Harmonic balancer install

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johnnymac2k6 said:
Boil it in a pot of water, then put it on with your wifes oven mits :)

the thermal expansion usually helps it slide on enough to then just install it with a bolt.

Don't Laugh!
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Just make sure you do it NOW, and use the damned xmas mitts... (I HATE those dumb mitts)

"No honey, that's not grease on Rudolph's nose, it's uh... because he was brown nosing Santa!"

or,

"Santa and the reindeer were all greasy because they were out in Santa's mancave changing the transmission fluid on the sleigh for the big day!"

And you can tell her that if she doesn't believe in Santa, she gets a lump of coal!

They should be in a drawer for most of the year, so all the grease stains shouldn't be an issue for at least 340 or 318 (at most) days a year! If you end up in the doghouse, you should be able to get some cheap replacement mits for her on Boxing day.
 
67redcudavert said:
Instead of using the balancer bolt to pull it in and maybe screwing up the threads, go to a fastener supply store and get a piece of high quality threaded rod, a quality nut to go with it and some heavy washers. If you really want to splurge on it, get a thrust bearing as well.

By doing that you have basically created your own homemade version of a store bought installing tool that you can reuse again and again.
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Is 3/4-16 threaded rod readily available in most places?

But yeah, you can make your own tool if you really want to.
 
I've used the crank bolt before but it always made nervous. For this build I bought two fine thread 3/4" bolts, cut them both near the threads and tig welded them together. A piece of 1/4" plate with a 3/4" hole, the two bolts welded together and a nut, cheap damper installation tool. I have about $8 and 30 minutes invested, I tried to buy all thread by the foot instead of stick but couldn't.
 
You won't find a good quality 3/4-16 threaded rod at the hardware store, they probably won't have 3/4-16 at all.

You will have to go to a bolt supply house for the good stuff.
 
Unbelievable. Two whole pages. Just buy the tool.
 
Yeah. You couldda gone to the parts store, rented the tool and gotten the job done in all this time. lol
 
You ever try and install a Fluiddamper brand with the bolt? I guarantee you'll strip the threads. Most SFI certified dampers go on tight! Buy the tool once and it will out live you and you will always have it when needed.
 
Two pages and no one has even recommended a tool. Where is this magical $28 tool? My searching came up with several in the +$45 range.
 
I have a Blue Point (Snap-On) balancer installer. Pricey, but worth it. Balancer goes on straight and perfect every time. Saved my buddy when he stripped the crank snout on a 502 Chevy he was working on,
 
I think this is the moroso tool...and I have a PRW installer and remover that is pretty neat....
 

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Daves69 said:
Longer bolt, two flat washers, and a nut.
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What he said. Do not try to install the balancer by screwing in the bolt. I use a long bolt and a nut/washer and screw the bolt in as far as it can go before the nut/ewasher keep it from going in any further. Then wrench on the nut to pull it in further. Back the nut all the way off , screw in the bolt further, and repeat.

If you use the bolt threads to pull in the balancer you run the risk of breaking the crank threads, especially on a cast crank.

And yeah, I heat the balancer in hot water too. There is a fit number for the balancer to the crank somewhere, and it is a tight fit as I recall.
 
Just replaced mine and used the loner tool from Autozone. OEM brand, worked great. My original went on with the bolt. The new one was much tighter and would not have worked without the tool. Took about 30 minutes including removal to mark tdc for the pass side timing tab.
 
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