Head repair

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had my SR's welded up before porting just to avoid that. like others have said weld it up. welding is one and done, never have to worry about it again.
 
oldkimmer said:
The porter was originally gonna weld it but he says now that the tig will blow a hole thru it and have a big mess to fix. Kim
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That’s what happened to the cnc’d Indy head that leaked that my buddy gave me. I took it to be welded and pressure tested three times and I gave up on it. His was an exhaust port so it had to be welded. My buddy took a good cnc’d head (245 small block) and sent it to Ryan (shadydale) then don’t ask me why but he sent it to another head porter for more work. Yep she leaked. Now I have both leakers that I will try to fix.
 
pittsburghracer said:
That’s what happened to the cnc’d Indy head that leaked that my buddy gave me. I took it to be welded and pressure tested three times and I gave up on it. His was an exhaust port so it had to be welded. My buddy took a good cnc’d head (245 small block) and sent it to Ryan (shadydale) then don’t ask me why but he sent it to another head porter for more work. Yep she leaked. Now I have both leakers that I will try to fix.
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Are u gonna weld them or epoxy them? Kim
 
pittsburghracer said:
It’s leaking in the exhaust port so they have to be welded. There isn’t an epoxy out there that will take that heat and last.
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Have u heard of aluminum cold spray. Wonder if that will work? Here they fixed screw holes in a Center line rim. Kim

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Jadaharabi said:
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it stands for disagrees. Which is something 1971 Cy Dart does a lot of in the news and political section.
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Yeah I know what it's for lol, I got disagree on a comment & it wasn't disagreeable so the man fixed it....will you please take that x off & I'm deleting that post.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Yeah I know what it's for lol, I got disagree on a comment & it wasn't disagreeable so the man fixed it....will you please take that x off & I'm deleting that post.
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I did that to show you what a red X was. No panties in a bind now.
 
You might consider pressing a thin wall copper tube if its at the push rod pinch. You would want to use sealer or maybe loctite. Lots of heads have been repaired this way. I'm not a fan of epoxy even clear coated.
 
It would be wise to back that hole up with a piece of formed copper pipe while welding it up. Should help keep it from blowing out. I repaired a cast aluminum BMW oil pan that fell off the jack and had a 1 1/4" diameter hole punched in it. The pan was about 1/8" thick. I clamped a 1/2 thick copper plate to the pan and proceeded to tig the hole closed. Built it up a 3/8" or so and then threaded 5/8-18 to take a stainless steel bushing the drain plug would ride in . Not quite sure how it works, but the copper provides a physical wall for the molten metal to form against as you work your way around. The aluminum will not stick to the copper. Doing it in the port will be tricky but the same concept should work. Unfortunately I can't find the "before" pic, but it was a big hole.

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