I'm not an advocate of either, really. I'm just saying use what you want. There's nothing wrong with either. I've seen LOTS of tapered roller bearings fail, too and I know lots of yall have.
Green Bearing Question
- Thread starter Kendog 170
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Yeah. What rotor? LOL
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
LOL, that was my Ex- Daughter in law! Point is they fail way too often, I've lost track of how many front hubs that I have done on just our family vehicles in the past 20 years...
Here's another few great shots of the DinLaw's truck.... lol Thank god it was a 2 wheel drive and had front mounted calipers, that is what kept the wheel in place, it fell out backing up. She'd been out on the expressway that day at 120kph before she drove into the Son's and then backed up and the wheel hub fell off !
i agree. in a pointed sense, if i was road racing a car i'd probably want tapered bearings, but that's very application specifc.
it's a whole *** brouhaha from way back when mopar had a run of greens that were prone to failure and everybody associates that forever more. it's like gettin' chorro that one time you ate at the sketchy taco truck and swearing off burritos forever.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
I never saw the need to go away from the factory setup. Green bearings were for drag racing only, but they worked so well there had to be like three different versions since the original design before the green bearing performed acceptably. Even now, the biggest advocate for them is the guy that makes money on them.
These guys act like you gotta pull a wheel and adjust the axle bearings every time you stop for gas. I've seen far more failed Green bearings than I have tapered rollers, and most of the OEM applications seem like the Green bearings are quite a bit bigger than what's used on these conversions. I don't have a problem with an axle designed for them, but I just don't see the need to try and out-ace the factory engineers, either.
In the factory set up, the cornering load is carried by the opposite side bearing, and I'm sorry, the tapered bearing does a fine job of carrying that. People gotta fix something that ain't broke, though, and I get that, too.
I don't agree with it but I get it.
These guys act like you gotta pull a wheel and adjust the axle bearings every time you stop for gas. I've seen far more failed Green bearings than I have tapered rollers, and most of the OEM applications seem like the Green bearings are quite a bit bigger than what's used on these conversions. I don't have a problem with an axle designed for them, but I just don't see the need to try and out-ace the factory engineers, either.
In the factory set up, the cornering load is carried by the opposite side bearing, and I'm sorry, the tapered bearing does a fine job of carrying that. People gotta fix something that ain't broke, though, and I get that, too.
I don't agree with it but I get it.
wow, i was gonna say that preventative maintenance isn't in somebody's vocabulary but it appears that just plain ol' maintenance isn't either.
something, something, correlation, something, causation, something, something.
HEY.. just turn the stereo up ! After what the ***** did to my Son I wish she'd lost it on the expressway !
jeff alder
Well-Known Member
Look at all the MODERN road rally cars. Nuff said.
I believe there are more failed green bearings too. But I think it's because NOWADAYS the green bearings FAR outnumber tapered roller bearings in the everyday auto industry. They are literally on just about everything.
jeff alder
Well-Known Member
The first generation RP 400 bearings from the Mopar 7.25 had a design flaw which is specifically spelled out in the above article. It's a good read. The second generation MO 400 solved that problem. As Rusty said they were also in the Ford 9 inch. Green Bearing sold out to Bearing Technologies.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
Lol
he talks about how the hole for the thrust block creates a stress riser. #1, 8 3/4's aren't known for blowing apart in that area and #2, slapping on a set of green bearings ain't filling in that hole or fixing that "problem"
He says axle spline engagement suffers. If you're twisting off axle splines, a green bearing ain't gonna change a thing. The force required to twist off an axle doesn't change the further up the splines you go and if you're stripping the splines off the axle, you've got the wrong setup and the extra depth afforded by green bearings ain't adding enough to change your fate.
"Beaded steel and foam gaskets don’t keep water from running into the housing end" and what does the latest generation of green bearing use to keep water from between the axle flange and the bearing plate? Gaskets.
"Check your A7 bearings if you back your pickup into water" yeah drain your axle no matter what bearing you're running because green bearings don't plug that "pesky" axle vent that's right there on top of the axle. That's user error, dude, not a design error limited to factory bearings.
"Axle flange standout isn't constant" yeah and neither is the body alignment on the leaf springs, the axle location on the leaf springs, the slop in the leaf spring bushings, or anything else on a classic Chrysler vehicle, but that few thousandths of adjustability on the axle bearing? Yeah it's a miracle these cars don't wear the tires prematurely on the left side because that's where the driver sits.
"making a set of axles with adjustable set 7 wheel bearings for a custom application is very hard" Yep, must be, and that's why custom made axles are SO HARD TO FIND, and why they all insist on green bearings when you buy aftermarket axles.
Again, bearing advice from the guy selling the bearings.
Edited to add: run whatever bearings you want, but don't get lied to about why you should run them. The original green bearing was used to eliminate a little drag. That's it. Nothing more.
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I agree 100% with all of this.Lol
he talks about how the hole for the thrust block creates a stress riser. #1, 8 3/4's aren't known for blowing apart in that area and #2, slapping on a set of green bearings ain't filling in that hole or fixing that "problem"
He says axle spline engagement suffers. If you're twisting off axle splines, a green bearing ain't gonna change a thing. The force required to twist off an axle doesn't change the further up the splines you go and if you're stripping the splines off the axle, you've got the wrong setup and the extra depth afforded by green bearings ain't adding enough to change your fate.
"Beaded steel and foam gaskets don’t keep water from running into the housing end" and what does the latest generation of green bearing use to keep water from between the axle flange and the bearing plate? Gaskets.
"Check your A7 bearings if you back your pickup into water" yeah drain your axle no matter what bearing you're running because green bearings don't plug that "pesky" axle vent that's right there on top of the axle. That's user error, dude, not a design error limited to factory bearings.
"Axle flange standout isn't constant" yeah and neither is the body alignment on the leaf springs, the axle location on the leaf springs, the slop in the leaf spring bushings, or anything else on a classic Chrysler vehicle, but that few thousandths of adjustability on the axle bearing? Yeah it's a miracle these cars don't wear the tires prematurely on the left side because that's where the driver sits.
"making a set of axles with adjustable set 7 wheel bearings for a custom application is very hard" Yep, must be, and that's why custom made axles are SO HARD TO FIND, and why they all insist on green bearings when you buy aftermarket axles.
Again, bearing advice from the guy selling the bearings.
Edited to add: run whatever bearings you want, but don't get lied to about why you should run them. The original green bearing was used to eliminate a little drag. That's it. Nothing more.
340six
King Of Bling
A good friend of mine was in charge of a fleet of (Ford)DHL vans. Some had 250-300K on them and the green bearings were still fine.
67CBodyGuy
Well-Known Member
Like I keep asking, green bearings just mean ball bearing. And apparently there is only one type or design or source for these today for the 8.75? (or maybe there are 2 types, the older inferior one and the improved one). Unlike for the front hub tapered rollers (A6, Set 2, etc) where there are several different manufacturers of them, is there just one manufacturer for this 8.75 ball bearing?
Are the original-type tapered rollers still available for the 8.75, and are they really beyond the DIY to install?
Are there flat rollers available for the 8.75? Sealed, pre-lubed flat rollers? Wouldn't a flat roller have all the advantages of a ball bearing (no pre-load error) but without the weakness of a ball-bearing (hardly any contact surface) ?
Are the original-type tapered rollers still available for the 8.75, and are they really beyond the DIY to install?
Are there flat rollers available for the 8.75? Sealed, pre-lubed flat rollers? Wouldn't a flat roller have all the advantages of a ball bearing (no pre-load error) but without the weakness of a ball-bearing (hardly any contact surface) ?
340six
King Of Bling
At the time when I swapped my 1973 Darts 8 1/4 321:1 sure grip out for A_Body 8 3/4 the only bearings Moser had on new axels were Green Bearings
You could not get tapered. If you wany rear disk no tapered
That would have been 2003 or 2004. Not sure if they are Snap Ring ones or not.
I had to remove the pins on my 742 Dana PowerLock gear sets or use the non suregrip chunks. The axels with cone center section won't go in as the center pin hits. I am not going to pull them apart to make um work. Some of my gears are in Borg Warner Cone sure grips. I can not use them. As the whole center needs pulled aparr to get center out. Where as my Dana PowerLock just has easy to remove pins. To much to pull apart a cone and remove pin. At that point might as well just put Dana PowerLock instead of cone. Was told I could trim the aisle. Not sure that it is an option for me
I may upgrade the non Clip Greens to newer ones with clip. But not right now, they have super low miles on um. That's also what most old car guys will have somewhat limited use and won't wear them out
You could not get tapered. If you wany rear disk no tapered
That would have been 2003 or 2004. Not sure if they are Snap Ring ones or not.
I had to remove the pins on my 742 Dana PowerLock gear sets or use the non suregrip chunks. The axels with cone center section won't go in as the center pin hits. I am not going to pull them apart to make um work. Some of my gears are in Borg Warner Cone sure grips. I can not use them. As the whole center needs pulled aparr to get center out. Where as my Dana PowerLock just has easy to remove pins. To much to pull apart a cone and remove pin. At that point might as well just put Dana PowerLock instead of cone. Was told I could trim the aisle. Not sure that it is an option for me
I may upgrade the non Clip Greens to newer ones with clip. But not right now, they have super low miles on um. That's also what most old car guys will have somewhat limited use and won't wear them out
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Yes. All the tapered roller bearings are readily available and very user friendly to install as long as you have tools.
67CBodyGuy
Well-Known Member
I just looked through the 5 pages of parts for the 8.75 offered by Dr. Diff, and I only see the tapered roller kit for sale ($128). Set 7. I don't see any "green" or ball bearing kit.
I stumbled upon another vendor - RMS Ron's Machining Service, and they have an OEM tapered bearing package ($100), but in their description they say "New Chrysler 8.75" Green axle bearing kit (pair).". The photo of the kit shows roller bearings. Not ball bearings. So this is confusing. Again I'm confused how a "green" bearing can be a roller bearing. Because if it can be, then what exactly makes a green bearing different than the original factory bearing?
I stumbled upon another vendor - RMS Ron's Machining Service, and they have an OEM tapered bearing package ($100), but in their description they say "New Chrysler 8.75" Green axle bearing kit (pair).". The photo of the kit shows roller bearings. Not ball bearings. So this is confusing. Again I'm confused how a "green" bearing can be a roller bearing. Because if it can be, then what exactly makes a green bearing different than the original factory bearing?
A or B you still have to press them on. Do it once, do it right!
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
There are several vendors/manufacturers, if I understand it correctly.
My Moser axles in 2006 came with no bearings, and I ran OEM Timken bearings. That said, I only spec'd for drum brakes and can't comment on the disc brake options.
They're in there. I just saw 'em earlier when I looked up the picture of green bearings with gaskets.
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ETA, I linked the wrong bearings. What a dumbass.
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You need to brush up on your search skills.
Mopar Green Bearings for 8 3/4" (8.75) and Dana 60
Mopar Green Bearings for 8 3/4" and Dana 60 rearends
www.doctordiff.com
340six
King Of Bling
They sold them no bearing or green. They did not have the parts needed. Bearing and Races but lacked the adjusters to adjust backlash.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
That makes sense. At that time the adjuster was getting scarce, but reproductions exist now
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