heats up and wont cool down

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412 Stroker

412 Stroker

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I just put in my 412 stroker into my duster and before when it was still a 360, I had a fan shroud, 2 row copper cored rad, engine driven fan, no clutch, and auxiliary electric fan, car ran fine 180-190, unless I got stuck in traffic then it would go up to 200-210 max cause then the electric fan would kick in and keep it at 200-210, so when I decided to have that same engine rebuilt into the stroker it is now I bought a brand new Jegs crossflow 2 row 1 inch tubes aluminum radiator, Flowcooler water pump, 180 mr. gasket thermostat, and electric fan 2500cfm (puller) no engine driven fan, and no shroud, I am running a external tranny cooler and also tranny oil through the rad, So now the 412 takes a little time but climbs to 220 -230 and will not come down, no matter how fast I drive, I am leaning to thinking I will have to get some kind of shroud and maybe have to go back to an engine fan, (didnt really want too) turn the elecrtic into a pusher in front, Jegs has aluminium shrouds, that you attache an electric fan to but Ii don't think I will have enough room for that, timing is set correct, 12 degrees initial and 35 max advance, the machine shop that built my motor set it (in car and drove it) so I am pretty confident they have it set correctly, what do you all think??
 
Everything sounds right. It might be a bad thermostat. With the radaitor cap off see if the water is flowing thru the top of the engine.
 
Yes i agree it could be the thermostat, but Baril (engine builder) thought that when they had it, we changed it to a new (unfortunatly a stat 192 all they had), did the same thing, so they are stumped too, i've read posts about others with heat issues and some guys dont run shrouds and they dont have heat issues, I know each engine is different too, I am running cast iron heads, 202's and 165's port matched, bowl blended, but nothing too radical. Comp cams #279TH7 Thumper flat tappet cam, 242 dur 488 lift,
 
I would change the timing down and check then it. If nothing then change the thermostat to a 160 or 165. I have a 180 in mine and the fans stay on all the time and at the engine it reads 180 all the time, traffic or freeway.
 
I am assuming you mean to advance the timing??? I took this right off the website from the maker of my water pump Flowkooler: There is a lot of misinformation about ignition timing and cooling. Retarded timing contributes to overheating. Advanced timing helps cooling. Advance your initial timing a few degrees and see if it helps the car run cooler. However, if you advance to much you risk detonation and that too will cause you to overheat.
 
I would guess the electric fan cannot move enough air and there is an air flow issue thru the radiator at speed. Do you have an "air dam" under your radiator core support or on your front bumper to direct air thru the grille and the radiator instead of allowing it to flow under the car? At speeds above 15 - 20 mph, you are probably building pressure under your engine bay stalling air flow thu the radiator. Your radiator air flow then solely relies on your electric fan to force air thru the radiator and that is probably insufficient. I have had excellent improvements in cooling at driving speeds by adding an air dam under the radiator core support on many vehicles. You also probably need a factory thermostatic clutch fan with a factory fan shroud instead of an electric fan since a factory clutch fan will move 6000-8000 cfm.
 
A lean fuel condition will cause a motor to run hot and also I would bypass the tranny oil in the radiator as all that does is to warm the tranny oil up on cold mornings.
 
I do not have a airdamn and I did read a post on here on how to make one, good post too, I didnt need one before, but i do realize that I do not have the same motor as I did, I think most of my issue is NO Shroud, but as most of you know there is not alot of room to put one in, the one from Jegs would fit but i am pretty sure it would not allow me to attach the fan to it like your supposed to, I will have to check that out, I would like to know how many of you guys run an aux. tranny cooler and NOT run it through the rad, i was afraid my tranny would get too hot with just the aux one.
 
yep i was told to only use a moroso or a mr. gasket,( I have a Mr. Gasket) I see Milodon has a high flow thermo too, thanks for all the info, what about running tranny oil only through ext. cooler??
 
412 Stroker said:
yep i was told to only use a moroso or a mr. gasket,( I have a Mr. Gasket) I see Milodon has a high flow thermo too, thanks for all the info, what about running tranny oil only through ext. cooler??
Click to expand...

Did ya test it to make sure it's opening all the way at the stamped temp.
 
412 Stroker said:
yep i was told to only use a moroso or a mr. gasket,( I have a Mr. Gasket) I see Milodon has a high flow thermo too, thanks for all the info, what about running tranny oil only through ext. cooler??
Click to expand...


Well everything is debatable on the internet. :snakeman:

Run the tranny oil through the ext. cooler first, then into the rad. The thought with that is too cool tranny fluid is not good. The tranny fluid will also pick up some heat from the rad keeping the tranny fluid at the proper temp. If the ext. tranny cooler is after the rad, the tranny fluid is putting even more heat into the rad - which in your case is marginal.

Of course hooking up the cooler this way is opposite of what I had always thought.


Wylde1.
 
412 Stroker said:
I just put in my 412 stroker into my duster and before when it was still a 360, I had a fan shroud, 2 row copper cored rad, engine driven fan, no clutch, and auxiliary electric fan, car ran fine 180-190, unless I got stuck in traffic then it would go up to 200-210 max cause then the electric fan would kick in and keep it at 200-210, so when I decided to have that same engine rebuilt into the stroker it is now I bought a brand new Jegs crossflow 2 row 1 inch tubes aluminum radiator, Flowcooler water pump, 180 mr. gasket thermostat, and electric fan 2500cfm (puller) no engine driven fan, and no shroud, I am running a external tranny cooler and also tranny oil through the rad, So now the 412 takes a little time but climbs to 220 -230 and will not come down, no matter how fast I drive, I am leaning to thinking I will have to get some kind of shroud and maybe have to go back to an engine fan, (didnt really want too) turn the elecrtic into a pusher in front, Jegs has aluminium shrouds, that you attache an electric fan to but Ii don't think I will have enough room for that, timing is set correct, 12 degrees initial and 35 max advance, the machine shop that built my motor set it (in car and drove it) so I am pretty confident they have it set correctly, what do you all think??
Click to expand...
Here's something to try.....

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=100851

also get a laser heat gun and shoot different areas of the heads and engine block to check for hot spots....could be air pockets in the heads or block
 
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