Good deal or not (WIW)

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bkbond12

Old ones need lovin too..
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Well folks,
I'm looking for an engine to toss in the Barracuda while I decide what I want to do with the original 273. I found this 318 and was wondering what everyone thought of it. Let me know if it's a good deal or What It's Worth.

Thanks.

He's asking $350 for this....

Modified 318 LA block from a 1973 Charger. Block is 318, heads are 360, Mopar purple cam, Edelbrock air gap intake and Performer 650 carb. This listing is for the engine, accessories are not included but negotiable. I put brand new bracketry and accessories on for a B-Body Dodge. Engine runs as can be seen on my YouTube video here: [ame="http://youtu.be/u06Jb3J1MHc"]302 Found[/ame]

http://holland.craigslist.org/pts/2921625022.html
 
Do a compression test. A motor can run but that compression test will tell you even more.
 
1970Duster said:
Do a compression test. A motor can run but that compression test will tell you even more.
Click to expand...

Obviously the compression test will tell me if the rings, pistons, cylinder walls and valves are good, but is there anything else I would be looking for? What kind of compression numbers should there be. Would a leak down test be just as effective or not really? I really appreciate the info.

Thanks,
-Travis-
 
See if the motor is blowing any smoke and when you do the compression test take a good hard look at the plugs.
 
is it just the engine or do you get the trans with it? last summer i bought a great running complete 318/727 for 350 bucks and the guy delivered it. a good running small block is worth 350 if it is including the carb and the brackets/pulleys.
 
hell you cant get a junkyard motor for 350.00 it sounds good to me other than idling to high.you put that in you might not want the 273 back in it......Artie
 
Check the oil pressure. Pull the dipstick and CHECK the oil. Make sure it ain't milky lookin with water in it. Remove the oil cap from the valve cover while it's running to check blowby. There will be some, but a buttload indicates poor rings. Carry a vacuum gauge and measure the vacuum at curb idle. Anything above 15 is pretty good with a non stock cam. Also, it probably has compression in the 7s unless he's had the block decked and or heads milled a LOT. The 360 heads he bragged about lower compression on a 318 a bunch....but they do flow somewhat better. If he's offering the engine complete and AS IS in the video with everything still bolted to it, that's a pretty good deal even if the engine was smoking some simply because of the accessories and the fact that it runs well. I'd buy it. It'll run on 87 all day long and sound good and probably get decent mileage.
 
I think it's a good deal for the price.
Why is the guy selling it if it's such a good engine?
A leakdown test will tell you if there is any mechanical problems with the engine, it's better than a compression test. Do both if you can.
Ask to take the car for a drive, that will tell you if it has any power and what to expect.
Check the oil pressure with a good mechanical gauge, and if all checks out within reason, buy it!
$350 for a good running engine isn't very much at all.......
Even if it checks out o.k. but not perfect, i still think it's a good deal.
 
73AbodEE said:
is it just the engine or do you get the trans with it? last summer i bought a great running complete 318/727 for 350 bucks and the guy delivered it. a good running small block is worth 350 if it is including the carb and the brackets/pulleys.
Click to expand...

Just the engine, and since he mentioned the carb/intake I'd assume they'd come with it. That sounds like a heck of a deal on a good running combo.

godfatherofchry said:
hell you cant get a junkyard motor for 350.00 it sounds good to me other than idling to high.you put that in you might not want the 273 back in it......Artie
Click to expand...

I haven't decided if I want to rebuild the original 273 or what. I haven't heard anything too great or bad about them.

StrokerScamp said:
Check the oil pressure. Pull the dipstick and CHECK the oil. Make sure it ain't milky lookin with water in it. Remove the oil cap from the valve cover while it's running to check blowby. There will be some, but a buttload indicates poor rings. Carry a vacuum gauge and measure the vacuum at curb idle. Anything above 15 is pretty good with a non stock cam. Also, it probably has compression in the 7s unless he's had the block decked and or heads milled a LOT. The 360 heads he bragged about lower compression on a 318 a bunch....but they do flow somewhat better. If he's offering the engine complete and AS IS in the video with everything still bolted to it, that's a pretty good deal even if the engine was smoking some simply because of the accessories and the fact that it runs well. I'd buy it. It'll run on 87 all day long and sound good and probably get decent mileage.
Click to expand...

Thats kind of what I was thinking.
 
Thanks everyone for the responses. I sent him an e-mail asking if he still had it and these questions which I kind of compiled from all of your responses.

1) You said "accessories not included, but negotiable" Can you clarify "accessories?" I'm assuming you're referring to the alternator, starter, exhaust manifolds and coil, but just want to make sure that you're not including intake, carb, waterpump, harmonic balancer, distributor, timing cover in the description.

2) Have you done a compression test on all of the cylinders? If so, do you have the numbers? If not, is the engine still in the vehicle so that I could inspect and perform a compression test on each of the cylinders?

3) You listed a Purple Cam, do you have the specs or a link to the cam? Is it a flat tappet cam, or roller cam?

4) Does it have the stock pistons/rods, or did you upgrade those?

5) The 360 heads should flow better, but will lower the compression, do you know what the compression ratio is?

6) Has the block been decked or the heads milled at all?

7) Do you have receipts for the parts/work done?
 
bkbond12 said:
Thanks everyone for the responses. I sent him an e-mail asking if he still had it and these questions which I kind of compiled from all of your responses.

1) You said "accessories not included, but negotiable" Can you clarify "accessories?" I'm assuming you're referring to the alternator, starter, exhaust manifolds and coil, but just want to make sure that you're not including intake, carb, waterpump, harmonic balancer, distributor, timing cover in the description.

2) Have you done a compression test on all of the cylinders? If so, do you have the numbers? If not, is the engine still in the vehicle so that I could inspect and perform a compression test on each of the cylinders?

3) You listed a Purple Cam, do you have the specs or a link to the cam? Is it a flat tappet cam, or roller cam?

4) Does it have the stock pistons/rods, or did you upgrade those?

5) The 360 heads should flow better, but will lower the compression, do you know what the compression ratio is?

6) Has the block been decked or the heads milled at all?

7) Do you have receipts for the parts/work done?
Click to expand...

The 273 you have is likely to have the small hub hole in the crank for the torque convertor hub. The 1973 318 will have the larger hole in the crankshaft for the larger hub on the torque convertor. The torque convertor isn't interchangeable but there is a adapter ring that will mate the trans with the later engine.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
The 273 you have is likely to have the small hub hole in the crank for the torque convertor hub. The 1973 318 will have the larger hole in the crankshaft for the larger hub on the torque convertor. The torque convertor isn't interchangeable but there is a adapter ring that will mate the trans with the later engine.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I didn't know that. Could I just get a different torque converter, or is an adaptor plate cheaper? Everything else should "plug and play", like exhaust manifold, and motor mounts?
 
Hey Travis, just FYI the compression of the motor in the 66 was between 90 to 110 psi on every cylinder but the drivers rear, which was somewhere around 75 psi. I think 120-140 indicates a mostly fresh engine!! Geof
 
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