Has anyone used the hurst drivelines crossmember?(TKO swaps)

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magnumdust

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I was looking at pictures and wonder just how stong that new upper piece is. The picture makes it look a little flimsy.

a-body_crossmember_floorassembly_large.jpg
 

OK, works for me now.

I wouldn't run that for two seconds with torsion bars. I'd run it only marginally with coilovers.
 
Once the bottom piece is bolted in place, it looks to me like it would be pretty strong. JMO.
 
So it's meant to cut out the original cross member piece, and bolt these 2 into place it appears. The idea seems legit, but you almost want a tight, strong upper bracket to connect the torsion bar piece welded in, wouldn't you?
 
That looks like either 3/16 or 1/4 plate. How thick is the original upper cross member? Isn't it just thick sheet metal?
 
It has very little relative cross sectional thickness at the base of the arch that goes up over the trans (No flange on the edge that I can see). Plus, it's a rectangle instead of triangulated, which allows the whole thing to parallelogram. The only thing that gives the system any real tension strength across the bottom mount bracket is the short vertical section that runs transverse to car under the motor mount (I assume it's there. the website pics are small), but two bolts per side offers little in the way of controlling vertical flex.

Plus I don't like that the bolt holes in the factory crossmember don't have sleeves (at least as far as I remember) so if anything comes loose, it'll wallow out in a hurry and since it's loaded with the T-bars, that can be bad with aggressive driving.

There are many better ways to do it, but I've not looked at it first hand and based on the pics, I wouldn't run it.

Who knows....Maybe Hurst ran all the FEA on it and it's good....
 
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