Head rebuild pricing?

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chlngr1970

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The 440 I just acquired came with 452 heads. What is a fair price to pay to have them rebuilt? It's been more than a decade since I last had a set of heads rebuilt ( and they were off a 454 :insec: ) and am a little out of touch pricing wise. I have a little machine shop not to far from my house and was considering dropping off the heads to have them redone, but don't know what to expect. Any advise on what I should walk away from?

j
 
Cleaned, inspected, head face trued, new guides, new exhaust seats, minimum 3 angle valve job, new springs keepers and retainers. $400/head.

Terry
 
Check out www.aeroheadracing.com
It is a division of Indy Cylinder Head.
A set of 452 heads reconditioned for 599.00.
They can also do porting for a moderate fee.

---from their website---
"Chrysler Heads, These heads are reconditioned and come assembled with a "like new" apperance and quality, with all new Aeromaxx parts installed and a milled deck surface. These heads have outstanding features that include premium one-piece, stainless steel, high flow valves, heat treated and machined steel retainers and valve locks, seals, bronze wall valve guides, 3 angle valve job, and heavy duty valve springs."

One plus is you would still have your heads to sell.
I have a friend that has them on his 72 440 Runner. It has a very nice torque curve and he is really happy with them.
I intend to use them on a 440 I have planned.
 
j, demon's estimate is very much in the ballpark depending on where you live, who does the work and what additional work (if any) such as magging/bowl/port work is done to them as well as additional parts needed for them (ex. valves). Sometimes the cost can get up there and probably the reason so many people shell out a few extra bucks and go with aftermarket heads like Edelbrocks. BTW: I am not very familiar with the 452s. Are they the later model closed chamber heads that are known for being a little restrictive?

I am not sure what you are planning on doing with this motor but if you share that information, we can probably give you some better feedback.
 

GTX, the 452's came on scene in 75-76 and were on par with the 906's for port design and both were open chambered. The 452's were also supplied with hardened valve seats for the unleaded fuel

Terry
 
Thanks for ther info guys.

j, it looks like you have a couple of options here and a little homework to do. Let us know what you decide.
 
I am building a stroker 400 for my 1970 Duster. I want a solid 11 second street car. I am shooting for large CID so I can go lower compression for pump gas, and maybe a smaller cam for streetability. The plan is as follows...
  • 400 Block
  • 440 stroker kit for 451 CID ( or 512 )
  • 292/.509 MP cam ( was told this is too small :( )
  • 6 Pac
  • 9.7:1 comp
  • Auto trans
  • 3000 converter
  • manual disc/11" drum brakes
  • Manual steering
  • Dana 60 4.10 sure grip
This is intended to be a street car that I can run consistant 11 second times. I don't see that being a problem.

j
 
I am building a stroker 400 for my 1970 Duster. I want a solid 11 second street car. I am shooting for large CID so I can go lower compression for pump gas, and maybe a smaller cam for streetability. The plan is as follows...
  • 400 Block
  • 440 stroker kit for 451 CID ( or 512 )
  • 292/.509 MP cam ( was told this is too small :( )
  • 6 Pac
  • 9.7:1 comp
  • Auto trans
  • 3000 converter
  • manual disc/11" drum brakes
  • Manual steering
  • Dana 60 4.10 sure grip
This is intended to be a street car that I can run consistant 11 second times. I don't see that being a problem.

j


I'd change the 6 pack for a 850 DP'r holley or Demon and a edelbrock performer RPM manifold. It'll probably run better and be a whole lot cheaper.

Terry
 
I think if you're looking for old school, you've found it. but you ca do a lot better. Also, the 451 is fine with the 452 casting heads. The 505 will not be even close. I can get a good set of iron heads out of teh shop without dropping $600+ per head complete and ready to run. That's a 5 angle Serdi valve job tho.
 
I think if you're looking for old school, you've found it. but you ca do a lot better. Also, the 451 is fine with the 452 casting heads. The 505 will not be even close. I can get a good set of iron heads out of teh shop without dropping $600+ per head complete and ready to run. That's a 5 angle Serdi valve job tho.
What kind of price are you talking, and is it a national thing, or local? Could I get a good set of heads done here in WA for a 512? If not, could i build a respectable 451 to run solid 11s and still be able to go to the store/show/track/car club meeting?

j
 
chlgr It's local to me. There are HUGE differences in the quality of head work. I actually own a Petersen TCM-25 guide and seat machine with the better head fixture and a Souix valve grinder. But even at my best (which isn't "pro" level IMO) I cannot do what the Serdi machine with the right machinist can. If a shop uses tapered pilots, or stones to cut seat angles, the heads will run. Some might even run well. But there's no way to compare a quality valve job by a good combo of man and equipment and the results are on the dyno, and after some miles when oil starts getting used. The cost problem comes part in parcel with using good equipment. They use a tight fit in the guide to index the seat cutter, so I always need to install new guides or liners. Unleaded seats go in all my heads because I know what sunk valves are caused by and the fuels are getting worse for it. Then you got cutting the guides down and spring seats cut larger because most modern cams use double springs. Then you got your stainless valves, matched springs, retainers, and locks...lol. It all adds up. Last, if you want to mill them, or need the extra smooth surface for MLS, it's more $$. Now, the end result is a modern head assembly that will run and make great power for the life of the engine. But itdoesnt come for free. A good set of upgraded iron from the shop I use will cost about 80% of OOTB RPMs, a little closer to OOTB Stealths. But I always correct the OOTB heads and usually need to replace the retainers and springs at minimum. So it's about $400 less for iron heads vs entry level aluminums.
 
I'll talk to the folks here in the MOPAR clubs and see who they recommend for machine work. I think that would be my best bet. Paying the bucks my take me longer, but I understand the value in it, so I don't mind paying it. The one thing I know about the guy around the corner is, he has many trophies in his shop from the local 1/4 mile track...many years running. He also has a few records as I understand. The down side is, his shop is full of Chevy's ;)

j
 
It makes very little difference what make engine it is. A good engine guy can get you where you need to be. Ask around, and make "how much was it?" the 3rd or 4th question, not the first...lol
 
It makes very little difference what make engine it is.
Hence the reason for the winkey ;)
A good engine guy can get you where you need to be. Ask around, and make "how much was it?" the 3rd or 4th question, not the first...lol
Talking to the guys at the shop around the corner, the first thing I said is I am looking for a good place to have some machine work done. Their reply was, and I quote "You better keep looking then, cause I suck!" :D I chatted with them for a while, and that was when I found out about the trophies. One thing I have always believed, is if a shop is good ( no matter what you do ) you will be busy. Their parking lot is ALWAYS full. Hopefully, they will have time to work on my little project :( Anyway...tomorrow there is some work going on, so while I wait for that, I can get some info...

j
 
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