New to Mopar, have had a few suggestions but one question, if the gas is evaping when the carb is hot then how come it starts right up after cooling off? Now, if vaporizing is the problem and I have to stay on the starter for 10 seconds before start, would an elect fuel pump solve the problem??? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Hard restart after hot
- Thread starter dusty1
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Is the car running hot?some times after driving and then shutting the car off the carb will drip into the intake until the pressure is gone.This would flood the motor. After driving the car and let it come up to temp, Take your breather off and watch for gas vapor fog coming out of the carb.
my slant six does this some times and I have to hold it to the floor to un flood the the heads.
my slant six does this some times and I have to hold it to the floor to un flood the the heads.
:thumleft::thumleft::thumleft:
Backtobasics
Well-Known Member
Sounds like vapor lock to me. Losey gas these days tends to boil in the lines, you get a vapor lock. Try insulating the lines from the fuel pump to carb, move line further away from engine block, or a spacer under carb, to keep the fuel from boiling in the carb.
jimmyray
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When I first bought my Duster, it would do the same thing. Or, it would start, and run for about 1 minute before it died.
Root Cause: The line from the mechanical fuel pump was resting on the manifold, and had the heater hoses on top of it as well. Car would sit hot, and fuel would boil in line, and lock. The carb had enough fuel in it to run for a short time, then die. Rerouted the line and the problem went away.
Root Cause: The line from the mechanical fuel pump was resting on the manifold, and had the heater hoses on top of it as well. Car would sit hot, and fuel would boil in line, and lock. The carb had enough fuel in it to run for a short time, then die. Rerouted the line and the problem went away.
pastortom1
Well-Known Member
Mine just the same...........I just bought a 1" carb spacer (probably overkill....1/2" would probably do for heat insulation), and the steel line is almost touching a heater hose, and it WAS touching the block........not good.
If there was one thing I learned early on, it was that "cool fuel" is the ticket for performance.........we always built "cool cans" for our bracket racers to keep the gas nice and cool,and were very careful in routing the lines to the carb..........treat the gas lines as if they're your fingers by a hot stove burner........keep them AWAY as much as possible, and be sure the carb has an insulating spacer (non-aluminum). :toothy10:
If there was one thing I learned early on, it was that "cool fuel" is the ticket for performance.........we always built "cool cans" for our bracket racers to keep the gas nice and cool,and were very careful in routing the lines to the carb..........treat the gas lines as if they're your fingers by a hot stove burner........keep them AWAY as much as possible, and be sure the carb has an insulating spacer (non-aluminum). :toothy10:
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
I also think it has to do with the fuel line. When hot-starting my 318 2-bbl it will start right up and run for about 10 seconds, then abruptly stall, but not after spraying gas all over the place out of the jets and bowl vent. I then crank the engine for a couple seconds and it starts again and I'm fine (unless it's REALLY hot outside). That ThermoQuad could not go on sooner, along with a re-routed fuel line...
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