help me put together my exhaust

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diymirage

diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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hey guys

im slowly collecting pieces to get the V8 conversion done
so far I have the 360/727 combo and I have a set of headers on the way
the headers come with a 3 inch collector but im not sure if that would be overkill or not?

so far there are no performance upgrades to the engine but im sure once I get it in and running I will want to get at least a cam, intake and carb
maybe, maybe a stroker later on down the road

this car will be a daily driver with an attitude (its a 71 duster) and I only want to do it once


so,what size exhaust should I look for?
H pipe, X pipe or true duals?
any suggestions on mufflers, resonators or complete kits?

anything to avoid ?
 
Maybe some more details on your combo will help.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Maybe some more details on your combo will help.
Click to expand...

not to many details to give
it is a 360/727 out of a motorhome that is going into a 71 duster
it has dougs headers and the only other upgrade will be an electronic ignition (along the lines of a Skip White unit)
as it sits right now its a stock cam, stock intake, stock carb but all those I plan to upgrade later on once the engine has been proven to run well in the duster

halifaxhops said:
I am happy with this setup, just get heavier clamps.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-680144/overview/make/dodge
Click to expand...

I looked at those kits, I suppose I would need a 3-2.5 inch reducer to run it ?
that wouldn't create too much of a bottle neck?

and why do you suggest heavier clamps?
 
You don't say which headers you have.

Those summit/jegs kits work really well with hooker style or any of the copies.

2.5" exhaust and no crossover will sound pretty good if you want a choppier sound. X and H pipes generally soften exhaust tone.

The 3" is harder to fit but has a higher potential for high hp engines. Have to buy mufflers with the 3" kit IIRC.
 
diymirage said:
not to many details to give
it is a 360/727 out of a motorhome that is going into a 71 duster
it has dougs headers and the only other upgrade will be an electronic ignition (along the lines of a skip white unit)
as it sits right now its a stock cam, stock intake, stock carb but all those i plan to upgrade later on once the engine has been proven to run well in the duster



i looked at those kits, i suppose i would need a 3-2.5 inch reducer to run it ?
That wouldn't create too much of a bottle neck?

And why do you suggest heavier clamps?
Click to expand...



the kit comes with light duty clamps 5/16 i like 3/8 dia better it comes with a pair of 2.5 header connectors.
 
I got the Summit kit. It fit pretty well to the Hedman headers I had. I did shorten one section, but a welder and chop saw made quick work of that. Yours may require a little bit more modification with the Dougs. Off topic, but, if you do nothing else, change the timing set on that engine. Failure of the old "silent" cam gear has ruined many an engine.
 
That timing gear change is a good idea.

On your header question, I also used the same kit with excellent results. The mufflers are quite inside the car with a nice note when you get on it. Nice system all around. I will be getting another system for my '79 Magnum and my '71 Duster.

There a true dual system. To add a "H" pipe is easy. The addition will quite it down only a few DB's. Adding a "X" pipe is harder. The addition of ether of these will soften the exhaust note and as a little bit of power. You will not notice the power by the seat of your pants.

For your application, I would suggest the 2-1/2 pipe. The collector is 3 inches. The reducer to use goes down to 2-1/2 inches and makes connecting the system a whole lot easier. It is not a restriction or a power robbing item. It is also a necessary item.
 
thanks for all the advise guys
ill add the summit kit to the list

anyone remember roughly how long it took to install?
 
If you do not have to much to modify (cut) to fit the headers a couple of hours on your back.
 
It will work fine. Do you have the main seals for the pan also? A good time to do it when it is out. What I usually do is seal and paint all of the engine when it is out and usually the most inexpensive way is with a good engine gasket and seal set. Add up the timing, front and rear seals, intake and carb gaskets and it might be less to get a full set. I lean to felpro myself but that is me. If you can you might want to flush out the block with a hose to get as much stuff out of the water jacket as you can and if you have steel freezeout plugs a great time to change them also. Just my thoughts, I know it all adds up to an added expense but saves alot of *** pain in the long run.
 
I do already have a set of bass freeze plugs but I didn't think of the main seal yet
I keep going back and forth on how much to actually do while it is out
 
iF YOU HAVE A PEP BOYS NEAR YOU AND A REWARDS CARD YOU MAKE AN ORDER ONLINE AND WHEN YOU PICK IT UP YOU SAVE 25% i WISH i NEW THAT A YEAR AGO.
 
diymirage said:
thanks for all the advise guys
ill add the summit kit to the list

anyone remember roughly how long it took to install?
Click to expand...


I used the Jegs kit, because Summit couldn't answer a couple of my questions that I asked. Don't remember what they were now, but they were pertinent at the time.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=278654


Here's a thread where I installed it, it is pretty straight forward, it took me about 6 hours.

Straight kit with no crossover. 3" collectors down to 2.5" exhaust.
 
I think I did it in about the same time. Start when I walked out the door to the garage to when I cleaned up the last but of dirt off my hands after extensive test driving.
 
diymirage said:
I do already have a set of bass freeze plugs but I didn't think of the main seal yet
I keep going back and forth on how much to actually do while it is out
Click to expand...

Anything and everything that would be not so easy when it's in the car. I would seriously consider the cam swap now, that way you can button everything up and be done with it.

Again, that's why I suggested waiting, lol, until you have it the way you want. I mean the car IS drivable, no?

But, I also know the antsy feeling, lol. I'm chomping at the bit to get my engine built and put in, but I'm resisting the urge until I can have all of my duckies in a row.

While it's out, I want to strengthen the K, rebuild the entire front suspension and paint the engine bay.

That way I don't have to do it again.
 
I do want to do the cam, intake and carb at the same time but what is holding me back (on the cam mainly) is that I don't know the engine
I cant guarantee it will fire up and run properly on the first try so I am not sure if I could do the break in properly

now, if I could come across a killer deal on a used combination of those parts I might still bite the bullet
specially since im doing the timing chain anyway im halfway there
 
diymirage said:
I cant guarantee it will fire up and run properly on the first try so I am not sure if I could do the break in properly
Click to expand...

Well, I guess I understand, lol.

BUT, if you have it set up right, from the git go, it should fire. The big thing is to make sure everything is set at a baseline, timing, carb etc.

It should fire and run. But if that's a concern (and I know the feeling), you can go with a good used cam and matching lifters that someone has already run, that will take some of the anxiety out of it. Having a good known carb on there at start up is a huge plus.
 
so I ordered the summit 2.5 kit
should be here soon


should I start on the front of the car, working from the headers back or does it make more sense to start at the very back of the car working forward since none of those pieces should need to get cut down to fit ?
 
I start at the back of the car and move forward. Then tweak from the headers back. You may have to trim the tail pipe so it is even. You can loosely install the pipes into each other and mark it with a sharpie where you want it to stay and where it maybe needed to trim.
Loosely install the clamps to hold it where you want it.
Once you have everything where you want it, snug down the clamps.

I used the Jeg's kit on my first Duster ('74) and the Summit kits on my second Duster ('71) and my Magnum. ('79) though designed for earlier B bodies with Hooker Comp headers, not the Super Compa as listed.
 
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