made those,above, mods.I really, really wanted to run that fan.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
I built a very similar combo in 1999. I had that exact fan. It was not up to the task,even; with a shroud,and a hi-flo Milodon pump,and a Hi-flo stat.,and a 26inch OEM A/C rad. It wouldn't have any of it.An OEM, 7blade A/C fan with a Ford thermo-clutch has been doing it for me since then.
During cam break-in be very careful. Keep a running garden-hose handy, with a helper manning it, and the IR gun.Get the rpm up ASAP, check for leaks;especially fuel, give the dizzy a twist until the rpm maxs out. Forget about the exact timing until later.
Then relax a bit, for twenty minutes.
The #1 thing is to not have fuel leaks. If you have to shut it down, do it!

All the best to you and everyone else, during the break-in, and afterwards, keep it between the ditches;Yahoo! I love my 367 cuber.
Click to expand...

No breakin for mine. (roller) :D
 
Never just grab the distributor and give it a twist. The correct way to set timing on any new start up is to set the crank where you want TOTAL timing to be set. For start up I usually add 3-5 degrees MORE total. On my last start up, I set the crank at 40* BTDC. Then you install the distributor and make the rotor point to #1 on the cap with ALL the advance take up (hold th body and turn the rotor as far clockwise as it will go) and snug it down. You will now be within a degree or two of what you want and no guess work.

Fill the float bowls with fuel before you start it. The crank should turn twice and it better be running. If not stop and figure out what you have wrong.
 
Hey AJ/FormS, not to hijack but how much did you end up restricting your bypass? I ask because I was thinking of doing that as well to get as much coolant through the radiator, I have seen some blocked off all together and drilled holes in the T stat for a bypass, I don't think I need to go that far. I have no heater core hooked up and I capped that off instead of making another bypass.
 
The drilled hole in the stat is just to help bleed air out during the rad filling procedure. I serves no useful bypass function.Blocking or capping the heater hose circuit is the correct thing to do, if you are not running a heater.
-I kept the heater system as a back-up. If the engine ever got hot, I figured I'd just turn the fan on high and push some air thru that core, sucking heat out that way.Knowing I had the back-up, I restricted the regular bypass quite a bit. IIRC, I shoved a short brass pipe in there, and IMA guessing it cut about 60% of the cross-section out.During the hottest days, I clamp the coolant hoses, so I don't fry my toes, cuz at speed a lot of hot air comes thru that core.
-I don't think it's a good idea to block it completely, cuz that would dead-head the pump, and the heads would get pretty hot real quick. This might lead to localized boiling in the heads, with unknown to me, results. Like water hammer, and cavitation and stuff.
I have aluminum heads, so they really suck the heat out. Once the stat opens, Ima guessing the bypass circuit kinda slows right down.With iron heads, Ima thinking Mopar is way smarter than me, and I would leave the bypass fully functioning.
 
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Man that looks good, I love that feeling before first startup. Roller cam makes it so nice.
 
yellow rose said:
Never just grab the distributor and give it a twist. The correct way to set timing on any new start up is to set the crank where you want TOTAL timing to be set. For start up I usually add 3-5 degrees MORE total. On my last start up, I set the crank at 40* BTDC. Then you install the distributor and make the rotor point to #1 on the cap with ALL the advance take up (hold th body and turn the rotor as far clockwise as it will go) and snug it down. You will now be within a degree or two of what you want and no guess work.

Fill the float bowls with fuel before you start it. The crank should turn twice and it better be running. If not stop and figure out what you have wrong.
Click to expand...

Well that's the way I have done it too, but that's kindof complicated,for a newbe, that is already sheit-scared of puking his cam. My offering is easier and faster, and gives her exactly what she wants, not what I think she may want, and no timing lite is required during this critical time, so long as it is reasonably close before start-up.
 
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