HEI Problems

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Hey everyone I've noticed a few hei kits online (performance distributors and others) and I see no mention of using a relay that is recommended on the slant 6 forum . Can anyone explain the necessity of the relay ?
 
Without a link to what you are talking about I can only guess, but this:

Many perhaps MOST of these girls suffer from voltage drop in the circuit path from the battery........bulkhead........ammeter circuit........through the ignition switch.......back out the bulkhead..........to the ignition VR/ alternator field "run" power

THIS VOLTAGE DROP actually causes the VR to OVER charge the battery (over voltage). Whatever drop is in that path is ADDED to the VR set point

I've written about this hundreds of times on this board, here is what you do:

With the engine stopped, turn the key to "run"

Stab one probe of your meter into the battery positive post. Connect the remaining probe "as close as you can get" (electrically) to the VR ignition terminal........the terminal that is supplied from the blue "run" wire.

What you are hoping for is a VERY low reading, less than .3V (3/10 of one volt) Any/ much over that you need to find the cause

Cutting that blue feed wire, using the bulkhead end to trigger a relay, and then feeding the output of the relay to the cut end in the engine bay would relieve that drop, as the relay power would come from say, the big stud on the start relay.
 
67Dart273 said:
Without a link to what you are talking about I can only guess, but this:

Many perhaps MOST of these girls suffer from voltage drop in the circuit path from the battery........bulkhead........ammeter circuit........through the ignition switch.......back out the bulkhead..........to the ignition VR/ alternator field "run" power

THIS VOLTAGE DROP actually causes the VR to OVER charge the battery (over voltage). Whatever drop is in that path is ADDED to the VR set point

I've written about this hundreds of times on this board, here is what you do:

With the engine stopped, turn the key to "run"

Stab one probe of your meter into the battery positive post. Connect the remaining probe "as close as you can get" (electrically) to the VR ignition terminal........the terminal that is supplied from the blue "run" wire.

What you are hoping for is a VERY low reading, less than .3V (3/10 of one volt) Any/ much over that you need to find the cause

Cutting that blue feed wire, using the bulkhead end to trigger a relay, and then feeding the output of the relay to the cut end in the engine bay would relieve that drop, as the relay power would come from say, the big stud on the start relay.
Click to expand...
Dodge Slant 6 Tri-Power Distributor - Performance Distributors
 
I'm referring to your comment about the relay. No idea what someone might have said LOL

So far as that distributor? 300 and some bucks? Ridiculous. Looks like "same difference" as a breakerless slant distributor and a GM hei module.
 


Power relay

You'll want to add a power relay to guarantee full line voltage to the ignition module at all times. If the ignition module is starved for power, it'll work unreliably and it'll die prematurely. The module really needs to see full line voltage, and the wiring in most of our cars isn't up to that task after all these years. So, when setting up your module wiring, it's best to install a relay that'll provide full line voltage to the module via the coil + terminal.

copied and Pasted from Slant Six forum , Hope this helps
 
I could have guessed..........I myself have suggested just that. The more important thing is NOT only voltage to the ignition, but "same as" battery voltage to the VR so the sensing is correct
 
Update , the hei ignition has been installed and is working fine . I took my time and confirmed all connections , as far as the relay I installed one from the beginning and I know why its a must I was just wondering why some of the aftermarket kits make no mention of a relay when you could be left stranded by not using one . Thanks for all the response it was a big help
 
What did you find wrong, and DON'T STOP NOW..........check your charging voltage!!! Get the car warmed and battery "normalized" and with everything, lights, heater, etc, off, check the running charging voltage
 
67Dart273 said:
What did you find wrong, and DON'T STOP NOW..........check your charging voltage!!! Get the car warmed and battery "normalized" and with everything, lights, heater, etc, off, check the running charging voltage
Click to expand...
Good point I'll check output next and as far as what I found wrong I can't say . I think I just rushed through the process the first time and became my own worst enemy .
 
Glad you got it fixed. I’ve ran an hei module screwed down to the inner fender of my dart for the last 40,000 or so miles with no trouble. Seems to start and run better than points or the Mopar box. I don’t use a relay but I did bypass the alt wires around the bulkhead connector. Always a good idea to make sure your charging system is up to snuff and keep a good battery in it.
 
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