Head lights

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Eric Pearson

73purpule duster
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Wanted to know what the concencus is using for headlight replacement bulbs on Dusters, any input would be great
 
Try Toyota part 8111060P70 - it's a conversation kit they made for older Land Cruisers with some top notch parts at a bargain price.
 
I used 2012 Jeep Wrangler head lamps on my '71 Dart GT. I also put them on relays at the same time.

Wrangler Headlamps.jpg
 

Your Duster came with either 6012(70-71) or 6014 ('73-74)sealed beam headlamps.
If you can find some old, unused, 6012 lamps in good shape, they will work as good as they ever did.
Ditto the 6014 but the higher wattage beams will likely - eventually cause some heating of the a connector terminal, and/or trip the breaker. Takes a long time and some oxidation on the terminals but its the downside to higher wattage lamps.

Skipping other sealed beam options and getting to the heart of it. If you plan to use the headlights and want decent light pattern then (a) install a relay harness (b) buy a new 'H4" lamps and good bulbs. The Kioto mentioned above from Toyota is a great deal if you can wait a few weeks as they are shipping as available. (c) aim the lamps.
Alternatively, you can look at one of the LED options that actually put light on the road where needed (there's only about three and they are not cheap). They look weird or futuristic - depending on your taste. LOL. Not everyone loves the light patterns either, but most people don't notice.

Lots of threads on both approaches.
 
On my Duster i run Night Hawk sealed beams and a relay kit and am very happy . My lights are every bit as good or maybe even better than my wifes newer Honda .
 
Your Duster came with either 6012(70-71) or 6014 ('73-74)sealed beam headlamps.
If you can find some old, unused, 6012 lamps in good shape, they will work as good as they ever did.
Ditto the 6014 but the higher wattage beams will likely - eventually cause some heating of the a connector terminal, and/or trip the breaker. Takes a long time and some oxidation on the terminals but its the downside to higher wattage lamps.

Skipping other sealed beam options and getting to the heart of it. If you plan to use the headlights and want decent light pattern then (a) install a relay harness (b) buy a new 'H4" lamps and good bulbs. The Kioto mentioned above from Toyota is a great deal if you can wait a few weeks as they are shipping as available. (c) aim the lamps.
Alternatively, you can look at one of the LED options that actually put light on the road where needed (there's only about three and they are not cheap). They look weird or futuristic - depending on your taste. LOL. Not everyone loves the light patterns either, but most people don't notice.

Lots of threads on both approaches.
I have had h4 conversions in a few of my 70s cars but never the led type. I have thought about using the led on my duster as don't mind the look given running hemi and going pro street look. How does the light compare between the two types? If looks isnt an issue
 
I have had h4 conversions in a few of my 70s cars but never the led type. I have thought about using the led on my duster as don't mind the look given running hemi and going pro street look. How does the light compare between the two types? If looks isnt an issue
Just to be clear, the LED lamps are standalone units. They don't go in an H4 housing.
I've seen testing by people legimately interested in the subject comment on 'artifacts'. My understanding is these are areas of slightly more (or less) lighting that can appear as spots or patterns within the beam. Only super obvious to the avcerage Joe like you and me when you have a nice flat road or car park to see the pattern. Even back then, I think the most expensive lamps, JW Speaker's had the least of these.

Whether the differences in lighting between bulb and LED are technically significant or more a personal preference (subjective), I suspect more the latter. I know for a lot of other applications, I personally find LED lighting is often very directional, which I often don't care for. Even though my hand held lamps are handy under the hood (bonnet), they often create shadows or at least enough contrast, that a flourescent or even an old school drop light is better. Same thing with some new street lights in my local park - and they create glare. Boo. Anyways I suspect from a driver's point of view, the better LED systems minimize these problems to a point they aren't noticible (when the lamps are properly aimed).

Let me see if any of the old links I had bookmarked are still good.
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edit:
Here's the thread with photos by "Hilldweller"

I think the Trucklite's early version near the bottom of the 1st page shows the sort of pattern issues that can occur even from a company making the effort to do it right.

For the JW Speaker 8700 go to post 71
(note: Comparisons to the Z-beams. This was a Cibie headlamp that is no longer available. In today's market costs about the same the same as the JW Speakers - when you can find 'em)

Revised trucklights posted here. Unfortunateley Photobucket disappeared the photos. But Hilldweller describes X artifacts.
 
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On my Duster i run Night Hawk sealed beams and a relay kit and am very happy . My lights are every bit as good or maybe even better than my wifes newer Honda .
Unfortunately the Nighthawk H6024NH made now is not like the ones you bought.

Quick visual reference for the old (good) and the new (bad)
 
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Try Toyota part 8111060P70 - it's a conversation kit they made for older Land Cruisers with some top notch parts at a bargain price.
I think I got one off Ebay, a complete kit including the lamps for like $45.
Easy to install, as it plugs into our existing headlight wiring and makes a big difference in nighttime driving.
 
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