Have YOU Run 5x100 and had Failure First Hand?

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one mile

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HAVE YOU , no guess ,no hear say, no speculation , no friend of a friend etc. I really need to lay this to rest once and for all. NO OFFENCE TO ANYONE WHATSOEVER ! It is a big game changer for me and alot of money and time but I am thinking of safety first for my build for my Daughter. She has finally gotten excited about Her car and now has HEARD (read) on this Forum which I rely heavly on for First Hand knowledge, that Her Wheels will not work. I do not care about Change of course in the build just is it REALLY needed ? Thank you all, Tim :thumleft:
 
At the risk of looking dumb, what kind of car, what make of wheel, alloy of wheel, and can you post link to what info you are referring to?
 
HAVE YOU , no guess ,no hear say, no speculation , no friend of a friend etc. I really need to lay this to rest once and for all.Thank you all, Tim :thumleft:

For what it's worth. I ran 5X100 on my 67 Cuda for about 18 years and sold them to a friend when I changed to 5X4.5 pattern about 4 years ago. They are on his truck and they haven't failed yet. Never had an issue of any kind with them.
 
5x100mm bolt pattern (BP) wheels WILL NOT fit 5x4" BP hubs
5x4" BP wheels WILL NOT fit 5x100mm BP hubs

4" on a tape measure is 102mm...

NOT only do the BP's not work (like a 1/16"-1/8" off) BUT the hub of the modern wheel will not fit the front drum hub of the early car and visa verse' the early wheels will not fit modern hubs (90% of modern wheels are "hub centric" meaning the wheel is centered on the bearing hub instead of the bolts/nuts centering the wheel)

Example I tried fitting 14" SBP chrome reverse on my old mk3 (1996) VW Golf GTI that is 5x100. It did not work at all unless you want to only run 4 nuts/bolts (and pound 1 stud out) and have the wheels off center...

There is a way around the BP problem BUT it likely isn't cheap and it could wreck the wheels in the process - redrilling the bolt pattern is possible (by a professional) SO you could get the BP problem fixed BUT getting the redrilled wheel to fit the front hub is something that IMO is not possible - maybe spacers would help but then the safety is being compromised

I'd save the aggravation of fitting newer wheels and put SBP Crager S/S's on it..
 
Look at a wheel web site, like tire rack.com, what do the wheel makers say? They have major liablity on fitment and safety. I personally have no first hand knowlege, but I don't take chances :read2:with wheels, tires, or brakes.
 
There are too many variables or factors involved. Whatever wheel you use must have a mating surface and center register hole that fits flush against the mounting surface on whatever brake hubs you have.
I can provide examples of where these factors showed their true colors.
First is wheel adapters. Those adapters did have a flat continuos mating surface but its outer diameter would sit on top of the weights welded on some brake drums. Those who didn't grind to fit the adapter flat against the drum had adapter failure. that's how the adapters got a bad reputation long ago.
Second is the steel Magnum road wheels. Truely a poorly designed wheel. If you look at the back of that wheel you find its has no continuous mating surface. It has 5 seperate sort of triangle shaped flats stamped in the steel with voids in between. No center register fitment in those wheels either. Their lug holes would woller out over time to the point where the end of a taper/acorn nut hits the hub before supporting the wheel. This is so common that there are repair kits available for the Magnum road wheels.

OEM steel wheels have 2 continuous rings stamped inside and outside the lug circle that meet the hub mounting surface allowing the lug nuts to apply force to a continuous mating surface before bottoming out.
Best avdise I can offer is ignore a slight diffence in bolt circle for now and check the wheels fit to whatever its sitting against and make sure its center register is a proper fit.
 
This has all come from the "General early A discusion area". Title on it is; "16's on a '65 Barracuda". my Daughter has finally gotten involved in HER Car build here on the Forum and showed the wheels she had picked out (5x100 bolt pattern) and now is worried about fitment from some of the input she read in response. I rely heavly on this forum and the info it provides to healp me build her the "Dream Car" she wants. I can't run out and buy a new "Benz" or whatever, so she wanted us to build a car togeather. I am not upset but just like cuda67 said "First hand no issues" that is all I ask . I am not upset I just need 1st hand facts, Please!
Thanks to everyone, Tim (DAD) :thumleft:
 
Just buy rims that actually fit the car, they are available. Even if NO ONE here has personally had a failure, it doesn't mean it can't happen.

Do you want there to be any additional chance that the wheel studs on your daughter's car will shear off while she's driving because the lugs were side stressed by the tapered lug nuts pulling them from a 5x4" pattern in to a 5x100?

Maybe its just the 4 years of engineering school talking, but there's no way in hell I'd mess with it. Regardless of how many anecdotal "Ive done it for x number of years without an issue" stories you might get.

Just my opinion.
 
Just buy rims that actually fit the car, they are available. Even if NO ONE here has personally had a failure, it doesn't mean it can't happen.

Do you want there to be any additional chance that the wheel studs on your daughter's car will shear off while she's driving because the lugs were side stressed by the tapered lug nuts pulling them from a 5x4" pattern in to a 5x100?

Maybe its just the 4 years of engineering school talking, but there's no way in hell I'd mess with it. Regardless of how many anecdotal "Ive done it for x number of years without an issue" stories you might get.

Just my opinion.
:sign3: (no not actually calling you stupid just agreeing with you in a funny way)
 
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4x100mm4x3.93in4x107.95mm4x4.25in4x110mm4x4.33in4x114.3mm4x4.50in4x130mm4x5.12in4x140mm4x5.51in5x100mm5x4.00in5x107.3mm5x4.22in5x108mm5x4.25in5x110mm5x4.33in5x112mm5x4.41in5x114.3mm5x4.50in5x115mm5x4.53in5x120mm5x4.72in5x120.7mm5x4.75in5x127mm5x5.00in5x130mm5x5.12in5x135mm5x5.31in5x139.7mm5x5.50in5x150mm5x5.91in5x165.1mm5x6.50in6x114.3mm6x4.50in6x115mm6x4.53in6x127mm6x5.00in6x132mm6x5.20in6x135mm6x5.31in6x139.7mm6x5.50in7x150mm7x5.91in8x165.1mm8x6.50in8x170mm8x6.69in
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As you can see by this chart 5X100mm is 5X4.00inch

Outside of a truck load of spam :spam1:, I don't see anything.

But it doesn't really matter anyway.

100mm = 3.937"

4" = 101.6mm

They are NOT the same.
 
The difference is less than 1/16th inch. It will fit and does fit with no issues and no documented failures, which is the original question.
 
The difference is less than 1/16th inch. It will fit and does fit with no issues and no documented failures, which is the original question.

No documented failures posted here so far.

I get it. You ran the wrong bolt pattern wheel on your car for 18 years. Your wheel studs didn't break. How many miles was that? How many potholes did you hit? Any racing? Slicks? How wide were your tires? How much horsepower? Auto or manual trans? New wheel studs or factory? What was the taper on the lug nuts? What brand and model rims? Was the car garaged or outside? Ever exposed to salt? Driven in the rain? How many times were the lug nuts torqued? Air ratchet or hand tightened?

People have jumped off the Golden Gate bridge and lived through it too. Doesn't mean its a good idea, or that others should expect the same result. It just means that under a certain set of conditions its possible.

The problem with asking if anyone's ever had it happen is that it doesn't matter how many people say they haven't had a problem, it only takes one failure. What odds do you want? If a hundred people responded they did it and had no issues, that's only 100 to 1 your wheel won't fall off. Good enough? So far we have 1...

Sorry to be a jerk, but this is a safety issue. Why not just buy the right bolt pattern?
 
HAVE YOU , no guess ,no hear say, no speculation , no friend of a friend etc. I really need to lay this to rest once and for all. NO OFFENCE TO ANYONE WHATSOEVER ! It is a big game changer for me and alot of money and time but I am thinking of safety first for my build for my Daughter. She has finally gotten excited about Her car and now has HEARD (read) on this Forum which I rely heavly on for First Hand knowledge, that Her Wheels will not work. I do not care about Change of course in the build just is it REALLY needed ? Thank you all, Tim :thumleft:

The question is...do you want your daughter to be the first to have a failure? It looks like you answered your own question.

Quit being a cheapskate and buy the right wheels. If you can't afford the right wheels, change hobbies.
 
certain things you dont mess with. you do them 100%. 100% correct no room for error.

seat belts. fuel lines. brakes. wheels/lugs.

other stuff is important. trans shield, cage, etc. if you race.
 
I did not want any Drama or Name calling.....as you see above we have a well diversified group that have also a wide range of knowledge. Also you will see some say yes and some say no , some with insults and some with clear knowledge. This is how we reach our own decisions of what we should do or not do, and we learn opinions of people and what their knowledge "Limits" may be. I DO NOT KNOW that is why I have asked this question on an open Forum so everyone can have their input and I welcome it. so lets leave the colorful language and insults aside and Help me reach my own conclusion as to where she gets the wheels she picked out or DAD will have to over ride it. I know they will work, I have walked up to people and asked first hand at Auto Cross races and they say it's ok. I ran the S*** out of a '67 Camaro when I was younger and stupid with Mini Lights made for a Jag not a "Chevy" ,8 in. Slicks ,side stepping the Clutch, running at night through the mountains the whole deal(4 years). I am now wanting to know the origional question. Does ANYONE know of a Known Issue. Thank you for all your input good or bad....Tim
 
I have never read nor heard of ANYONE ever having an issue using a 5 x 100 wheel on a 5 x 4 hub. with a conical seat lug nut , I personally would drive the **** out it. I have used 5 x 100 to 5 x 114.3 non-hub centric wheel adapters for years with trouble free service
 
I have changed Dodge Rampages to rear wheel drive with a-body rears. Its a bolt in. Then I ran Daytona Shelby wheels on the rear to match the front. Built V8 autos. No problems .

Also cut the bead short on one wheel and long on another. Made one wheel from two and made a set of 15x9 Shelby Z wheels and put wider drag radials on . Doughnuts , Launches and hard turns into drifts. never broke a stud and never vibrated. I am Doing a 440 in an omni for a friend going to do the samething with a mustang rear suspension brackets and hardware do to no room for leafs. Use Moroso studs with correct threaded lugs. Do not force metric lugs on stock 7/16 studs they will go on but they will come loose Damage the wheel and break.

My daughter has SBP rallies on her Neon. I saw this on a orange neon in Mopar Muscle nick named "T/A 4 Pack" with a AAR style hood. So I did the same

2mm in a 5 bolt circle wasn't enough to worry about on a indexer in a mill. so i didn't waist my time. By the time you torque the lugs they seat themselves. Torque them in increments the first time to seat them evenly.

I have the Equipment at home and also access to a complete machine shop through my son. If I saw a problem I would have corrected it at no cost.

Remember don't go cheap. If you feel your kid's head is worth $5.00 then you get them a $5.00 Helmet. I never had a problem but It's your call. Steve
 

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Just buy rims that actually fit the car

Yeah, I don't understand why this is an even a question. Sometimes you have to make a compromise. Your daughter will thank you when her wheels stay on the car.

Even if someone had first hand experience with failure or not, why would trust an opinion over the internet? And if there was a failure, would it change your mind?

Most automotive fasteners (especially wheel studs and lug nuts) are designed for fairly specific applications. You're increasing your risk of failure exponentially whenever you stray from an intended purpose.

And just from an aesthetic point of view, hard to imagine any 5 x 100 wheel would look good on an old car anyway.
 
The studs on the a-bodies are 7/16. Aren't the 100mm studs right at 1/2". Some place on this site there is a post where a member listed some very specfic information with pictures on using the 100mm wheels on our cars but I can't find it. How about the issue with the FWD offset being totally different?

Would I trust something that won't mount on the hub register correctly on my daughter's car.... No, because I love her more than the $$$$.

Would I try them on a beater a-body that I am driving? Maybe but they would be checked all the time and the lugnut torque checked. I wouldn't rely on any information that is posted in forums when it is such a debated thing, I would check things out for myself.
 
1.6 MM difference.........I wonder what the manufacturing tolerance is? Common sense tells me the difference would probably be a non-issue but it is something to think about.
 
As you can see by this chart 5X100mm is 5X4.00inch Home ATV Bolt PatternsFAQTech TipsContact Us@import url(http://www.google.com/cse/api/branding.css);

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I don't think I would trust an ATV bolt pattern to compare on cars that are being driven down the highway.

If the wheels are made to interchange between 100mm and 4" why do the wheel manufactures not show both cars? Think about it.
 
How much do you value her life? I understand that others have said it is not a problem but when safety is involved.......
 
Slightly off topic, I have noticed that some on-line parts houses have started showing all dimensions as metric; that is, they list 318cid as 5.2L, etc. That's fine for engine displacement, but they also show wheels, brake drums and hubs with dimensions converted to metric and rounded off, which is basically what that ATV chart did. So you see mixed-dimension absurdities listed, like "9-inch brake drum for 5x100mm wheel", which is nonsense -- such a beast never existed.

On the current debate, it seems to me that cone lugnuts would not distribute the load equally if each one is not absolutely concentric with the hole -- this, of course, is impossible, even with a mere 2mm discrepancy. Studs are not designed to withstand asymmetric side loading. And without a perfectly-sized center register, there would be no guarantee the wheel would mount perfectly centered on the lugs -- even one millimeter off would probably cause a vibration.

If you had an alloy wheel, with enough meat to be redrilled, and use the mag-type lugs with the sleeve that fits the hole precisely, that would be no problem. But I can't see any cone-type lug being satisfactory. Sure, you can get away with it if you personally align and tighten each wheel carefully by hand. But is your daughter competent to do that? You know the corner garage or alignment shop isn't.
 
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