Heavy Duty 1963 Pushbutton 904

-

cchrishefish

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2009
Messages
768
Reaction score
153
Location
USA
I purchased a 904 slant 6 904 a couple weeks ago. I noticed that the speedometer housing is plugged with a brass cap, I am guessing this was done to keep tranny fluid from spewing all over the place. This tranny was supposedly used for racing. Now, that I am looking it over, I only see one cable attached. So since I am a transmission dummy, I cannot find where the second cable is supposed to attach. This would be the Park Lock Cable, I think. Does anyone have a picture showing how this cable enters the transmission?
 
Got pictures of the drivers side of tranny?

89149187_604304737091557_1658659349729378304_n.jpg
 
Second cable is the park cable and attaches into a small housing under the tail shaft housing close to the pan. That is if you have it- racing trannys don't need it. A picture of this area would help.
 
Second cable is the park cable and attaches into a small housing under the tail shaft housing close to the pan. That is if you have it- racing trannys don't need it. A picture of this area would help.
Ok I think I found it, it is filled with silicone calk I believe.

89214242_1087977658222588_1366211105239597056_n.jpg
 
You got it! Now remove that housing and see if the internal mechanism is still there. You should find a small tube that the cable fits into.
 
Since I am about to convert my car to a two barrel, I may end up removing the rod style kickdown linkage and install a Lokar cable. The kickdown lever has 3 positions, correct me if I am wrong. That would be to the left, middle, and to the right. What position should the kickdown lever be in when the carburetor is at maximum throttle?

89149187_604304737091557_1658659349729378304_n.jpg
 
That lever has no "positions", no detents. As it moves from the left (idle, low speed) to the right (cruising speed, full throttle) it varies the throttle pressure incrementally.
 
You got it! Now remove that housing and see if the internal mechanism is still there. You should find a small tube that the cable fits into.
I will check on that tomorrow, I am getting ready to go to work. So my guess is that the park lock mechanism was removed because race cars do not use them, coreect? So race cars must only use parking brakes?
 
That lever has no "positions", no detents. As it moves from the left (idle, low speed) to the right (cruising speed, full throttle) it varies the throttle pressure incrementally.
I am trying to figure out how to adjust it after installing a new intake, 2 or 4 barrel carb, and removing the rod mechanism and replacing it with a cable, (Lokar)
 
My only concern is that all the stock items are there to put this thing back on street duty. Better to find out now before install. Good luck.
 
My only concern is that all the stock items are there to put this thing back on street duty. Better to find out now before install. Good luck.
I am not planning on swapping this out until next year. I am planning on doing improvements to my car with a transitional plan. This Summer will be intake, carb, and headers. Next year I will swap out tranny.
 
I purchased a 904 slant 6 904 a couple weeks ago. I noticed that the speedometer housing is plugged with a brass cap, I am guessing this was done to keep tranny fluid from spewing all over the place. This tranny was supposedly used for racing. Now, that I am looking it over, I only see one cable attached. So since I am a transmission dummy, I cannot find where the second cable is supposed to attach. This would be the Park Lock Cable, I think. Does anyone have a picture showing how this cable enters the transmission?
park lock is under the rear tail shaft, should be a housing with 3/8s bolts.
 
I will check on that tomorrow, I am getting ready to go to work. So my guess is that the park lock mechanism was removed because race cars do not use them, coreect? So race cars must only use parking brakes?
not always. the reason it was removed could be quite numerous, including lack of availability in finding a new cable. Those cables are notorious for leaking over time.
 
I am not planning on swapping this out until next year. I am planning on doing improvements to my car with a transitional plan. This Summer will be intake, carb, and headers. Next year I will swap out tranny.
I would treat that thing as a core. IF it was truly used for racing (how many people actually raced a slant 6/904 pb?), its likely gonna need rebuilt, new clutches etc. That said, the pushbuttons are a completely different animal, especially the 1963/1964 versions, than a regular 727. So you're gonna have to make sure its rebuilt right. OH and make damn sure you get the right trans filter, the one with two holes, one for each pump. MOST auto part stores only stock the later, 1967 and up 727 single hole filters.
 
I would treat that thing as a core. IF it was truly used for racing (how many people actually raced a slant 6/904 pb?), its likely gonna need rebuilt, new clutches etc. That said, the pushbuttons are a completely different animal, especially the 1963/1964 versions, than a regular 727. So you're gonna have to make sure its rebuilt right. OH and make damn sure you get the right trans filter, the one with two holes, one for each pump. MOST auto part stores only stock the later, 1967 and up 727 single hole filters.
Yes, I was not planning on installing it without a full inspection with at least new gaskets and seals.
 
That kickdown arm is supposed to be pushed all the way back when the carb is all the way open. Pull in and out on the input shaft to get some idea of the amount of internal wear. !/8" is past the .040 max recommended, but they still work with even 3/16". Checking the bottom of the pan for debris probably wouldn't be a good indicator of clutch and band wear since it's probably had the pan off several times. If your fluid looks brand new and end play is at a minimum, it might be okay to run as is. But if you want to drop out the front drums to check it, we are here to help supervise.
 
not always. the reason it was removed could be quite numerous, including lack of availability in finding a new cable. Those cables are notorious for leaking over time.
Hemiperformance is now providing cable reproductions.
 
That kickdown arm is supposed to be pushed all the way back when the carb is all the way open. Pull in and out on the input shaft to get some idea of the amount of internal wear. !/8" is past the .040 max recommended, but they still work with even 3/16". Checking the bottom of the pan for debris probably wouldn't be a good indicator of clutch and band wear since it's probably had the pan off several times. If your fluid looks brand new and end play is at a minimum, it might be okay to run as is. But if you want to drop out the front drums to check it, we are here to help supervise.
Thank you, I may take you up on the offer when I have a weekend off and the weather improves here. The input shaft is very tight and only pushes in a hair.
 
Ok, so I am starting to see the way a kickdown cable is supposed to attach to the pushbutton transmission that is currently in my car thanks to you members and my spare pushbutton 904. So correct me if I am wrong, after I remove the rod linkage 904 kickdown, I will need to install a cable to the kickdown and the cable's bracket will mount on the transmissions tailshaft? Now, begins another item on my shopping list. I currently have a 1964 V8 A body accelerator pedal assembly with a factory throttle cable. I do not think that cable will work on a 2 or 4 barrel carb conversion. So, any members whom have a 64 Dart that have converted to a 2 or 4 barrel, I would appreciate your recommendations. So please provide me with part numbers and links to a throttle and kickdown cable. Also, I believe I need a carburetor bracket with springs.
 
Ok, so I am starting to see the way a kickdown cable is supposed to attach to the pushbutton transmission that is currently in my car thanks to you members and my spare pushbutton 904. So correct me if I am wrong, after I remove the rod linkage 904 kickdown, I will need to install a cable to the kickdown and the cable's bracket will mount on the transmissions tailshaft? Now, begins another item on my shopping list. I currently have a 1964 V8 A body accelerator pedal assembly with a factory throttle cable. I do not think that cable will work on a 2 or 4 barrel carb conversion. So, any members whom have a 64 Dart that have converted to a 2 or 4 barrel, I would appreciate your recommendations. So please provide me with part numbers and links to a throttle and kickdown cable. Also, I believe I need a carburetor bracket with springs.

First, I converted the 2 barrel to a 4 barrel on my 64 poly. the throttle cable and kickdown linkage both worked. I did have to adjust the kickdown about 1/2 inch longer.

Second, warning about the kickdown cables on PB trans. Some have had issues getting them to work just right. So be prepared to have to tinker a bunch to get it just right.
 
First, I converted the 2 barrel to a 4 barrel on my 64 poly. the throttle cable and kickdown linkage both worked. I did have to adjust the kickdown about 1/2 inch longer.

Second, warning about the kickdown cables on PB trans. Some have had issues getting them to work just right. So be prepared to have to tinker a bunch to get it just right.
Do you recommend Lokar or another brand? Also, I did see one A body owner lengthen his kickdown rod to work with his 2 barrel. And, used a Lokar cable for the throttle. I am also shopping for an air cleaner that will provide enough hood clearance for a Dart GT.
 
Last edited:
-
Back
Top