Help identify my Converter

[LIME TWIST DART]

So, when I bought my project it came with a lot of parts and goodies. So far everything has been as expected. Good stuff. I'm just starting to learn more about all those things that happen behind the motor. I'm not well versed on transmissions, converters and rear ends, etc. I'm trying to learn everything possible about what I have and right now its my converter that I'm looking at.
I don't know the manufacturer, but was told it was a 4,000 stall. It has a few sets of markings on it. The letter P above another P. Also, the numbers 1434 and 3800. Other converters I have seen advertise 2,000-2,200 or 3,000-3,200 etc. Does the 3800 marking on mine indicate 3,800 stall or 3,800-4,000? Maybe some one can school me on this. There are 122 teeth and overall width is 12", but the dome part is more like 10 1/2". So, you would call it a 10 1/2" converter not a 12", right? I could list all my car specs, but right now for the sake of these questions only, I'm not concerned how it will perform with the car. I've been over that with the builder. It's going in the car. At least to start with.
Can you tell the manufacturer just by looking at it?
Any info is helpful?
Thanks,

 

[transman]

Without having it cut open to see what may or may not have been done to it, you can't tell anything. With the 1" wide ring gear, it is what we called in the converter industry an 11" converter. As far as the color goes, it means nothing, other than the fact it's been repainted at some time and might even be just a rattle can rebuild. I've seen my share of those.
I have my doubts about the "stall speed". I've yet to see a converter from a reputable high stall builder say that an 11" converter will give you much more than 2500-2800 stall and still work properly. For 2800-3500 usually you'll find a 10" converter used. For higher stalls we would go to a 9" or smaller converter depending on the customers engine/needs and end use. These converters are always custom made. Even some of the 10" units were custom built as we often built them for a specific use. Too many guys buy used converters thinking that they are high stalls, when in fact they are nothing but a stock converter. I was at a swap meet last summer and saw a converter for sale. The seller was claiming it was a 3500 stall conveter, but I knew differently. It was one of ours and our part number was still on it, along with the serial number we put on all high stalls. It was our part number 35-12SS, a modified GM TH350 converter we sold. We built those for about 300-500 rpm over stock (stock TH350 12" unit stalls at about 1400 rpm).
If this is a used converter, and you don't know the history of it, DON'T use it. As others have stated in many posts, a used converter makes a great door stop.

 

[LIME TWIST DART]

Thanks for the info. Somehow I didn't see your post until now. I thought there were no responses and was about to bump it.

Man, this is frustrating. I was told it was custom built. Everything I was told about the motor has been verified and are quality parts. Its a fresh motor and would be about a 9K or 10K build. So far I have no reason to doubt anything I was told about the car. I would hate to spend more $ on another converter. Since I am running my car on the street, my motor guy suggested that I drop to a lower stall speed. However, he suggested that I start with the one I have to see what I think before buying another one. The finish on the converter looks to be a lot tougher and nicer than rattle can. No fluid when pulled, had never been run and was only mated to trans and motor for ease of transportation in the car on a flatbed. It looks real clean. I know it sounds like I'm looking for a way to get out of buying a new one, but I don't if its not necessary.

Any way to test these out of car, other than cutting it open? Does the dry weight tell you anything? I was hoping to find out who built it in the hopes of finding out, at the very least, when it was done. If the timeline fit, I would be confident in it being fresh and in working order. The engine and trans are definitely fresh, never run and quality builds. What to do?

Thanks again,

 

[TrailBeast]

1.Throw it in there and find out.
If you are happy with it then there ya go.

2. Buy a new one that you know what it is.

Sounds oversimplified I know, but that's the way it is.

 

[LIME TWIST DART]

1.Throw it in there and find out.
If you are happy with it then there ya go.

2. Buy a new one that you know what it is.

Sounds oversimplified I know, but that's the way it is.

1) was/is the plan.

My initial intentions were to collect info on the converter in my continued attempt to learn the most info possible about my car.

TRANSMAN's comment made me a bit nervous though. "If this is a used converter, and you don't know the history of it, DON'T use it. As others have stated in many posts, a used converter makes a great door stop."

Possibility that if somethings wrong, it could damage my motor, trans?

 

[TrailBeast]

1) was/is the plan.

My initial intentions were to collect info on the converter in my continued attempt to learn the most info possible about my car.

TRANSMAN's comment made me a bit nervous though. "If this is a used converter, and you don't know the history of it, DON'T use it. As others have stated in many posts, a used converter makes a great door stop."

Possibility that if somethings wrong, it could damage my motor, trans?

Anything is possible with a used converter.
If it were me, I would probably have it flushed out and see what it does just for the fun of it. (but I could fix it if it messed something up)
It's also a lot easier said than done to "Buy a new one" like a lot of people here say to do.

I still say you have two choices.

 

[LIME TWIST DART]

Anything is possible with a used converter.
If it were me, I would probably have it flushed out and see what it does just for the fun of it. (but I could fix it if it messed something up)
It's also a lot easier said than done to "Buy a new one" like a lot of people here say to do.

I still say you have two choices.

Thanks for the input.

 

[67Dart273]

If it was me, and "it is me" LOL I'd do exactly as TB suggested. In fact I myself have a converter off a used engine that is likely higher stall than what's in mine, which is a heavy, huge, out of a 3/4T van. About 1800 behind my 318. Even in my reduced state, the hassle of dropping the transmission is probably worth the gamble.

 

[LIME TWIST DART]

If it was me, and "it is me" LOL I'd do exactly as TB suggested. In fact I myself have a converter off a used engine that is likely higher stall than what's in mine, which is a heavy, huge, out of a 3/4T van. About 1800 behind my 318. Even in my reduced state, the hassle of dropping the transmission is probably worth the gamble.

I think I am going to give this one a shot. I really don't have a reason to believe its not worth trying out.

 

[transman]

Thanks for the info. Somehow I didn't see your post until now. I thought there were no responses and was about to bump it.

Man, this is frustrating. I was told it was custom built. Everything I was told about the motor has been verified and are quality parts. Its a fresh motor and would be about a 9K or 10K build. So far I have no reason to doubt anything I was told about the car. I would hate to spend more $ on another converter. Since I am running my car on the street, my motor guy suggested that I drop to a lower stall speed. However, he suggested that I start with the one I have to see what I think before buying another one. The finish on the converter looks to be a lot tougher and nicer than rattle can. No fluid when pulled, had never been run and was only mated to trans and motor for ease of transportation in the car on a flatbed. It looks real clean. I know it sounds like I'm looking for a way to get out of buying a new one, but I don't if its not necessary.

Any way to test these out of car, other than cutting it open? Does the dry weight tell you anything? I was hoping to find out who built it in the hopes of finding out, at the very least, when it was done. If the timeline fit, I would be confident in it being fresh and in working order. The engine and trans are definitely fresh, never run and quality builds. What to do?

Thanks again,

If there is any oil in it, tip it up and have a look at the oil on a clean white rag. If it's a nice red color, then perhaps it is OK, although this is not a guarantee. Flushing a converter is another option of course, but with stuff that can be imbeded in the turbine vanes, the pump vanes etc., it is difficult to remove with out a proper tool. I've seen lots cut open converters and the crud that can be in them. I understand your frustration. Converters are not a cheap item, but I still, as others, don't understand why many $$$$ are spent on an engine, and then people cheap out on the item that will transfer that power to the rear wheels. With high stalls, it's very important to match the converter to the power band of the engine. I agree with others that perhaps you should give it a try. I hope it's balanced for your engine.

Keep us informed.

 

[OldmanRick]

I apologize if I missed it, but doesn't your seller know where it came from? If you're not installing it right away, i'd wait and see if a few bumps here may give you a idea of who built it. Most builders keep records, and if you can determine it, the'll tell you what's up with it by the numbers. Even if you can narrow it down some, you can call a few of the builders with those numbers and see if they have any info for it or if those numbers ring a bell to them as far as who could have built it.

 

[LIME TWIST DART]

I apologize if I missed it, but doesn't your seller know where it came from? If you're not installing it right away, i'd wait and see if a few bumps here may give you a idea of who built it. Most builders keep records, and if you can determine it, the'll tell you what's up with it by the numbers. Even if you can narrow it down some, you can call a few of the builders with those numbers and see if they have any info for it or if those numbers ring a bell to them as far as who could have built it.

This was my exact intention when making the original post. To identify and then contact for verification. I bought the project 9 months ago. Seller refused any further contact after payment was made and I had taken delivery. Total D--- move. I think he was mostly bitter about taken such a huge $ hit on the car. So, probably felt no obligation to assist with anything going forward. Fortunately for me, I did contact the original engine builder before putting out the cash. He provided paperwork and lots of info. The trans shop had been sold, but I was told that the previous owner had a good reputation. Again, all the parts that came with the car were quality. Really no short cuts appear to have been taken on the whole project. Considerable body work-customization. Quality motor parts and build, verified by my current builder. New rear; axles, bearings and gears. Re-geared fresh 904.
I have no reason to believe its not as advertised. But, an important part like this, I don't want to pay big time for screwing up. I really just want to find a way to verify what it is.

I do have time. The motor was supposed to go on the Dyno last week. Didn't work out schedule wise. Now, should be hooked up tomorrow and ran Wednesday. Then I need to come up with headers and get the car wired. I probably have 2 months before I run it.