Header-ache

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Ozzy

Ozzy

Well-Known Member
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Location
Harborcreek, PA
I bought some Summit headers for my 1967 Barracuda. Have the engine lifted, and I'm ready to put them in, but it looks like there's no way they'll fit. The center link and torsion bar both seem to be in the way, especially on the drivers side. I'm sure someone out there has done this before. I double checked my order to make sure I ordered the right ones.
 
I know that kind of headers the steering linkage
go thru the headers

you need to remove the steering linkage install the headers
and reinstal the steering linkage
 
Ozzy said:
I bought some Summit headers for my 1967 Barracuda. Have the engine lifted, and I'm ready to put them in, but it looks like there's no way they'll fit. The center link and torsion bar both seem to be in the way, especially on the drivers side. I'm sure someone out there has done this before. I double checked my order to make sure I ordered the right ones.
Click to expand...

They'll go, but with some effort. The centerlink (driver side end) needs to be disconnected and it goes through the header. You will more than likely need to make a small dent in a couple of spots where they hit.
 

That's what I was afraid of. Thanks, Bad Sport. Passenger side seems less of an issue?
 
Ozzy said:
Passenger side seems less of an issue?
Click to expand...

Yeah, mine dropped right in.

The driver side is a pain, and you may invent a few new words, but you can do it. It helps to get the front of the car up fairly high (as safely as possible, block it real good) then undo the motor mounts, and raise the front of the engine using a board under the oil pan and jack it up just a few inches (BE CAREFUL ABOUT YOUR DISTRIBUTOR CAP). The driver side needs to go in from the bottom.

Don't forget to drain of a bit of coolant if for some reason you need to pull the studs from the front or the back, those holes are wet.
 
Bad Sport said:
Yeah, mine dropped right in.

The driver side is a pain, and you may invent a few new words, but you can do it. It helps to get the front of the car up fairly high (as safely as possible, block it real good) then undo the motor mounts, and raise the front of the engine using a board under the oil pan and jack it up just a few inches (BE CAREFUL ABOUT YOUR DISTRIBUTOR CAP). The driver side needs to go in from the bottom.

Don't forget to drain of a bit of coolant if for some reason you need to pull the studs from the front or the back, those holes are wet.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I noticed that. Instructions say to put some sealant on those bolts that replace the studs. Thanks again. I'll be busy tomorrow.
 
Ozzy said:
Yeah, I noticed that. Instructions say to put some sealant on those bolts that replace the studs. Thanks again. I'll be busy tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Lol, plan a few hours. I think it took me about 4 hours to get the driver side fitted and in and all buttoned up. Passenger side, maybe an hour.
 
That type of header hangs real low on the drivers side. Do yourself a favor and fab a heavy skid plate for that header.
And you guys give me crap for wanting to run stock manifolds.
 
Bad Sport said:
They'll go, but with some effort. The centerlink (driver side end) needs to be disconnected and it goes through the header. You will more than likely need to make a small dent in a couple of spots where they hit.
Click to expand...
Exactly on the dents and through the header. Just did the same on my 68 Barracuda. Had to remove and plug the grease fitting too. Problem with these headers is that the pivot points are so close to the header that the grease gets cooked out. Save your grease fitting and lube often for longer life. I put my motor in from the bottom up mounted to the K Member but I had a lift and a forklift with a rotating side shifter.
 
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Bad Sport said:
Lol, plan a few hours. I think it took me about 4 hours to get the driver side fitted and in and all buttoned up. Passenger side, maybe an hour.
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That's not bad,Bruce... I installed a set of Flowtech cheapies,compared to Summit 's headers.... they were a lot more headaches. ....
 
iw378 said:
Keep us posted and have fun/ good luck
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Okay, they're in. It actually wasn't bad at all. Since the motor was still hooked up to the hoist, I just lifted it back up and tucked them in. I had just replaced the tie rods, pitman arm (and ball joints), so they were easy to pop back off to get the crosslink through. Thanks to everyone for your help, and sorry I took so long to get back to you.
Now I have the motor in, and the wire harness back in (I painted the engine bay and the motor itself). It all looks great! BUT...I am getting no power to anything. I'm pretty sure I hooked everything back up the way it was, but even the headlights are not coming on. I thought it might be that the paint was blocking the grounds, so I sanded the connections clean, but still no power. Electrical is not my thing. I know the basics, but I'm not sure what the problem could be here. Any thoughts?
 
If the headlights are not coming on, then likely the connection is broken outside the firewall. Bulkhead connections, fusible link, connections to the starter relay, battery connections.... a 12v test light will be very helpful to trace. Are the grounds connected from back of the passenger head to firewall, and from the front left block to battery?

You can get a car schematic for your year from mymopar.com
 
Hey Ozzy, I see you are in Harborcreek. There is a Mopar meet tomorrow down at the Albion Fair Grounds. Last year there was about 400 cars. Not to bad for a one light hick town like Albion !!!
 
Check the bulkhead connector and make sure that all the wires are in fully, sometimes they get pushed back when you reconnect them and don't make a good connection...
 
Thanks for the comments guys! I'll be checking the wiring out today. And thanks Jax340Dart- I plan on being at the car show. I didn't know about it 'til you mentioned it.
I'll get back to you guys- thanks again for the help.
 
Ozzy, I hope you didnt go. It was just about a washout. When I was there, there was only about 50 cars
 
I was able to work on getting the car started though. Found the problem- as was suggested by a few of you, it was a wire in the bulkhead connectors. The main power wire had come out. She fired right up after correcting it. Thanks again to all of you who helped me out.
Now it's time for the tranny.
 
Ozzy said:
I was able to work on getting the car started though. Found the problem- as was suggested by a few of you, it was a wire in the bulkhead connectors. The main power wire had come out. She fired right up after correcting it. Thanks again to all of you who helped me out.
Now it's time for the tranny.
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Glad that you found it and got it fixed...

Thanks for letting us know what it was. It helps us to find out how you got it fixed also...
 
krazykuda said:
Glad that you found it and got it fixed...

Thanks for letting us know what it was. It helps us to find out how you got it fixed also...
Click to expand...
I disconnected all three of the large connectors. I noticed that a previous owner had replaced the end of a thick red wire, and kind of rigged it with a connector. Not the greatest job, but it worked when I got it back into place. If the car completely shuts down, I'll know where to look first. Hopefully if it does happen, it won't be at 55 mph. Gonna look into getting that done right.
 
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