Green bearings & sure-grip center units

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George R

George R

Mopar Nutcase
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If I remember right, that "button" inside the sure grip unit has to come out in order to install the axles that have been converted to Green bearings.

How do you get the button out of there?

Also, how can I tell if the axle splines are lined up before I try to install this thing in the housing?

I'm working alone, and on my back on the floor of my garage.......at age 46........I should be in Hawaii somewhere sippin' on a colorful drink with an umbrella in it, but I digress.

Thanks in advance for the help. :glasses7:

George
 
if you have a cobe style sure grip
you need to dissemble the sure grip
to get this (center section) out
 
It depends on what sure grip you have, if you have the clutch type the thrust block can be removed by getting the pin out and the 2 pieces will pop out, a lot of times the pin is already broke and the thrust block will just fall out (make sure you find all pieces, 2 buttons and a pin). If you have the cone type the thrust block can only be removed by dis-assembly of the unit itself.

I have read some posts where some guys have not removed it and they say it worked. Most articles I have read say to remove it.

I would use an axle to align the splines BEFORE you install the center section. If you have trouble getting the axle to seat, then you can rotate it slightly while using inward pressure after the center section is installed.
 
It's a cone style SG unit.
I've been looking in the service manual, but it says the unit isn't servicable, so how does a guy get it apart, and back together without messing it up?
Thanks for the reply.

George
 
George R said:
It's a cone style SG unit.
I've been looking in the service manual, but it says the unit isn't servicable, so how does a guy get it apart, and back together without messing it up?
Thanks for the reply.

George
Click to expand...

I've done this with a cone type Suregrip. You will need to remove the suregrip unit and disassemble it to remove the thrust block. BUT WAIT!!!

1. Did you buy new axles with greens installed? If yes, have you asked axle manufacturer if you need to move thrust block? As you said some require, some do not, it depends on axle length. If you're using stock axles, then yes you will need to remove the thrust block.

2. If you need to remove Suregrip you first need to check gear backlash with dial indicator (see FSM for procedure). Then you will need spanner wrenches (borrow, loan, or make your own) so you can properly set backlash to original specs.

This is not that tough if you follow procedure for removing/installing suregrip and setting backlash. The Suregrip does come apart easily (a few bolts), it's not servicable (rebuildable) in the same manner as the clutch Suregrip...but that's another story.
 
OK here's the scoop.......
First, the axles. They're Moser axles that came in the car when I got it. I have no idea what the original length should be or if these are stock length or not.

Second is the SG unit. Bought it from a member here a few years ago who is now selling a B Body in the for sale section. It's a cone style SG unit, 489 case, and the seller said the cones were remachined to make it work again. I didn't do a thing with it since I bought it until today. I pulled it out of storage and started reading the service manual. The manual states that pinion bearing preload should be 20-30 inch lbs of drag without the seal installed. If this thing has 5 inch lbs of drag FULLY ASSEMBLED I'd be lucky. I'm beginning to think I was robbed when I gave him close to $400 for it.

All I wanted to do was take out the 456's I have, and install this unit with 323's. Looks like I'll be stuck with the 456's again. I don't trust the unit now, and I don't have the tools to check it, or set it up properly so I don't want to install it in my car.

George
 
George R said:
First, the axles. They're Moser axles that came in the car when I got it......
Click to expand...


I used Moser axles with greens back in mid 90's and I had to remove thrust block, not sure if Moser changed this, might be worth a call.

George R said:
Second is the SG unit.... It's a cone style SG unit, 489 case, and the seller said the cones were remachined to make it work again...
Click to expand...

I've done this mod to a cone Suregrip and it worked fine for street use.

George R said:
The manual states that pinion bearing preload should be 20-30 inch lbs of drag without the seal installed. If this thing has 5 inch lbs of drag FULLY ASSEMBLED I'd be lucky...
Click to expand...

If the original owner did not remove pinion (no need to if only swapping to Suregrip) then it may be okay. You can give it a good inspection once suregrip is removed.
 
............Being used 5 in lbs will be fine.....u could have alittle taken off the ends if needed.............kim.........
 
Not to hi-jack the thread, but how easy (or difficult) is it to install the thrust button in a clutch SG?
 
IF you use AFTER MARKET axels you need to take it out. When I had mine rebuilt they measured and they did not need to take it out and i have cone suregrip. After market axles are not exact and sometimes are longer. Factory axles are fine.
 
I would use the pin if possible as it lets both bearings absorb side loads instead the outside bearing only on turns.
 
Whats the problem with green bearings does it let the axle set in too far?
 
Depends on your axles, my mossers with green bearings did not need it removed. Measuring is key.
 
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