Glue?

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What is the best glue to use now? Been out of it for awhile and not sure if the orange tube testors glue is still good to use? Thanks.
That's a loaded question. Everyone has what they like. Kinda like asking what's the best wheels I use red testers

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Anything toluene does the trick on polystyrene.
 
I think the Testors is now Toluene free. Wasnt the old stuff (1980) blue?
 
What is the best glue to use now? Been out of it for awhile and not sure if the orange tube testors glue is still good to use? Thanks.

There is a shootout on Utube and the glue that came out on top was a Mr. Hobby Japanese liquid, lot of people the the Tamiya ultra thin, I have never seen that Faller stuff Circlepilot shows, wonder where he got that, like to give it a try.
 
If sniffin it won't make you have two headed babies it ain't no good.
 
I used solvent cement. It is very thin like lacquer thinner. It does not glue any thing but plastic. You can wash paint off of your hands with it. Once you glue plastic together with it you won't get it apart . Also no parts trimming it melts part together. Chrome parts must be cleaned for it to work.

I would have my mom save her diabetic syringes for me . If you just inject a little on one edge it flows around the whole part. They make a bottle as the glue pictured above. I also have one of them. For use on bare plastic it molds parts together. For smaller painted parts use a good brand super glue or the glue mentioned above. I like the solvent cement because you can hold parts together and just add a tab to the edge and it flows around what you touch with the needle.

Fill the needle once and throw it away after its depressed. When you go to pull the plunger out the end rubber is melted off the end.
 
I used solvent cement. It is very thin like lacquer thinner. It does not glue any thing but plastic. You can wash paint off of your hands with it. Once you glue plastic together with it you won't get it apart . Also no parts trimming it melts part together. Chrome parts must be cleaned for it to work.

I would have my mom save her diabetic syringes for me . If you just inject a little on one edge it flows around the whole part. They make a bottle as the glue pictured above. I also have one of them. For use on bare plastic it molds parts together. For smaller painted parts use a good brand super glue or the glue mentioned above. I like the solvent cement because you can hold parts together and just add a tab to the edge and it flows around what you touch with the needle.

Fill the needle once and throw it away after its depressed. When you go to pull the plunger out the end rubber is melted off the end.

Yep, pretty much the same stuff, just a fancy name and made overseas, it's ultra thin though.
 
Yep, pretty much the same stuff, just a fancy name and made overseas, it's ultra thin though.
I get it on line or a Lehigh Valley Plastic in Allentown. comes in a 2 pint can. I also use it to repair dash clusters.

This old dash was repaired many years ago with it replacing the radio hole cutting one from a standard radio cover. Cut it a tad big and hold it against apply the solvent on the corners and it melts its way in place. This was done back when you couldn't buy the aftermarkets. I also used it to change one from standard heat to A/C

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There is a shootout on Utube and the glue that came out on top was a Mr. Hobby Japanese liquid, lot of people the the Tamiya ultra thin, I have never seen that Faller stuff Circlepilot shows, wonder where he got that, like to give it a try.
I got it off of the internet. It's not a CA adhesive, and is just thick enough to control the amount you use. The steel tube applicator really makes a build a lot easier.
 
I forgot I use this for my windows and clear parts like headlights or tail lights it drys clear. As long as you don't get crazy with it

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3M used to sell a clear "Plastic & Emblem" adhesive, it smelled just like Airplane Glue.
 
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