breakstuff
Well-Known Member
Who has used them on their early A? What did you think of them?
Headman huslers
- Thread starter breakstuff
- Start date
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breakstuff
Well-Known Member
Nobody here has used the headman hustler fenderwell exit headers?
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
I,ve had my Headman Husler fenderwell headers for 3 years.I got the coated ones for longer lasting and they look great for the Nostalgia look.
View attachment 2012 66 DART 010.jpg
View attachment 2012 66 DART 034.jpg
View attachment 2012 66 DART 010.jpg
View attachment 2012 66 DART 034.jpg
I've used them on my car for 20 years or so:
You can see them poking out from underneath the car, how they look in the engine compartment, and details of exiting through the inner fenders.
They have install requirements which you will need to accept and can cause some tire rubbing which you need to deal with. But from then on they are an easy install/removal, and they just look cool and run like there's no tomorrow. I've run them on both street and strip. I like 'em. : )
You can see them poking out from underneath the car, how they look in the engine compartment, and details of exiting through the inner fenders.
They have install requirements which you will need to accept and can cause some tire rubbing which you need to deal with. But from then on they are an easy install/removal, and they just look cool and run like there's no tomorrow. I've run them on both street and strip. I like 'em. : )
breakstuff
Well-Known Member
Did you have to dent them in anyway? They look real tight where the shock protrudes into the shock tower. What are requirements do I need to accept?
While I did not have to dent the headers, here's what I did have to do:
While my headers clear the shock stud, I had to notch the shock tower uppermost region for the #3 and #4 tubes and I also had to make a cutout in the lower rear (the sill to frame tie) area of the fenderwell where the collector turns under the car. Tubes #1 and #2 exit the engine compartment and inch or so above the frame rails so the hole(s) you cut in the inner fender will need to include that.
Note what I'm running is PN 75110 which are the 1-7/8" tubes. I can't speak to the 1-3/4" and 2" tubes (W2) which they make (or did) as well. Also, I bought mine somewhere in the mid 1980's and don't know if anything has changed with that PN. Maybe pettybludart can comment on his experience since his are newer.
While my headers clear the shock stud, I had to notch the shock tower uppermost region for the #3 and #4 tubes and I also had to make a cutout in the lower rear (the sill to frame tie) area of the fenderwell where the collector turns under the car. Tubes #1 and #2 exit the engine compartment and inch or so above the frame rails so the hole(s) you cut in the inner fender will need to include that.
Note what I'm running is PN 75110 which are the 1-7/8" tubes. I can't speak to the 1-3/4" and 2" tubes (W2) which they make (or did) as well. Also, I bought mine somewhere in the mid 1980's and don't know if anything has changed with that PN. Maybe pettybludart can comment on his experience since his are newer.
breakstuff
Well-Known Member
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman-Husler/502/75109/10002/-1?parentProductId=
These are the ones I'm looking at.
These are the ones I'm looking at.
moparlee
64 Valiant
Well I'm basically running them. When i ordered mine(Mopar Performance fenderwell headers) from Mopar Performance back in the 90's, they arrived in a JR Header box with Headman Hustler stickers in the box.
breakstuff
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the input. I don't mind dropping $700 bucks on headers, I just don't like the idea of dropping $700 on headers I have to beat the hell out of just to fit. I sure wish these early A's were the same width as the later ones, it would make life alot easier.
Any other tips and advice anyone has to offer?
Any other tips and advice anyone has to offer?
I like your approach of PN 75109 (1-3/4"), it may be easier to fit than the 1-7/8" and run pretty well depending on your application. I don't know however, as my experience is with 1-7/8".
I recommend you consider future availability of whatever PN you choose as you are pretty much making a commitment due to the cutting required. Definitely order the "Jet-Hot" type coating inside and out; it is good. I actually bought mine uncoated and shipped them to Jet-Hot back in the 1980's. While their run time has been somewhat limited, they are holding up well. Don't overheat them on motor startup due to timing not yet being adjusted. The coating doesn't like that.
I have a backup set of PN 75110 and a new W2 2" PN for future use, neither of which I have yet to fit or run. I am committed! Of course, if you have access to someone who can replicate, the concern is not there. Just some thoughts to consider.
I recommend you consider future availability of whatever PN you choose as you are pretty much making a commitment due to the cutting required. Definitely order the "Jet-Hot" type coating inside and out; it is good. I actually bought mine uncoated and shipped them to Jet-Hot back in the 1980's. While their run time has been somewhat limited, they are holding up well. Don't overheat them on motor startup due to timing not yet being adjusted. The coating doesn't like that.
I have a backup set of PN 75110 and a new W2 2" PN for future use, neither of which I have yet to fit or run. I am committed! Of course, if you have access to someone who can replicate, the concern is not there. Just some thoughts to consider.
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