Goin V-8

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RobbAdams

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A Member of my local Mopar Club, recently converted his 360 powered D200 Camper Special to a Cummins. He has offered the motor, (22,000 origional Miles) to me for $500. We are still negotiating a price for the 727.


Any tips or advice for transplanting into my early A-Body. I have heard that only certain exhaust manifolds will fit.

I plan to overhaul the motor, before putting it in my car, as I would imagine the gaskets and stuff would be pretty dried out with the lack of use.

Plans for motor include a rpm airgap intake, and a 4bbl carb (Suggestions). Some sort of new Cam (Suggestions) I am hopefull that the heads do not need too much work, and that minimal machining is required!!!

I drive my car every day so i need a drivable motor, I am planning to take it to the track on friday nights, and at the odd show, so performance is important too.

My wife.......er Budget dictates that I can only spend in about 5-700 dollar increments. per month.

Robb
 
Robb you can go with schmacher mounts or any stock replacment mounts. I beleive I still have my stock 273 exhaust manifolds at home, so you could have them, but it would not be the best for performance on a 360. I know a couple of people have put magnum exhaust manifilds on early a bodies but they are from a dakota and not sure what years.
I think for cam selction, it would be best to find out what comp that 360 is running first.
The other thing is, you will have to mod your trans tunnel a bit for a 727, but no real big deal just something to think about.
Good luck with the swap.
 
Center link for a V8. Throttle cable. 45degree oil filter adapter. And a few other odds and ends. Trans tunnel will need work for the 727, along with cutting down the driveshaft. If you have the 7 1/4 rear that will die with rough treatment quick.
 
You don't need the angle oil filter adapter. I have a V8 and don't have one.

Early 273 motor mounts, they look like this. http://www.earlyabodyforum.com/board/messages/2/456.html To mount a 360 they require a bit of modification, no big deal.

They're hard to find and expensive ($100) you'd might be better just getting the Schumacher ones.

You can go with 273 exhaust manifolds, the Durango manifolds (require some shims I've read), the 340 HP manifolds, Spitfire headers, TTI headers or old Dougs headers. Read about it all here http://www.earlyabodyforum.com/board/messages/394/418.html
 
I am going to pick up the motor, next weekend (July 28th) and am planning to do a "refresh" of the motor. Plans so far include:
-replace all gaskets
-install 4bbl aluminium Manifold
-re-ring all pistons
-install new Cam (Suggestions?)
-New Timing set
-New lifters/Springs
-4 bbl carb (Suggestions?)
-Aluminum Water pump
-new oil pump $ pick-up assmbley
-all new bolts (ARP?)
the motor is '75 block and has 22,000 original Miles, so I am hoping it will not need any machine work. I am planning to buy the 727 as well.

What else should I be doing while the block is apart?
What cam would you suggest for a daily driver, that will perhaps go to the track a few times a year (perhaps every friday if I get into it)
Also what intake/Carb combo would be good for this type of use?
 
Robb, congrads on a V-8 upgrade. The l;ack of suggestions mostly comes from the lack of info. Lets start with whats really missing.

What rear end size do you have?
What ratio do you have or want to end up with?
Are you willing to swap out converters?

I can suggest a very braod suggestion on what cam to use. But as far as a true dual purpose cars intake and carb. I can honestly say I have to say the best deal combo I have found for myself is a Edel. RPM (Or equal) and a 650 cfm carb (Maker of your choice) like a Edel. AVS or Holley VS like the Avenger set up.

The rear ratio will help find a cam for this. It can be a mello cam to a lil'large one/big small one.
Let me give you an example of a pair of Comp cams that could fit the bill here;

A small performance cam like the 268 Hyd. (218 @ .050) w/.454 lift for better than stock cam specs and a nice upgrade or;

Something like a XE274. 274/286 (230/236 @ .050) w/.488-.491 lift will really help pick it up .

Theres a real decent spread here on the cams performance and how it acts in the engine between the 2 cams.
 
OK I will have to figure out the ratio's. Car currently tops out a 90 MPH with my 904. It is an 8.25 rear end.shifts from 1-2 at about 25-30 mph? Not sure if this helps??


Robb
 
LO< not realy, but that was funny. When you have the time, crawl under the car and see if there is still a tag attached to a rear end cover bolt. scrap away the grease to find one. The ratio is stamped on there.
(Also, not for nothin, changing the rears oil is more likely a good thing to do because it probably has never been done. You can also find the gear ratio stamped on the ring gear. Rotate the wheel to see where it is stamped on the ring.)
 
Stick with a 904, the trans tunnel will have to be modified to fit a 727. Plus you can use your existing driveline. With your budget you should be able to get mounts, exhaust manifolds, radiator and trans so you can at least put it in. Then add the other things like bolt on parts for the motor as you go. Being the motor will have the later style water pump use a later style '70 up radiator.


Chuck
 
I realized that yours is a slant, so yes, find a v8 one. Those things are a lot tougher than most people think.

Chuck
 
While the motor is apart flush the bejesus out of the water passages, and replace the freeze plugs. Your going to have to figure out what way your going to go with the throttle and kickdown works to. If you go linkage kickdown you can piece together somthin or search for the right one with a 4bbl. Same goes with the throttle. I looked for a while for original stuff but wound up with the Lokar stuff.
 
you're in calgary,i'm in coaldale...
if you want it i have a 904 with the b&m flexplate for the 360.....

if you want it just drive to coaldale and pick it up,freebee!!!!
 
More of a question than advice..... since this motor is out of a D2000 camper special is it considered a truck motor or car motor and what oil pan does it have? Will he need to change to a center sump? I don't know the answer but thought I would throw this question out there so you guys can answer it. It would really suck to do all the work and the oil pan not work......... Sorry if this is a dumb question.
 
19duster74, that isn't a dumb question at all. As a matter of fact, you probably just saved Rob some frustration down the road in his swap. He will need the center sump type oil pan to fit the "A" body chassis.

muller, that's the spirit I love to see here at FABO, one person that 'has', helping out a fellow enthuasist who 'needs'. KUDOS!!
 
anything to help out,for the oilpan and pickup...pm dartnut,i think he has several,and he lives in lethbridge,so that's close by
 
An engine is an engine in the MoPar camp. If it came out of a truck or car, theres nothing to worry about engine wise. Oil pans are your biggest concern. Exhaust manifolds would be next. (Just for proper pipe placement.
 
he lives in calgary,there is a mopac store in calgary....the flowtech hedders ar only 125....thats what i paid for them....

and for the oilpan,i converted my own,i took a 318 oilpan and welded the rear piece from a truck iolpan in,still doesn't leak

oh,and i allso have the driveshaft




come and get it
 
SWEEEEEEEEET MULLER you Rule!!!!!

Please don't throw rocks at my GMC Truck!!

I Probably would not be able to make it out there until close to the end of august as aug 4th,11th, and 18th are all the big mopar only shows in Alberta (Edmonton, Red Deer, then Calgary)

If this is a problem, I could skip the red-deer show.

Robb
 
As for the oil pan/Sump issue. If I obtain a center sump oil pan, It will just bolt on and problem solved right? I gues I would also need a different pickup? I was planning on the summit racing pump and pickup combo, unless someone says otherwise.

Robb
 
hey if youre goin to the mopar meeting on the 4-5 ,i can take everything with me...it's a little too far to drive witk the dart,so i'm going to trailer it!!!!,try to get a hold off tom (DARTNUT) if he has an oilpan and pickup i'll allso bring it over
 
woooo- wooooo Motor is being dropped of at my house tomorrow evening. :burnout:

Planning to have it in by LABOUR DAY!

I will take lot of pics, and probably start a new Thread either in Engine, or Performance forum.

Plans include a new cam, 4 BBL conversion, all new gaskets, The rest will be determined afer I open her up!

Previous owner swears the motor has only 22,000 origional miles, So I am hopeing no machining will be required.
 
Delays in getting the motor from the seller cause me to sit and dream/Resarch all day long!

According to litrature I have read so far, the motor was only 180HP from the factory (2bbl). I want to be able to run it in my local Street ET Class, the rules State:

Street ET

The quickest time allowable in this class is 13.00 seconds. A wide variety of vehicles from trucks to sub-compacts can be found in the starting field. There are no electronics allowed; however, racers are allowed line locks. Racers in this class often drive the car they will be racing to the track. This is a dial-your-own class run on a 5-tenths full tree.


I did make contact with my cars previous owner, and he thinks the rear in the car was a " 320 something" Will this help with determining the best course of action for my build? It is an 8.25, and I am planning on using another 904. I think this 904/8.25 should be fine in a 13.5 ish car no? I do still plan to daily drive this car, so reliability is a requirement as well.
 
Since you aren't planning on replacing pistons this will be a low compression motor and you can't go very big with the cam or you will kill off all your low end power.

Something like a Comp XE262H (less than 220 degrees @ 0.050 in any case) would be about as big as you should go. Also since it's a mild build a large 4bbl is not necessary. A 600 CFM carb more than adequate.
 
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