Hello, A couple of questions...

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gandude

gandude

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caulk seams.jpg
caulk seams 2.jpg
My 1st restoration, 1963 Valiant Convertible.

Q1) what is the 'caulk' that goes around the metal seams (see pic), and where is the best place to get it. Should it be installed before or after paint? ...the original stuff looked like tar.

Q2) I have tried to punch holes through the floor pan and it's pretty solid. My plan is to treat the metal with phosphoric acid then prime and paint w/Rustoleum. How exactly do you treat the metal w/acid? ...do you rinse it off or just leave it 'til it's dry then prime?

Thanks in advance,
caulk seams.jpg
Glen.
 
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It is called seam sealer. You can get it at any good auto parts store or automotive paint supply store.

I am partial to 3M products.
 
Hi Gandude. Just went through this myself. What RRR said, 3M#8308 seam sealer. I also live in 94518. You can pick it up at Finishmasters on Willow Pass Rd. Near Safeway, or Ned's on Market St. next to Ace Motorcycles by Concord BMW.
Treat the metal with phosphoric acid. Directions say to wash off and dry, then ok to paint. I used etching primer first, then primer, then paint. I figured the floor will outlast me, since I just turned 60! Would like to see your project sometime, Private Message me if you'd like to meet.
 
clifftt said:
Hi Gandude. Just went through this myself. What RRR said, 3M#8308 seam sealer. I also live in 94518. You can pick it up at Finishmasters on Willow Pass Rd. Near Safeway, or Ned's on Market St. next to Ace Motorcycles by Concord BMW.
Treat the metal with phosphoric acid. Directions say to wash off and dry, then ok to paint. I used etching primer first, then primer, then paint. I figured the floor will outlast me, since I just turned 60! Would like to see your project sometime, Private Message me if you'd like to meet.
Click to expand...

LOL, I live in Concord off Clayton Road! Small World!

Thank You!
 
Hit my avatar, hit "Start a conversation ", and you're good. I just hit you with one before bedtime.
 
The 3M Seamsealer seems to be the industry standard . It can be applied either before or after painting and can be tooled with stick or with your finger . there is no need to apply it the same way the factory did . they used way too much and sometimes they didn't even cover the seams . Please, please , please don't use Rustoleum . It's crap and can be wiped off with lacquer thinner , junk .
 
Scamp.

I went to Finish Master and talked to the gal, The price was OK on the seam sealer but the applicator gun, ! $125!!

After brushing the paint and rust I would like to protect it. Rustoleum seamed like it would work, I guess not. Since the whole car is going to take some time, I will need to rethink this out a bit as I can only do a bit here and there.

Thanks.

I
 
Like somebody else said, it's not caulk, its seam sealer. You can buy seam sealer in the auto parts store, but I prefer to use Blackjack Roofing tar which is real similar to the factory seam sealer. It's just takes a month or two for it to harden enough 2 top coat.
As far as the floor, I'm not a real fan of the phosphoric acid. I would get in there with a steel brush on a drill and brush the heck out of the floor and then put a rust converter on the floor. Let it cure for a day or two and then coat it with the paint of your choice.
 
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The 3-m Seam sealer is beige in color (other colors may be available.) approx $7.00-$9.00 per tube.
You use a simple caulk gun from Home depot is what is needed another $5-$6.00 for a cheap caulking gun.
The 3-m seam sealer (my favorite) dries to a skin in like 30mins and you can paint over it at that point.
When it gets hot it does not loosen up like the tar suggestion.

After the bare metal (sorry never used acids on the panels in my life- partial to sand blasting... draw back to blasting is sand gets everywhere!) I use a two part etching primer. Rust Oleum has an automotive product in the aerosol can, same color army green, but takes at least 24hrs to dry before next layer or primer or paint. I've used it for years and only down side is if you paint too early the paint will peel over time. If you wait the full 24hrs to dry... you have to lightly scuff it up with scotch bright and be careful not to break thru the green to bare metal. If you do, you need to spray green again and wait another 24hrs.
The body shop version ( a true two part epoxy mixture) may not be available in all states unless you are a licensed body shop. In Connecticut with my business license I am able to purchase professional stuff like that but I think any one can here. Nice thing about the body shop professional version is if you let it flash the 45 mins you can coat it directly with the next coat with out sanding it.

As for the top coat, rust oleum is used by a lot of places for inside floors because it wears well, goes on thick (sound deadener) and when dry is able to put the sound deadener pads right on top. And it is not a visual because its under the rug.
Good luck on your quest for the correct method. Don't rush it because skipping a step or bad info will bite you in the butt every time.
Joe
 
Thank You SYleng1.

The acid works good. It doesn't remove rust but changes it to another inert solid. The un-rusted metal takes on a 'gavanized' look. I do have a sand blaster and yes, it is very messy! The neighbors would not appreciate the cloud!

Appreciate your input on Rustoleum as the rebuild has limited funds. and yes, I am taking my time!
 
The best thing, if you are planning a full boogie resto (meaning painting inside and out like the factory) then you will want to remove all the old sealer, then work the metal, then spray with an etching primer, then apply the sealer, then paint. The factory applied it before the body was run through the primer dip, and I've found rust in the bare metal underneath. So I always shoot primer first, then seal it.
 
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