Guns, Dogs and Blades QnA

[Mattax]

Similar situation with some other common practices that statistically have not been 100%, as well as those that are perceived to increase risk - especially when doing lots of live fire from holstered carry. It seems we are told to dry fire practice the draw with ___________, and in the class you have to use X Y or Z. So I would think there is a range of historical responses to draw on (no pun intended). IWB (especial 1-2 o'clock, shoulder holsters, cross draw, etc. Open triggers is another one, which with a DA revolver is the vast majority of classic holsters, and still somewhat common today, but some (most?) classes those are not allowed. Maybe you'll end up with some arrangement to substitute during class. I don't recall if there is any conclusions on why there are AD with Serpas. Is there any human contribution? Or is entirely mechanical failure?

 

[Mattax]

I agree, I need to give the stock some love. I saw something on my feed a long time ago where a guy did exotic drop dead gorgeous replacement stocks for Garands. I may pursue that. Make the purists crazy! But I may want to run some matches and I gotta pass tech inspection!

It looks nice. Just dry. if its tight use it. Remove the trigger group and barrel-reciver. Pull the butt plate (that is where the machining can reveal the manufacture) and give it some raw linseed oil (flaxseed oil). bet it sucks it right up.

have you thought about what sling you'll be using?

 

[Sublime one]

It looks nice. Just dry. if its tight use it. Remove the trigger group and barrel-reciver. Pull the butt plate (that is where the machining can reveal the manufacture) and give it some raw linseed oil (flaxseed oil). bet it sucks it right up.

have you thought about what sling you'll be using?

Original sling, I already got a line on one

 

[diymirage]

Original sling, I already got a line on one

My first shotgun was an H&R pardner, basically a chinese 870 clone

So I went online on ebay and punched in "H R Pardner sling"

Yeah, not what I was expecting to find

 

[Sublime one]

My first shotgun was an H&R pardner, basically a chinese 870 clone

So I went online on ebay and punched in "H R Pardner sling"

Yeah, not what I was expecting to find

No way I want to know what that means!

 

[diymirage]

The stock on that rifle is sick! But I’d be afraid to take it in the woods for fear of dinging it up. I can’t have nice things.

 

[diymirage]

No way I want to know what that means!

They thought i wanted a sling for a partner, instead of a pardner
Whole different shooting match

 

[WV64Signet]

@Sublime one

 

[Mattax]

@Sublime one

View attachment 1716357546

late production doesn't work well with standard 30-06 rims
don't ask me why I know

 

[Mattax]

My first shotgun was an H&R pardner, basically a chinese 870 clone

So I went online on ebay and punched in "H R Pardner sling"

Yeah, not what I was expecting to find

This is what has happened to all of the search engines, g**gle, *uck *uck go, '**'zon, *bay, They all search for what they think you want instead of what you typed in. And god forbid should the page you're looking for be more than a year or two old. Used to be you could scroll until you found the older pages - not any more. Bookmark any sites or pages you find useful.

 

[diymirage]

This is what has happened to all of the search engines, g**gle, *uck *uck go, '**'zon, *bay, They all search for what they think you want instead of what you typed in. And god forbid should the page you're looking for be more than a year or two old. Used to be you could scroll until you found the older pages - not any more. Bookmark any sites or pages you find useful.

You want to see what google is, type in a phrase from your favorite Bible verse, and see where it lands

 

[Sublime one]

@Sublime one

View attachment 1716357546

I have more than I will ever need

 

[Sublime one]

That was hilarious!

 

[Sublime one]

I got the Garand stripped down. Getting ready to steel wool it then rub it down a million times with boiled linseed oil. Here is the before pictures, it is all I can do not to try some polyurethane!

 

[Sublime one]

Have any of you guys experimented with polyurethane finish on stocks? The wood is just so perfect I am terrified of making a mess of it, so all I know to do is rub it down with the BLO.

 

[Mattax]

You could always polyurethane over a stock that has been treated with BLO, RLO or Tung oil. Can't go the other way around. Poly u or any varnish will form a film on top of the surface. I think it would get slippery when hot humid and sweaty but we certainly see lots of rifles (and revolvers) with shiny wood stocks so what do I know? Spar varnishes are softer than furniture varnishes and I *think* most polyurethanes.
I think S&W revolver stocks were laquered or similar. Can be sprayed and leaves the checkering sharp.

Raw will soak in deeper. Boiled dries faster. The carbine comunity has (mostly) accepted that RLO was the prefered finish and the Garand community seems to have running arguements over what was done in production and in-service; BLO, RLO, or Tung Oil.

The military certainly pushed RLO in their manuals and even PS Magazine

Supposedly RLO will redisolve and and renew the previous coats. I say supposedly because its still a drying oil and there will be some cross linking of the molecules which is not really reversible. But any molecules in the pores that haven't cross linked - sure they can be picked up along with the dirt. Maybe the biggest goal was what the magazine says - non-sticky, along with a flat non-shiny finish.

If you want to look at present day before and after of RLO treatment, check out this thread and photos

https://forums.thecmp.org/forum/cmp-sales/m1-garand/3518440-m1-stock-refinishing-submersion-technique

New production carbine stocks in the 1940s and 50s were only dipped for 5 minutes

Want to darken a new handguard - The Carbine Collector's Club

howdy guys, back with another QRecently got a NOS (think it’s birch) handguard. I say it’s new,...

www.uscarbinecal30.com

I assume Garands were similar.

 

[Sublime one]

You could always polyurethane over a stock that has been treated with BLO, RLO or Tung oil. Can't go the other way around. Poly u or any varnish will form a film on top of the surface. I think it would get slippery when hot humid and sweaty but we certainly see lots of rifles (and revolvers) with shiny wood stocks so what do I know? Spar varnishes are softer than furniture varnishes and I *think* most polyurethanes.
I think S&W revolver stocks were laquered or similar. Can be sprayed and leaves the checkering sharp.

Raw will soak in deeper. Boiled dries faster. The carbine comunity has (mostly) accepted that RLO was the prefered finish and the Garand community seems to have running arguements over what was done in production and in-service; BLO, RLO, or Tung Oil.

The military certainly pushed RLO in their manuals and even PS Magazine

View attachment 1716358148



Supposedly RLO will redisolve and and renew the previous coats. I say supposedly because its still a drying oil and there will be some cross linking of the molecules which is not really reversible. But any molecules in the pores that haven't cross linked - sure they can be picked up along with the dirt. Maybe the biggest goal was what the magazine says - non-sticky, along with a flat non-shiny finish.

If you want to look at present day before and after of RLO treatment, check out this thread and photos

http://[URL]https://forums.thecmp.o...440-m1-stock-refinishing-submersion-technique

[/URL]

New production carbine stocks in the 1940s and 50s were only dipped for 5 minutes

http://[URL]http://www.uscarbinecal...34&title=want-to-darken-a-new-handguard#49234

[/URL]
I assume Garands were similar.

Best thread ever! Thanks a million Matt!

 

[pauly]

I used TruOil on a couple shotgun stocks 20+ years ago and they still look great. To me, a gun is a tool, no different than a hammer or screwdriver. It just has a different purpose. I don’t fret about taking my nice guns hunting and they all have a few dents, dings and scratches on them but that gives them character.

 

[Sublime one]

So I had to get some 8/3 SO cord today and went to a wholesale electric outfit. A pawn shop was right across the street. In a moment of insanity I decided to go in. They had a bunch of O/Us but nothing that interested me. Counter guy said what do you like? I said Brownings! He said I got a Citori in back room you want to see it? Yep! 1200 bucks for a Citori with screw in chokes. I told him it was a fair price but I needed to pass. I am going back tomorrow!

 

[Sublime one]

Well it rained all day today here so I spent most of the day in the gun shop. Loaded some 45acp and primed a bunch of brass then decided to sand on the Garand stock. I ran 0000 steel wool till my arm fell off. But she looks pretty darn good now! Next step is oil, not sure which oil at this point, but I can tell you it will not be boiled ! Thanks again @Mattax

 

[Bodyperson]

Well it rained all day today here so I spent most of the day in the gun shop. Loaded some 45acp and primed a bunch of brass then decided to sand on the Garand stock. I ran 0000 steel wool till my arm fell off. But she looks pretty darn good now! Next step is oil, not sure which oil at this point, but I can tell you it will not be boiled ! Thanks again @Mattax

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That looks good. When I was a kid, I was told to use a broken piece of glass to scrape the wood.

 

[FJRdoc]

Looks great Sublime. I agree with passing on the boiled linseed oil. It takes forever to dry and it really offers minimal protection from the elements. A polymerized linseed oil would be a better choice if you wanted to stay more traditional.
I've tried many different wood finishes on my firearm restorations. Ultimately, it comes down to how you want the wood to look. Some folks like glassy smooth and shiny (not me). I've had a lot of success with wipe on polyurethane in either a satin or warm gloss finish. It's easy to use and offers much better protection than the old traditional finishes.

 

[pauly]

Well it rained all day today here so I spent most of the day in the gun shop. Loaded some 45acp and primed a bunch of brass then decided to sand on the Garand stock. I ran 0000 steel wool till my arm fell off. But she looks pretty darn good now! Next step is oil, not sure which oil at this point, but I can tell you it will not be boiled ! Thanks again @Mattax

View attachment 1716359892

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That does look nice. I have an H&R Model 12 target .22 that I should do that too. It was a CMP gun and was new when I got it but the stock is rough as a corn cob!

 

[dartindanno]

Well it rained all day today here so I spent most of the day in the gun shop. Loaded some 45acp and primed a bunch of brass then decided to sand on the Garand stock. I ran 0000 steel wool till my arm fell off. But she looks pretty darn good now! Next step is oil, not sure which oil at this point, but I can tell you it will not be boiled ! Thanks again @Mattax

View attachment 1716359892

View attachment 1716359893

That is my all-time favorite weapon. Years ago I used to shoot NRA high power for service rifles, lots of good times and met a lot of great people.

 

[gzig5]

I have had good results with Permalyn and Tru Oil. Both are easy to apply and wet sand to fill the grain. On most of the stocks I've done I use rottenstone or fine sanding pads to knock the sheen off and get more of a matte finish. That stock should look pretty sharp when you're done. I'm working on a Marlin 336 currently and having a heck of a time getting the dents out.