help? clutch wont disengage

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Well there was a little stamp on the disc that said this side flywheel. Then I wondered what if it got stamped wrong? I ended up sending the latest pictures to Wayne at brewers and he thinks it just might be the pressure plate as well so I said theres only one way to find out.....throw more money at it! He is sending me his clutch pak should be here in a few days then it will be round three Stay tuned
 
66Dartdriver said:
Well there was a little stamp on the disc that said this side flywheel. Then I wondered what if it got stamped wrong? I ended up sending the latest pictures to Wayne at brewers and he thinks it just might be the pressure plate as well so I said theres only one way to find out.....throw more money at it! He is sending me his clutch pak should be here in a few days then it will be round three Stay tuned
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The flat side of the disc is the flywheel side. The raised side with the springs is the pressure plate side. I can imagine that changing most of the linkage could cause some problems and hard to figure out what is wrong. As I posted earlier I am having a problem like yours. I hope the Brewers parts I bought will cure the problem. Wayne and the boys know all about Mopar and I'm sure they will help you solve your dilemma. I had messed with the finger height adjustment on the pressure plate last fall and it was a mile off. I re adjusted the gap to what I thought was close and adjusted the linkage and with a bit of fine tuning I got the free play where it belongs and the clutch works good.
For now I won't even look at the throw-out bearing to pressure plate finger gap because I know there isn't any. That was my original problem. If I adjusted the gap between the bearing and the fingers the petal released too close to the floor. I had to start it in gear because it wouldn't go into gear from neutral. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. Keep us posted on your progress.
 
Looks like the rod coming from the pedal is on wrong. This will cause a bind and that clip to pop off. There is a bend in the rod which should be at the Z bar. Also Check the pedal. They have different pin locations. 6 inch spread and 5 1/4 inch . 6 inch realeases the clutch farther but is harder to push in. This is where you want to make your stroke change. If your fingers are hitting the springs on the plate your stroke is to long. In this case move the pin that holds the rod closer to the pedal arm. If you need more stroke move it farther away. When using a diaphram clutch you'll want to remove the Large helper spring on the pedal assembly inside the car. I just had a simular problem with a 71 340 duster. Someone installed 6 cyl. pedals. They are 5 1/4 inch pin spread. Early 340's are 6 inch. There was just a tech artical in a mopar mag. on clutch geometry in abodies do to this pedal difference in 340 cars. If you change your fork travel which is the last thing to move in the assembly. you'll need to change the first thing which is the pedal. They used long and short forks on different apps. The pedal that goes with is different. Just some friendly advise/. I will look for the artical and try to post it.
 
I found the artical December 2010 mopar muscle magazine. [A body clutch pedal fix] The cover has a white 67 valiant pulled over by the law and reads BANNED! very big
 
the first set up you pictured looked alot closer than the later version just the rod was on wrong as stated. The bracket bent because you bottomed your pressure plate which is now more than likely shot . Do not install a new plate and and apply pedal pressure until you check the geometry. One time to the floor and you'll need another if its wrong. Steve
 
Ok I received the clutch pak from Brewers after work on Fri. It was a balmy 38 when I started taking everything apart on the Dart this morning. when I got the pressure plate off I laid it next to the 10" one I ordered from brewers and the 3 fingers were definately longer on the new 10" pressure plate. So I was thinking this could be it. Sure enough I got everything back in and pushed in the clutch and shazam easily went all the way to the floor no problems. I had my son come out and work the clutch while I got underneath it and checked everything out. It was the brand new 9 1/4" pressure plate this whole time! It was just a faulty piece. Now I am going to see if auto zone will return it. They better after almost driving me insane. Thanks to everybody and your words of wisdom.
 
toolmanmike said:
Dang, Must be something with 66's LOL I share your pain, I had the same problem when I replaced my clutch last spring when I put my fresh motor in. I went from a 9 1/2" to a 10" clutch and nothing else changed. I replaced all the linkage and rebuilt the z bar. I also replaced the fork and pivot. I never did get it to work or adjust correctly. I ordered Brewers clutch kit, fork and pivot and had my local Clutchmasters check it out. It was set up perfectly and I hope when I install it (hopefully soon) I will be able to adjust it and it will work as designed. I wish I had an answer for you but I don't. Apparently the pressure plate is a different dimension than the stocker and the fingers are closer to the flywheel (just a guess) It appears like we need more stroke from the petal pivot because the adjusting rod doesn't help. If you adjust the petal for a couple inches of free play at the top it won't disengage when the petal is on the floor. If you adjust it so the clutch disengages 3/4 the way to the floor then the throw out bearing rides on the pressure plate fingers all the time and ruins the bearing. Keep in touch. We'll beat this thing yet! toolmanmike
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Got my clutch put in today. All fixed. I can't believe how smooth and easy it is to pedal. The clutch kit was from Brewers. It was a 10" kit for a 9 1/2" flywheel It works like butter, as smooth as any hydraulic I've ever ran. I also got a new fork , pivot, and boot. My son and I got started at a little after 9 am and was done by 1. I changed the oil and filter too while I had it up on the hoist. I'm real pleased.
 
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