Rocker oiling

[Newbomb Turk]

Side note, if anyone is interested in the files to print those drill guides, I have a Google drive folder with other car related 3d printed items and I can put the files up to share.

I don't want to commit to shipping 100 sets out, but I'd be willing to send some out for the cost of postage too, but only if you plan to actually use them.

Those guides make the job far easier. Wish I had thought of it myself but I’m not that smart.

 

[gzig5]

Side note, if anyone is interested in the files to print those drill guides, I have a Google drive folder with other car related 3d printed items and I can put the files up to share.

I don't want to commit to shipping 100 sets out, but I'd be willing to send some out for the cost of postage too, but only if you plan to actually use them.

That is a cool idea and it's nice of you to offer the files up, and even make them.

I am having a ton of fun with my new 3D printer and looking forward to applying it to my car projects, simple and complex. Need to get better with the CAD side. I envision a lot of custom wire and cable holders, brackets, plug wire harnesses, and maybe some components for a custom dash and console. Need to figure out if any of the new filiment materials can take the under hood heat and stand up to fuel. I see lots of opportunities for custom carb spacers with venturi's and other do-dads.

 

[TurboGLH]

Files are here. Remember that every printer is a little bit different, you might need to tweak the models by a +/- a few thou. to get the fit right.

Car Stuff - Google Drive

drive.google.com

Those guides make the job far easier. Wish I had thought of it myself but I’m not that smart.

Having access to a printer opens up your mind about what can be easily accomplished. I prototype a lot of my stuff in plastic before the first chip comes off a mill. Sometimes v1 is just right, but just as often I tweak some detail and it's just a matter of some cad and a print running overnight while I'm in bed.

That is a cool idea and it's nice of you to offer the files up, and even make them.

I am having a ton of fun with my new 3D printer and looking forward to applying it to my car projects, simple and complex. Need to get better with the CAD side. I envision a lot of custom wire and cable holders, brackets, plug wire harnesses, and maybe some components for a custom dash and console. Need to figure out if any of the new filiment materials can take the under hood heat and stand up to fuel. I see lots of opportunities for custom carb spacers with venturi's and other do-dads.

Heat, I've had good luck with ABS/ASA. I have custom fan brackets out of ABS for my electric fan that are mounted directly to the radiator and have lived 2+ years. I haven't tried fuel compatibility, but I have used nylon-carbon fiber for strength and PA6 has good resistance to gasoline.

https://fiberon.polymaker.com/product/pa6-cf20/

I've used that for high strength. We're using it for structural components this year on the robotics team I mentor on.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Looks nice. I wouldn’t worry too much about the pushlock hose and using any clamps. If the correct hose and fittings are used those things don’t come apart. If I remember later today I’ll pull one of my exterior oil lines off and show how I tapped it and make my own restrictors, just for reference.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Hard to see and even harder to photograph but I think I got it. The back of my heads are tapped to 1/8” NPT with a 90 brass fitting. Then an AN 1/8npt to -4 fitting. That’s where I install the restrictors. I flat face the fitting, drill and tap for 10-32 x 3/16 brass and drill the size I need. I’ve changed them 3 times to limit the oil more and im at .030 per side now and happy with it so far. On this round I noticed the restrictor backing out so I staked them in as well as blue loctite.

 

[DNasty777]

Hard to see and even harder to photograph but I think I got it. The back of my heads are tapped to 1/8” NPT with a 90 brass fitting. Then an AN 1/8npt to -4 fitting. That’s where I install the restrictors. I flat face the fitting, drill and tap for 10-32 x 3/16 brass and drill the size I need. I’ve changed them 3 times to limit the oil more and im at .030 per side now and happy with it so far. On this round I noticed the restrictor backing out so I staked them in as well as blue loctite.
View attachment 1716374338View attachment 1716374339View attachment 1716374340View attachment 1716374341

I’m using a 1/8 NPT to 4AN nitrous jet. Same idea, less drilling.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Hard to see and even harder to photograph but I think I got it. The back of my heads are tapped to 1/8” NPT with a 90 brass fitting. Then an AN 1/8npt to -4 fitting. That’s where I install the restrictors. I flat face the fitting, drill and tap for 10-32 x 3/16 brass and drill the size I need. I’ve changed them 3 times to limit the oil more and im at .030 per side now and happy with it so far. On this round I noticed the restrictor backing out so I staked them in as well as blue loctite.
View attachment 1716374338View attachment 1716374339View attachment 1716374340View attachment 1716374341

Are you tapping directly into the rocker shaft from that point or into the oil feed in the rocker stand?

 

[TT5.9mag]

Are you tapping directly into the rocker shaft from that point or into the oil feed in the rocker stand?

Not sure I understand your question.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

I was wanting to know how it’s connected to the rocker oiling from that location. Thanks!

 

[TT5.9mag]

I was wanting to know how it’s connected to the rocker oiling from that location. Thanks!

Post 11 here
Shaft vs Pushrod Oiling

 

[DNasty777]

I was wanting to know how it’s connected to the rocker oiling from that location. Thanks!

In my case, it goes to the bolt hole for the rearmost shaft hold down bolt. The bottom of the hole is about .150” lower than the bottom of the bolt and the hole I drilled breaks through about .075 from the bottom of that hole. The rocker hold down bolt is then center drilled from the bottom to a depth that intersects the center of the rocker shaft. Finally you cross drill the bolt on one side to allow oil into the shaft.

 

[TT5.9mag]

In my case, it goes to the bolt hole for the rearmost shaft hold down bolt. The bottom of the hole is about .150” lower than the bottom of the bolt and the hole I drilled breaks through about .075 from the bottom of that hole. The rocker hold down bolt is then center drilled from the bottom to a depth that intersects the center of the rocker shaft. Finally you cross drill the bolt on one side to allow oil into the shaft.

Same!

 

[TT5.9mag]

Once again really hard to photograph. But here is one of the cross drilled bolts I did and didn’t use.

 

[Danny Bellmore]

Before Pittsburghracer passed we had talked about rocker oiling. He posted some pictures of how he does it.

I now have some pictures of how I do it. Slightly different than John did it but it’s close to the same.

Of course, I can’t find the thread where he posted the pictures to compare them, but you can see what I do IF I want full time oil to the rockers. And if you don’t want to feed the rockers off of oil that should be going to the connecting rods.View attachment 1716372121

Here you can see I’ve drilled and tapped an 1/8th pipe hole in the vertical oil feed to the pressure gauge. I use #4 AN fittings and push lock hose.


View attachment 1716372122

In this picture you can see I drilled and tapped the oil feeds to the head. What you can’t see is when I installed the cam bearings, I clocked the two and four bearings so that there is no hole open to the feed from the main bearing or to the oil feed to the heads.

Once the bearings are in, I drill a 9/32 hole up through the block from the main bearing side up through the cam bearings. If you look close you’ll notice I also drilled up through the bearing and the block. I then tapped that hole 5/16. I’ll explain that in a bit. Make DAMN SURE you deburr the bearings.

If you do not clock and redrill the bearings you will have oil coming off the mains and from your feed hose.
One of the goals of this is to stop feeding the rockers from oil off the main bearings. That’s oil that should be going to the connecting rods.

Once the holes are drilled, you can make up your hoses as shown in the pictures. I use hose because this stuff moves around and I’m not a fan of hard lines in a place like this.

Since the cam bearings are clocked so no holes line up either for the feed from the main bearing or the feed to the heads, the hoses supply all the oil to the rockers ALL THE TIME. You MUST install a restricters in the system somewhere, especially if you have needle bearing rockers. In fact most rockers want and need a restriction but needle bearing rockers need less oil than a bushed or plain aluminum rocker will need.

When I install the restricters in my stuff I’ll take some pictures and post them.

I have a length of 2 inch by 3/16 aluminum that will be bolted down at the two and four cam bearings. That way, any oil slinging off the cam lobes will hit the aluminum and stay on the cam.

If you look close you’ll can see Chrysler left two openings between the lifters that lets oil go back to the pan.

I’m going to use a two part epoxy or some splash zone to fill those up so no oil can get through them.

Once they are blocked off the oil either has to stack up in the lifter valley until it will go into the timing cover or it must go to the rear and get to the sump there.

Once the oil finds its level it will always be there.

That’s what I do if I want full time oil to the rockers.

Also, this block has been tubed on the passenger side so the oil is blocked off to the lifters. The drivers side is blocked off by a 5/16 set screw under the number one main bearings. Again, this stops the leaks at the lifters and that makes more oil available to the mains and rods.

Also note that I used the vertical oil feed to the oil pressure gauge to feed the rockers. I could have picked the oil up from the passenger side lifter gallery but that is still taking oil that should be going to the rods.

The other reason for using that gallery is because I know if I have 40 pounds on the gauge I’ll have 40 pounds or very close to it at the rockers.

The way Chrysler did it, the rockers suck hind tit and get oil last. I put a gauge on the rocker shafts a long time ago and you’d see almost no oil pressure at the rockers at idle. That’s bad.

That’s how I get full time oil to the rockers and limit the oil leaks at the lifters and force as much of the oil as I can to go to the bearings.

Edit: if you are not comfortable drilling holes in places as above, get a scrap block and practice up until you get good and comfortable.

You can jack up a block right quick. This particular block is an X block and even I got a bit sweaty drilling and tapping an expensive block.

If you dick up the block it’s damn hard and near impossible to fix so practice up on junk blocks first.

I get how you did the tubing for the rockers. I guess I don't understand the clocking of the cam bearings on 2/4. I tubbed my old block and restricted the oiling on the opposite side and didn't clock the bearings. I also ruined 2/4 main bearings with under 40 1/8th passes. The rest of the bearings looked brand new. Should I have clocked the cam bearings?

 

[Newbomb Turk]

I get how you did the tubing for the rockers. I guess I don't understand the clocking of the cam bearings on 2/4. I tubbed my old block and restricted the oiling on the opposite side and didn't clock the bearings. I also ruined 2/4 main bearings with under 40 1/8th passes. The rest of the bearings looked brand new. Should I have clocked the cam bearings?

I want to block the oil from the cam up to the rockers and it has to be blocked after the cam but before the point where I installed the fitting into the gallery that feeds the rockers.

You can’t block the oil before it gets to the cam bearing or the cam bearing itself won’t get oil.

Since the oil to the rockers is fed semi directly from the main bearing, which also feeds the rod bearings and the point is to stop taking as much oil from the main bearing I don’t want to leave the oil a chance to go backwards from the feed to the rockers and the other way around.

I want the oil only able to go from the point I’m introducing it to the rockers the oil has to be blocked off somewhere after the cam bearing and before the point where the oil is now going into the gallery that feeds the rockers.

To that end, the most simple way to block the oil from the cam to the rockers is by clocking, or rotating the cam bearing so no holes in the bearing line up with any hole in the block.

The way the holes are clocked in the bearing makes it so you can’t just rotate the bearing and only have the hole from the main bearing be open and the hole to the rockers be blocked.

You make it so no holes line up, drill a new hole in the cam bearing from the main bearing.

I hope that makes sense. I’m got almost no sleep last night.

 

[Danny Bellmore]

I want to block the oil from the cam up to the rockers and it has to be blocked after the cam but before the point where I installed the fitting into the gallery that feeds the rockers.

You can’t block the oil before it gets to the cam bearing or the cam bearing itself won’t get oil.

Since the oil to the rockers is fed semi directly from the main bearing, which also feeds the rod bearings and the point is to stop taking as much oil from the main bearing I don’t want to leave the oil a chance to go backwards from the feed to the rockers and the other way around.

I want the oil only able to go from the point I’m introducing it to the rockers the oil has to be blocked off somewhere after the cam bearing and before the point where the oil is now going into the gallery that feeds the rockers.

To that end, the most simple way to block the oil from the cam to the rockers is by clocking, or rotating the cam bearing so no holes in the bearing line up with any hole in the block.

The way the holes are clocked in the bearing makes it so you can’t just rotate the bearing and only have the hole from the main bearing be open and the hole to the rockers be blocked.

You make it so no holes line up, drill a new hole in the cam bearing from the main bearing.

I hope that makes sense. I’m got almost no sleep last night.

Yes
I pulled my how to build a stroke book out and read the oiling g section. I get it now. Thank you.