Help Me Calibrate My Fuel Gauge

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FJRdoc

FJRdoc

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I am in the process of trying to calibrate my fuel sending unit and fuel gauge on my 1970 Duster 340 Rallye dash. I checked the original fuel sender with my multimeter. It is in the correct range regarding Ohms.
I now want to calibrate the sender to my fuel gauge. I would like to make sure that "E" and "F" are where they should be.
Could somebody please help by describing or providing a schematic how I need to wire these up so that I can adjust the sender.
I have a variable voltage powers source. I disabled the mechanical voltage limiter and replaced it with a transistor voltage limiter. I am not an electrician so keep it simple if possible.
 
I don't ask questions until I've searched FABO, Moparts and even YouTube. I check out FABO multiple times a day. I've seen threads that discuss how inaccurate repop fuel sending units are, but I haven't come across a thread that gives a step-by-step how to wire up a power source, fuel gauge, and fuel sending unit on an A-body Rallye dash.
Perhaps I missed one, but I've been looking at this topic for some time.
 
This HAS been discussed "to death." There exists a calibration unit you can buy.............

posted somewhere in here

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=264543&page=5

The problem as I see it.

Replacement senders don't have the QC and accuracy the factory ones did

There is no factory specs for these gauges anywhere that I'm aware. Maybe if "this was" 1970 and "you knew" one of the Chrysler engineers.........

The original voltage limiter was NOT a voltage regulator, but a crude pulsing device.

So all that is stacked against you.
 
Because of all the bad press regarding repop senders, I am trying to reuse the original after a thorough cleaning and a new float. I just want to fine tune it before I install it in my new gas tank.
 
I managed to get my fuel gauge, sending unit, and bench power source hooked up and working tonight. I compared my original sending unit to a newer unit that was supposedly made by the original manufacturer.
My original sending unit needed only minor adjustments of the endpoints to "dial" it in. The repro unit did not respond in a linear fashion and really would not be useable. Looks like more wasted money on a poorly produced repro part.
 
The only gauge you can trust is your speedometer, and odometer, to keep track of where you are as far as fuel level is concerned.

This way is more accurate anyway. Even in their prime, these gauges we not much more than a suggestion. I'd focus OCD elsewhere, like your carb tune with a wideband so you can get the best out of your combination.
 
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