Good long lasting Idler arm?

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72BBSwinger

72BBSwinger

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I bought a new Spicer last summer for my 67-72 Dart and it is already showing vertical slop. I remember reading the Spicers were the way to go but this one is sloppy with maybe 1K on it. What are others using that is holding up?
 
Moog is usually pretty decent stuff. I am going to completely rebuild my front end and will replace with all Moog products.

Of course with so much stuff coming from China anymore,who knows.
 
Badsport said:
Moog is usually pretty decent stuff. I am going to completely rebuild my front end and will replace with all Moog products.

Of course with so much stuff coming from China anymore,who knows.
Click to expand...

yep
 
I think I remember seeing somewhere that FirmFeel was developing or selling a rebuildable unit. Might was to check with them...
 
So what is it a 67 or some later year? Reason is 67 was a one year only where idler arm was attached with a tapered shaft to a mono attachment welded to K member unlike the later through bolt attachment to K member.

If you have the dreaded 67, and it has been loose due to improper torque applied to the nut, it most likely has egg-out the tapered female attachment. You will never again get one to tighten enough to keep it from working loose. I reamed and rebushed it twice to no avail.

I just went through this drill, and acquired a 68 and up through bolt part and had it welded on replacing the 67 only POS. The idler arm is now tight, and a third the cost of the 67 only part… Win-win.

67 idler arm and amputated mount:
003.jpg


Later 68 and up idler arm freshly grafted on:
001.jpg
 
I'm almost postive 72BBSwinger has the 68-72 thru bolt design.


72BBSwinger, I put a Moog idle for a 73-76 type on my Barracuda about 3,500 miles ago. It's got some vertical slop in it now. But I haven't had problems in past.

I'm considering the Firm Feel one. That's similar to the ones we run in our circle track cars. But the Moog ones should be fine. Frustrating.
 
Yes mine is 68-72 style. Mine you cant move up and down by hand but when try to steer the ps tire you can see it move up and down. Its only slightly tighter than the one I replaced a year ago. Its at the alignment shop right now regardless, I have lowered the ride height some more,11/16" tierods and sleeves, changes steering box and put in the Hotchkis rear springs which I have made to sit 2" higher than they were designed to. Figured I better get her dialed back in after all the changes and at least see where it is.
 
yea. next idler arm i get ill replace with the Firm Feel roller bearing equipment...
 
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