Hard blok filled b block question/ coolant hose to back of cylinder head.

[HOTMOPR]

Boost on what? What?

View attachment 1716498562
View attachment 1716498563

 

[MrCab]

Here's the plan, I need to get a little better flow between the cylinders so some water can get down to the outer part of the block.
On the driver's side I'm going to install a freeze plug in the return and drill a 9/16 or 5/8 hole instead of the 1.125 .
In my head that will let the cylinder head and block fill enough to push water through the crossover hose in back.
I am going to do the line in -10 an. Better to have enough volume than not enough.
What's on there is -6anView attachment 1716498532

What are you expecting that hose to do?
Is this motor going to be a drag race only build? If not, you do know that Mopar design the BB cooling systems to only return coolant from the blocks at the very rear passage up into the matching passages in the rear of the heads, correct?
If your planning on driving that motor on the street on gasoline you will probably end up killing it do to overheating it if you drive it more than 4 or 5 minutes at a time with several hours of sitting not running to allow the block to cool down to at least 120 F before driving it again. I do know at least one car guy in SO CA did a fill like yours on his street car on gasoline that would use a infra-red hand held heat gun to measure the lower block heat, he would stop driving it after driving from sitting over night when the block would read above 220 to 240 F and then let it cool down to at least 140F lower block temps, which depending on the outside air temps in SO CA, especially in the spring, summer and fall nights a long time
He never did that cement filling a street block again

 

[MOPARMAGA]

What are you expecting that hose to do?
Is this motor going to be a drag race only build? If not, you do know that Mopar design the BB cooling systems to only return coolant from the blocks at the very rear passage up into the matching passages in the rear of the heads, correct?
If your planning on driving that motor on the street on gasoline you will probably end up killing it do to overheating it if you drive it more than 4 or 5 minutes at a time with several hours of sitting not running to allow the block to cool down to at least 120 F before driving it again. I do know at least one car guy in SO CA did a fill like yours on his street car on gasoline that would use a infra-red hand held heat gun to measure the lower block heat, he would stop driving it after driving from sitting over night when the block would read above 220 to 240 F and then let it cool down to at least 140F lower block temps, which depending on the outside air temps in SO CA, especially in the spring, summer and fall nights a long time
He never did that cement filling a street block again

Okay, I misread what you wrote here. That hose is to cross over water. I overfilled the passenger side of the block accidentally wasn't paying attention and it went up to the bolt bosses.
It's going to go on the Dyno soon .
It's 13.25.1 , I run it on av gas.
It's for a race car.
It's my understanding that the full drain of the cylinder heads return out of the front of the block out of the large port in the front then out of the water pump / thermostat back to the radiator.

 

[MrCab]

Okay, I misread what you wrote here. That hose is to cross over water. I overfilled the passenger side of the block accidentally wasn't paying attention and it went up to the bolt bosses.
It's going to go on the Dyno soon .
It's 13.25.1 , I run it on av gas.
It's for a race car.
It's my understanding that the full drain of the cylinder heads return out of the front of the block out of the large port in the front then out of the water pump / thermostat back to the radiator.

I would bet money that the water will not flow through that hose at all, it will have equal pressure on both sides in my opinion from being filled, you might want to put a Tee in the middle of that hose with the T part pointing up with a cap on it so you can loosen it to bleed any air out of it after getting it warmed up
You did say that you had filled that block to the bottoms of the decks on both sides, correct? If so, no water will flow to the rear through the block to flow into the heads

 

[MOPARMAGA]

I would bet money that the water will not flow through that hose at all, it will have equal pressure on both sides in my opinion from being filled, you might want to put a Tee in the middle of that hose with the T part pointing up with a cap on it so you can loosen it to bleed any air out of it after getting it warmed up
You did say that you had filled that block to the bottoms of the decks on both sides, correct? If so, no water will flow to the rear through the block to flow into the heads

Well that's why I put the hose on the back of the heads , water will be able to circulate on the driver's side since I was paying attention and didn't over fill it on that side. I put a couple hours into trying to get some cross flow between the passenger side cylinders but I completely blocked the entry on that side. Assuming the bottom is enter, top is exit.
In theory the water will fill the drivers side, and head. I put a restrictor on the driver's side drain back so it would allow the water to cross over to the passenger side head and the little bit below the deck.
I could be completely wrong, but I will find out pretty soon how it works.
I also figured I would just crack the crossover hose open a little and let the air out.

 

[MrCab]

You may want to start thinking about replacing that block with a 400 to get the thicker main webbing and the bigger cylinder bore and thicker cylinder walls

 

[MOPARMAGA]

You may want to start thinking about replacing that block with a 400 to get the thicker main webbing and the bigger cylinder bore and thicker cylinder walls

If you were replying to me it is a 630 casting 400 block but That's the plan, id like to get the Indy wedge X block for the next build.

 

[MrCab]

That is a way better choice