Good brands for ignition and other electical

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dartley

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I am looking to purchase some ignition parts for my Duster - electronic ig.

I notice that NAPA carries mostly Echlin.

My local Parts Authority carries Blue Streak and Intermotor for coils and STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS for the reluctor and pick up coil.

What's the general consensus on what's good?
 
Standard Motor Products is my first choice normally. Their "performance line" is Blue streak and typically has thicker parts adn better contracts, etc. Also, the Std Ignition control module is a better choice than the MP Orange boxes...
 
moper said:
Also, the Std Ignition control module is a better choice than the MP Orange boxes...
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Really!? But the Orange box is considered performance and good for 6000 rpm.

Oddly though, it's my orange box that just went and I replaced it with a backup. My electronic ignition test unit (the blue diagnostics unit if you happen to know what I mean) tells me that the backup unit is good but I also need to replace my pickup coil - even thought the car seems fine now.

So, I plan to buy a new box, pickup coil and reluctor, and keep this box for backup again.
 
Bump - was hoping to get the parts soon. No more weigh ins?
 
Thanks, but what does FBO mean? The (O)range box?
 
Standard/Blue Streak or Echlin are both good bets.

The orange box is a good ignition box if you get a good one. Sadly the quality has been spotty, and many have had issues. A quality OEM replacement box is far better than most people give it credit for being.
 
C130 Chief said:
Standard/Blue Streak or Echlin are both good bets.

The orange box is a good ignition box if you get a good one. Sadly the quality has been spotty, and many have had issues. A quality OEM replacement box is far better than most people give it credit for being.
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Good up to what RPM? Do you know?
 
Another local "chain" offers BWD and Cardone brands, the former for parts like the reluctor and distributor coil. A review was not particularly favorable.

Thanks to all who offered their opinions thus far.
 
The FBO module does the same thing as the LX-101. They even look very, very similar. The orange MP box pulls out some timing abouve 4K rpm or so (not really a set rpm, but they all pull out timing) Both the orange and aftermarket boxes can control spark well over 6K. I've had stock ones over 7200 before with no problems. They really are good pcs.
 
moper said:
The FBO module does the same thing as the LX-101. They even look very, very similar. The orange MP box pulls out some timing abouve 4K rpm or so (not really a set rpm, but they all pull out timing) Both the orange and aftermarket boxes can control spark well over 6K. I've had stock ones over 7200 before with no problems. They really are good pcs.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I just read the section on Electronic ignitions in the old "Direct Connection" Engine manual last evening. It makes a point about making sure that the ECU, coil and ballast all match up.

The stock box works with the stock coil and BR - obviously, right? ;) ... then it goes on to provide part numbers for each of the combinations.

I am wondering if I had a bad combo. The car was a stock factory 340 - late '72 and one of the first with the ECU, prior to '73. It came stock with the 4 pin Ballast. I had the engine changed out in '92 with one of the last of the MP "Commando" (pre Magnum) crate 360s that came with the orange box.

I need to check if I have the correct coil and BR for the orange box if I intend to stay with it and buy another. If I buy a stock box I need to check that I have a stock coil and ballast. The DC manual does not recommend the Chrome or Gold box for sustained 2000 rpm and lower (which I see a lot of). The manual obviously says nothing about the BFO box combo.
 
I can tell you some about my fbo experience. I ran a matched coil and box,msd 1/4 ohm br for 4 yrs on the street with no trouble. It even would start up in freezing weather with no choke..no failures whatsoever.Sold the car 2 years ago and it's still running strong.
 
The biggest issues with factory type ECUs is the wiring if they are conversions, the ballasts, and the coil condition. Take a voltage reading at the coil positive with the key in the on position. Most times you will find the voltage at the coil is down around 10-11 if the battery shows 12.8-13. This is due to factory wiring, connections, sometimes bad ignition switches, and stock type ballasts that have higher ohms ratings than original (because they fit more applications that way...). I have seen it as low as 8 volts and the car was hard to start as a result. If you only have 10.5 volts feeding it, the stock type stuff screws up and misfires. So you have to make sure teh parts are working properly. You can do this easilly without spening dime one on the aftermarket "special" stuff. If the coil is good, and not leaking oil, and rated for an electronic ignition, it's fine. No voo doo there either.
 
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