"H" or "X" Pipe advice Please

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My "H" pipe setup from tti

Full 2-1/2" from manifolds to rear


This is a correct exhaust as they were . Very Nice. This is excactly what I want on my duster I am building. But no clamps I use tabs. Male and female that weld on four on each joint. Then two short 1/4 20 bolts. The exhaust can be removed or put back on without any use of a hammer or any force. Take out the two bolts and slide it apart. The only clamps used are for the rear hangers .

Who sells factory 1970 exhaust 2 1/2 front pipes and 2 1/4 tail pipes with the correct bends? Including the bends that turn the tips up as they are suppose to so the drain holes work.
 
X vs.H

The X pipe flows better than the H because there is no 90 degree bend that the flow has to go around, just a gentle transition.

This is excactly what I ment by common sense. Think about what you just said and think real hard .Why would it flow through the H at all ?

The flow has no bend on and H. The X has an extra 4. The H pipe only connects the two for equalizing pressure. The exhaust does not flow through the H at all unless it needs to equalize. The X pipe, it has no choice it has got to flow through those four extra bends whether it wants to or not.

Stand both exhaust on end and pour something through. The H will go right down the pipe you pour it into and come out the same pipe. The X pipe if you pour it down one it will come out both. Its like having a car with duals that go to single and back to duals. I don't care what anyone states it is common sense.

On the new police cars they faced the H back at an angle on each side so it can't even enter the crossover pipe from flow dirrection. It is a pos. pressure pulsating from one side to another. Relieving the reverse pressure of the exhaust back to the motor.
 
Who sells factory 1970 exhaust 2 1/2 front pipes and 2 1/4 tail pipes with the correct bends? Including the bends that turn the tips up as they are suppose to so the drain holes work.

this place you're looking for is based out of Oregon state and is called accurate exhaust (or something close to that). The exhaust will look 100% factory.
 
H pipe doesnt reroute exhaust, it just equalizes the exhaust pulses, tones down the exhaust noise and resonance quite a bit. No flowmaster tin snare drum sound. Best H pipe setup would be 3 bolt flange connection so you dont have to pull slip fit apart, just unbolt it. My old 340 had an H and the exhaust sound was mellow. Check out the Pontiac Tempest 421 big block nostalgia drag car, it has headers out the front wheel wells and a 40 inch H pipe across the lower suspension!
 
from my armchair dyno i would only say that even if you get a full 15hp advantage, just know you can get a lot more from other upgrades. roller rockers 30. mopar ignition can give you 25. a new carb can even give you some depending on what you have now.
 
an x will you a lot unique er sound not as deep a throaty but a killer sound, that my opinion, will make people look at a mopar and go wow. i couldn tekk any hp diff when i switshed but diiff combos have diff results:D
 
I paid to have an H put in my cuda when I had the exhaust done years ago... when I put the TTIs on and cut it out a couple months ago, the H was nice and clean, not rusted at all... hmmm.... I cut it apart and noticed it was indeed there but there were no holes at all for the exhaust to enter it... LOL I got hosed!
 
Wow very nice looking exhaust Tony, very nice, bet it sounds awsume too.

Thanks!....sounds great

I haven't had any close up experience with "X" pipes so I can't comment
on them. What I do know is that I like the "H" setup.

Back in my Corvette days my '64 fastback had the "H" setup. GM did
that.

Here's some sound:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jaEu5O9zWU"]0622001853.3g2 - YouTube[/ame]
 
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