I fixed it.
I have a spare heater control that has a broken one of these pins thats not dry rotted to nothing. So at least i had something to measure that was accurately sized. The stem is the same diameter as a #10 machinist drill bit. The built in washer/spacer is 3/16" thick and fits right inside my 3/4" rotabroach circular cutter.
I drilled 2 pilot holes in a piece of 3/16" plate scrap steel i had, then drilled it out w my 3/4" dia rotabroach holesaw bit. The pieces knocked out of the steel plate with my 3/4" holesaw are the new washer / spacer pieces forvthe pin. Then i clamped em nice n flat in my drill press, and drilled the centers with a #10 drill.
I scuffed up the shanks on 2 used cobalt #10 drills and super glued the 3/16" metal washers i made in place. Then i deburred and smoothed everything out, and cut the twist drill end off leaving just the smooth drill shank.
I made the drill shank pins stick up a bit higher than the stock plastic ones so the cables cant slip off, then i greased everything to move smoothly, and adjusted the nylon lock nuts for the levers to allow smooth movement.
I will prob get those push on lock washers they use on the cable ends for these, but with the length i made the pins it probably isnt necessary.
Everything works smoothly without any binding. I am sure with a bit of care this can be duplicated in a regular bench vise. Out of metal, i will never have to replace these in my lifetime LOL.
I originally thought of the bolt, nut, washer thing, but for starters , there wasnt enough of the nylon left on either pins that wasnt dryrotted and missing, plus the smooth shank of the hardened drill bit wont cut into the mild steel that the lever arms and heater control base are made of
Hope this helps.