Given the choice...u joints

[64longroof]

Hey gang,
Have a loud driveshaft speed chirp....cannot feel any trunion side play and is well lubed. Rear joint still lubed but shows some wear, pictured... those ridges on bearing surfaces (2 opposite bearings) are petty deep. Have hard time imagining this wear would cause chirping if lubed .....could output shaft bushing chirp?
For the replacement u joint, Would you suggest buying a $25, 2yr warranty u joint (Master Pro) of unknown national origin, vs. using a very likely US made u joint with some wear, as shown? Pics 2 and 3? Can barely feel ridges on bearing surfaces. Given this car is a slant six, not built up, and goes 2000 miles a year? Thanks all.

 

[ch1ll]

That is shot. I wouldn't run that in my enemies car.

 

[Locomotion]

Get some Spicer U-joints and be done with it instead of playing Russian Roulette. Some are made here and some are made overseas, but you can check the "country of origin" on the box or with the manufacturer.

Gotta remember that letting a car sit or used very little can be worse than using it often - especially since the damage has already started!

 

[RustyRatRod]

That is shot. I wouldn't run that in my enemies car.

I agree. I want my enemies to die slower than that.

 

[junkyardhero]

that's pooched. throw a new one in there, you're this far in and that's cheap insurance.

 

[RustyRatRod]

that's pooched. throw a new one in there, you're this far in and that's cheap insurance.

Unless he uses a cheap u-joint. That Detroit was a goodun.

 

[T2R9]

Spicer solids are my goto u-joint.

https://www.amazon.com/Spicer-5-789X-U-Joint-Kit/dp/B00DOH33JQ?tag=fabo03-20

 

[dadsbee]

Spicer... day in.. day out!

 

[64longroof]

Thanks for your unanimous support for replacing with new. And that could cause loud chirp, even if joint isn't dry?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thanks for your unanimous support for replacing with new. And that could cause loud chirp, even if joint isn't dry?

Yes sir it's possible. Wear affects the angle of the cups in relation to the posts on the joint. So if they're misaligned from wear, it might squeak regardless of lubrication. But of course, this is diagnosis over the internet for free, a you're gettin what you pay for. lol

That said, "I" would go to a heavy truck parts shop to get a known good brand. Auto parts stores are sinful about reboxing and I can just about gaurantee that you will not get the brand you want. You might get the correct brand BOX. lol

 

[64longroof]

Thanks Rusty for tip. You mean Orally Auto and erogenous zone are not on your A list? Carcas Quest?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thanks Rusty for tip. You mean Orally Auto and erogenous zone are not on your A list? Carcas Quest?

Yeah maybe for stuff like chemicals and oil.....although lately I've been getting both from Amazon, because the prices at O'Reilly are gettin on up there.

 

[Scody21]

Spicer - get the ones without the grease fitting, aka as non-serviceable

 

[JDMopar]

Spicer - get the ones without the grease fitting, aka as non-serviceable

Why would you not want to use a serviceable u joint?

 

[Locomotion]

Non-servicable joints are usually used in race and XHD applications because they tend to be "solid" (not cross-drilled) and stronger but nothing wrong with them in all applications. I don't know if they might last longer wear-wize if you don't plan to ever grease them anyway.

A servicable/greasable u-joint with the fitting in the cap would be my choice over one with the fitting in the body. Reason being is that the grease fitting hole weakens the u-joint. If using one with a grease fitting in the body between the caps, it's best to install the joint with the grease fitting hole in compression in between the caps, as the load is applied from the trans to the driveshaft and pinion yoke. That way the torque isn't trying to spread the u-joint apart at its weakest location.

 

[64longroof]

Hey gang,
Have a loud driveshaft speed chirp....cannot feel any trunion side play and is well lubed. Rear joint still lubed but shows some wear, pictured... those ridges on bearing surfaces (2 opposite bearings) are petty deep. Have hard time imagining this wear would cause chirping if lubed .....could output shaft bushing chirp?
For the replacement u joint, Would you suggest buying a $25, 2yr warranty u joint (Master Pro) of unknown national origin, vs. using a very likely US made u joint with some wear, as shown? Pics 2 and 3? Can barely feel ridges on bearing surfaces. Given this car is a slant six, not built up, and goes 2000 miles a year? Thanks all.

View attachment 1716412871

View attachment 1716412872

 

[64longroof]

Installing a nice Dana joint didn't eliminate chirp. So I made a video of the car passing by me with the tire marked with stripe of tape. I determined that the chirp is twice per tire revolution. Also determined it is only on passenger side, and it is not present going backwards. The chirp is present at any fwd speed, increasing rate with increasing speed. Goes away when tires off ground. Diff is full. I'm thinking axle bearing, but it's such a steady, unvarying cheep-cheep. Thoughts?