Guess on the cause of these symptoms?

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bigtooth

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This is a newly rebuilt 833 non OD with the 3.09 first gear, running 90 weight gl-4 gear oil I'm having trouble with second and want to now if I should just baby it and hope it smooths out, or if something is really wrong.

Here are some main points.

1) I can sit in the car with it running, but not moving, and easily shift in and out of all gears without any clashing or roughness, including reverse.
2) 1 to 2 upshifts are smooth as long as you shift out of 1st early (< 2500 rpm)
3) 2 to 3 shifts are PERFECT, as are 4 to 3 downshifts
4) 3 to 4 shifts are near perfect, as in just some light clashing if you try to shift to high/fast ( the same as 1 to 2 upshifts)

All of this seems okay and feels like it would get better with some more break in time, the thing i'm not sure about is down shifting into 2nd
What happens is:

1) I cannot downshift into 2nd at all from any gear unless I get the coasting to under 10 or 15 mph and ease it in, the gears just seem to grind/clash/catch It flat out wont go in till the car slows down, even if I bring up the engine rpms.
2) If I am going down the road and accelerate ,all the way up to 35 40 mph, and simply push the clutch in and go to neutral, I can get back into second perfectly, however as soon as I either let the clutch out in neutral and try to go back to second and/or shift into another gear and try to go back to second, it wont go in till I bring the speed of the car way down.

Something feels wrong, but I'm VERY new to this and am not sure.
 
I'm tearing an 833OD apart right now myself. Did you put new gears in or reuse the originals. If they are originals, did you drive this transmission or is this a new swap.
 
The gears were reused, I did not drive the transmission, it was a core I got that I had rebuilt.
 
okay, thanks guys. Guess i'll have to pull it and have a look since all the syncros were new.
 
If you are going to pull it, and still can't see anything wrong. Throw it in the back and take it to a local tech school and talk to the shop teacher. usually will give good free advise, trans shop too.
 
Also, you won't see anything wrong.
The syncronizer ring are recessed into the back side of the gears themselves.
You may see a little rounding of the brass teeth, but that's not the part that is supposed to stop the gear from turning so that they engage cleanly.
 
bigtooth said:
This is a newly rebuilt 833 non OD with the 3.09 first gear, running 90 weight gl-4 gear oil I'm having trouble with second and want to now if I should just baby it and hope it smooths out, or if something is really wrong.

Here are some main points.

1) I can sit in the car with it running, but not moving, and easily shift in and out of all gears without any clashing or roughness, including reverse.
2) 1 to 2 upshifts are smooth as long as you shift out of 1st early (< 2500 rpm)
3) 2 to 3 shifts are PERFECT, as are 4 to 3 downshifts
4) 3 to 4 shifts are near perfect, as in just some light clashing if you try to shift to high/fast ( the same as 1 to 2 upshifts)

All of this seems okay and feels like it would get better with some more break in time, the thing i'm not sure about is down shifting into 2nd
What happens is:

1) I cannot downshift into 2nd at all from any gear unless I get the coasting to under 10 or 15 mph and ease it in, the gears just seem to grind/clash/catch It flat out wont go in till the car slows down, even if I bring up the engine rpms.
2) If I am going down the road and accelerate ,all the way up to 35 40 mph, and simply push the clutch in and go to neutral, I can get back into second perfectly, however as soon as I either let the clutch out in neutral and try to go back to second and/or shift into another gear and try to go back to second, it wont go in till I bring the speed of the car way down.

Something feels wrong, but I'm VERY new to this and am not sure.
Click to expand...

I had my 4spd completely rebuilt, almost everything was replaced. New synchros, 2nd gear, shift forks. I think the only thing not replaced was 3rd and 4th gear. My transmission acted exactly the same as what you describe. I just kept driving it and it got a little bit better within a few hundred miles. It seemed to get a lot better after 1000 miles. I now have over 4000 miles on it and it shifts good. I think everything just needed some miles to break-in.
 
TrailBeast said:
Or so you were told.
If a shop did the rebuild take it back and tell about it.
Click to expand...

The guy that built it seems like a real standup guy, gave me a CD rom full of pictures of the rebuild. I do trust that it was all new. But, I have let him know, and am sure he'll get back to me.
But I do value the wealth of experience here, so wanted to see what you all had for opinions :prayer:
I agree I would not be able to tell anything from looking at it myself :) rather i'd setup a time for the builder to check things out.

340: I'm glad you chimed in. I will continue to drive it to see if it gets noticably better or worse. Also, the builder definatly said to give it 1000 to 1500 miles and it will start to shift better/easier.
 
There was one more thing I noticed that I forgot earlier.

I was checking the linkage and making sure everything was tight, and when tightening the 1/2 shifter tab nut on the stud I could move the tab/stud one position further towards the rear of the car this would cause the shifter to lock until I manuualy moved the tab back one position by turing the nut on the stud counter clockwise with my wrench. Does this sound normal?
 
bigtooth said:
There was one more thing I noticed that I forgot earlier.

I was checking the linkage and making sure everything was tight, and when tightening the 1/2 shifter tab nut on the stud I could move the tab/stud one position further towards the rear of the car this would cause the shifter to lock until I manuualy moved the tab back one position by turing the nut on the stud counter clockwise with my wrench. Does this sound normal?
Click to expand...

That could be just the reverse gear traveling farther because the lever can move farther than the linkage normally allows.
Could you tell if it was actually all the way into reverse, and then it traveled farther?
 
bigtooth said:
.

I was checking the linkage and making sure everything was tight, and when tightening the 1/2 shifter tab nut on the stud I could move the tab/stud one position further towards the rear of the car this would cause the shifter to lock until I manuualy moved the tab back one position by turing the nut on the stud counter clockwise with my wrench. Does this sound normal?
Click to expand...

Yep moving the levers on the trans from underneath without moving the shifter handle will lock the shifter. Thats normal.
 
Thanks guys! I'm planning on driving it a couple hundred miles this weekend, we'll see what happens.
 
comment number 10 is the key here, but he didnt go far enough to explain. It is the brass STOP ring which stops the freewheeling gear enough to slide the slider ring onto the gear. If it doesnt slow down enough to 'synchronize', the slider wont engage, and you hear the grinding. So the underside of the ring does the stopping, and you can not seethat condition installed. Lets assume the builder didnt go cheap and not replace that, even if the top looked 'good'.
 
Hello, there is a guy here on Long Island N.Y. His name is Tom Derych. He has been a Transmission builder for over 35 years, he's fantastic with Torqueflites and 833's. He's a MOPAR guy, he owns a 70' 472ci. blown Hemi Charger and an original 70 440+6 GTX. I hope that you check him out, Joe Arceri
 
A leaky tampax. There, I guessed.
 
340 said:
My transmission acted exactly the same as what you describe. I just kept driving it and it got a little bit better within a few hundred miles. It seemed to get a lot better after 1000 miles. I now have over 4000 miles on it and it shifts good. I think everything just needed some miles to break-in.
Click to expand...

The latter comment, I don't think so.
 
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