Cut to Shape, ready for the Box Sections.
Driver's Seat:
Upright Backrest:
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Driver's Seat:
Upright Backrest:
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Got a new Truck (new to me)
- Thread starter George Jets
- Start date
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Laying our the lower seat boxing and sewing it on.
Template setup for fitting boxing to the seat corner.
Topstitching the boxing on to the seat insert panels, lays down the corner joint more flat, than welt cords that stand up and wear through or crack and break over time.
Topstitching gives double the strength, plus looks more high quality than the plastc welt cords.
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Template setup for fitting boxing to the seat corner.
Topstitching the boxing on to the seat insert panels, lays down the corner joint more flat, than welt cords that stand up and wear through or crack and break over time.
Topstitching gives double the strength, plus looks more high quality than the plastc welt cords.
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Have been looking for an inexpensive used 225 70r15 tire for a spare for the Truck to match the 4 new ones on the aluminum rims.
Found one today while on a used tire run. A single that is like new tread and sidewalls.
$15 bucks... more than fair. Considering new are $80.00 + each now in 2025.
Will be great for the spare. Have a factory steel rim ready to go.
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Found one today while on a used tire run. A single that is like new tread and sidewalls.
$15 bucks... more than fair. Considering new are $80.00 + each now in 2025.
Will be great for the spare. Have a factory steel rim ready to go.
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Gonna be like a new truck.
Packing up seat covers, ready to haul to Florida.
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New headlights today.
The old ones were shinning dim orange, a low beam was burnt, and the driver's headlight had a diagonal crack across it.
Nice Improvement
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The old ones were shinning dim orange, a low beam was burnt, and the driver's headlight had a diagonal crack across it.
Nice Improvement
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8 1/4 Rear End Differential Rebuild Gears/Kit showed up today from Rock Auto.
Will have to set some time aside over the next month to get them put in... tighten things up back there.
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Will have to set some time aside over the next month to get them put in... tighten things up back there.
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Got ambitious here this afternoon and installed the new Diff Rebuild Kit into the '89 Truck. Took out some backlash between the ring and pinion gears while in there and that helped take some some slack out of the Carrier Bearings too. Good to have things lined up and tight again.
Not much to see here, but here it is finished today. No time like the present....
Will be taking it for a test drive in the morning, after topping up the gear lube.
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Not much to see here, but here it is finished today. No time like the present....
Will be taking it for a test drive in the morning, after topping up the gear lube.
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Following up from yesterday tracking down the right front park light corroded connection for repair.
Corroded front park light wires.
Repaired Park Light Wires
Re-taped the Park Light wiring harness across the core support and installed new Wiring Loom protective covering.
All lights working fine now.
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Corroded front park light wires.
Repaired Park Light Wires
Re-taped the Park Light wiring harness across the core support and installed new Wiring Loom protective covering.
All lights working fine now.
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Align the headlights with home made tools.
2 degrees down just like the book says.
Headlights Aligned and New Headlight Doors Installed
All Good Again...
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2 degrees down just like the book says.
Headlights Aligned and New Headlight Doors Installed
All Good Again...
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Going over the rear brake inventory, getting ready to do the rear brakes.
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OK got setup and started on the rear brakes for the truck today.
Fortunately the old brake lines came loose from the old wheel cylinders without twisting off the lines. Hit them with PB Blaster last Summer, then again this Winter when I first came down. They were tight but they came loose with minimal effort and no damage to the lines or threads.
So that makes replacing the wheel cylinders pretty easy, without having to get into new line work.
One step at a time, passenger side tear down tomorrow.
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Fortunately the old brake lines came loose from the old wheel cylinders without twisting off the lines. Hit them with PB Blaster last Summer, then again this Winter when I first came down. They were tight but they came loose with minimal effort and no damage to the lines or threads.
So that makes replacing the wheel cylinders pretty easy, without having to get into new line work.
One step at a time, passenger side tear down tomorrow.
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Driver's side, new wheel cylinder, shoes, hardware kit, springs.
On to the passenger side next.
Good to have one side at a time intact so you know where all thoses springs, adjusters, and cables go, to come back to as a reference.
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On to the passenger side next.
Good to have one side at a time intact so you know where all thoses springs, adjusters, and cables go, to come back to as a reference.
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Have not put the new cover on just yet.
My seat color is called Buckskin. And it is a nice match to the old seat color, fortunately.
Your light tan color may be called Taupe.
I have my sewing machine down here for the final fitting of my seat cover.
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My seat color is called Buckskin. And it is a nice match to the old seat color, fortunately.
Your light tan color may be called Taupe.
I have my sewing machine down here for the final fitting of my seat cover.
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One step forward, prepped and painted the driver's brake backing plate.
Then a hurricane wind came up, so that's it for today.
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Then a hurricane wind came up, so that's it for today.
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Finished up rear brakes today, system bled, and wheels back on the ground.
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Installed the last of the front brake calipers, new brake pads and brake hoses today, finishing up the full truck brake job.
Cleaned up and painted the upper A-frame too.
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Cleaned up and painted the upper A-frame too.
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Have been doing some testing of different ignition coils lately on the truck.
Here is my current favorite setup: Mopar Distributor with HEI conversion and the 60,000 volt E-Core Coil, running on straight 12 volt power with no ballast resistors. Also ran this same identical setup on the 1976 Dodge D100 that I previously owned.
Being that it is an E-Core Coil that pushes out 60,000 volts, was able to open the NGK GR4 Spark Plugs to a gap of .050 ths.
A longer spark ignites the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber better, more efficient burn. As shown by the clean burning GR4 spark plug below with the .050 gap at the electrode.
Nice clean burning plug, especially considering the original 318 Roller Engine has 96,000 miles on it. Running Non-Ethanol Fuel 91 Octane rating. Fed by an Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm 4 barrel carburetor.
The tailpipe is also running cleaner too with the .050 ths spark plug gaps.
Nice simple ignition setup that runs well.
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Here is my current favorite setup: Mopar Distributor with HEI conversion and the 60,000 volt E-Core Coil, running on straight 12 volt power with no ballast resistors. Also ran this same identical setup on the 1976 Dodge D100 that I previously owned.
Being that it is an E-Core Coil that pushes out 60,000 volts, was able to open the NGK GR4 Spark Plugs to a gap of .050 ths.
A longer spark ignites the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber better, more efficient burn. As shown by the clean burning GR4 spark plug below with the .050 gap at the electrode.
Nice clean burning plug, especially considering the original 318 Roller Engine has 96,000 miles on it. Running Non-Ethanol Fuel 91 Octane rating. Fed by an Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm 4 barrel carburetor.
The tailpipe is also running cleaner too with the .050 ths spark plug gaps.
Nice simple ignition setup that runs well.
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JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Diagram right clicked and saved! Where do you mount the HEI module?
HEI Module mounts under a factory mopar electronic distributor with the Mopar to HEI adapter plate.
E-Core Coil mounts at the center upper firewall just below the wiper panel. Just to the right of where the Stock Mounted horizontal tower coil was mounted on the firewall.
Used a 2" x 2" aluminum angle to mount it to the slope of the firewall on center with the engine. E-core coil runs cool to the touch, like warm bath water > and does not run hot. Good place for the e-coil to breathe up off the 165 degree intake manifold.
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Put together a spare "Quick Attach" HEI module and mopar distributor heat sink bracket, and simple wiring, just in case something could fail while driving this truck out of state.
Can easily one screw it to a hole in the firewall close to the mopar distributor and e-core coil. Just plug the red / white wire pigtail into the mopar distibutor and good to go.
Something to wrap up and keep in a baggie in the glove box.
The old saying goes, if you have a spare > it will never break down....
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Can easily one screw it to a hole in the firewall close to the mopar distributor and e-core coil. Just plug the red / white wire pigtail into the mopar distibutor and good to go.
Something to wrap up and keep in a baggie in the glove box.
The old saying goes, if you have a spare > it will never break down....
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The hotter 60,000 volt E-Core Coil produces a longer spark and faster more efficient burn of the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber with the spark plugs gapped at .050 ths.
This is burning so much faster that it is actually advancing the timing by around 4°.
Hence the reason to back the actual timing down to 8° BTDC, and figuring the faster burn that advances it another 4° puts the the initial timing at 12° BTDC.
12° BTDC just as the mopar manual recommends for the '89 318.
Working out really well.
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Casey, you've done a lot of work on that truck. It's turned out really nice.
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