OH... something else about banjo fittings on the hoses (the part that attach to the caliper) they typically have a flat side that butts up against the caliper where it mounts to prevent it from rotating.
Getting confused
- Thread starter DentalDart
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When you say bellows are you talking about for the rubber grommet?
Not the rubber o ring on the brake pedal push rod but the acordian black rubber with the oval / diamond shaped flat plate with two holes photo in your post #24
Oh yea the little rubber boot/grommet/black accordion thingy
ALSO ALSO... Your new master cyl does not have the holes for the bellows to attach to said:
What are those and where do I get one?
They are on most of the cars I strip 73 and newer with manual brakes. Jims brake parts may have them. I don't see them on his site but he may have them now. Pretty common on manual brake cars and trucks from 72 on up until they went with 2 bolt aluminum master cylinders. I may have a bunch more if you can't find one
Mopar Brake Parts | Jim's Auto Parts
Mopar Brake Parts | Jim's Auto Parts
Thanks I'll check around for one!
ragtopfury
Well-Known Member
A side note here based on that pic of the proportioning valve from the Diplomat..... Be careful laying stuff on top of your battery. Looks like it was on top of the positive terminal. You do NOT want the thing to ground out on the negative terminal or the hold down or the inner fender......
It was moved right after the picture,it was a rookie mistake on my end from not paying attention.
Thanks for the heads up, I'm glad the the guys on FABO see the little things like this. Small things like this are not only important safety reminders but also could save a car from big problems.
Safety issues related to fuel and battery can get out of control very fast.
Unbelievably fast.
Fuego, mas grande!
Must respect the power of both to eff you up royally.
Ok ok let's let Doc off the hook.
Let he who is without sin (ie. putting things on our batteries) cast the first stone!
Let he who is without sin (ie. putting things on our batteries) cast the first stone!
Doc took some suggestions. Doc also didnt take one (yet) havent found the plastic backing piece to the MC, used a little gasket seal on it for now until I get one.
I had some help though.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
The little boot on the pushrod isn't really needed. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. Unless you plan on driving in the dust all day long.
Not at all! I think this case has spent enough time driving in the dust and down dirt roads.
Ps I just looked at your car for the first time! Pretty! The yellow is a slick color. There are actually 2 yellow gts cars listed right now (1 is a rotisserie restoration clone)
There is a rubber piece the goes on that rod to hold it in the master. Make sure you get a new one or the rod can come out and you will lose your brakes. This is a very important partGot it out
Yes I've heard of bench bleeding. This is my bench. It's more comfortable to sit on the ground right here than to be standing right now
View attachment 1715459309
This is the cheapest I found them besides someone that is selling cut hose. the listing I posted is Ebay get them there do not get the cut hose
Mopar Manual Brake Push-Rod Retainer, Bushing, Clip, Rubber Grommet | eBay
Jims brake parts has them but the cost is over $60 as seen below
Mopar Brake Parts | Jim's Auto Parts
NEW!
KQ-BB1A Master Cylinder Push Rod SEAL (Goes on the plunger rod that goes through the KQ-BB1 boot) Various Make & Model $ 64.95
Are you talking about the seal right here? If so I have those taken care of and the pushrod is secured within the MC, and no I didnt use 2 washers, just 1. But yes it would not stay in there without a washer which would/could have been bad news if I or anyone else installed the pushrod without one.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
The o-ring, or even the factory rubber thing, will not really hold that push rod in. It's always going to be fairly easy to pull out. But the pedal should not be able to travel up far enough so as for it to be able to pull it out. If the pedal can go up that far, something else isn't right.
That rubber pictured above in the Ebay ad is not a seal. It is a retainer. The little groove you see in the retainer is so it collapses to get it in the master cylinder They can only be used once. You put that in the master cylinder and then push the rod in using dawn regular brand dishwashing liquid the same Dawn you rub down the inside of slicks with to seal them. Any other lube ruins it. It will rot . Once the retainer is installed properly you should not be able to pull the push rod out without extreme force. Remember once you pull this rod out the retainer is junk you need a new one. Ebay is the cheapest I buy them in bulk. They are not pure rubber like a hose they are a polymer
I have seen them come out when you have to pump the brakes. It only takes a little and it jams . And guess what? rock solid pedal and no brakes.
This guy changed his Aspen to manual brakes years ago. He thought the same thing The stop light switch would hold it in. He killed a 50 year old guy turning into his driveway.
I towed the car below from the scene and had to testify as to what happened to his brakes. That part above is a lock ring and its life is one time being used . Once you take it out its junk. It is not rubber like the scrap the guy at Carlisle is selling . The one above has that groove for a reason without that groove you would not get it in. Its pretty solid.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
I understand what you're saying. I really can't see the push rod on my car coming out. I'll try to make it come out, and see if it will (when the car isn't moving). The other thing is... it seems that most aftermarket master cylinders do not have a groove/recess in them for the retainer to pop in to. I know the Willwood I have doesn't, and the push rod is held in only by friction between the rubber ring and the I.D. of the piston.
If you have a full solid pedal I wouldn't have enough travel. You lose a little peddle and have to pump them your in trouble. I am telling this from experience from many years of working on and towing mopars. What I am telling you is a fact I don't care what you believe or what aftermarket masters have. Could be they were designed for later model cars with Power brakes. Jims brakes gets over $60 for that little retainer lock. wonder why. Not because you don't need it
Scroll to the bottom and check PN# KQ-BB1A.. While scrolling down read some info on Masters
Mopar Brake Parts | Jim's Auto Parts
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