That leads me to a question. My engine builder told me to run 20/50. I do realize that a loose engine may require a heavier oil but I was thinking of 15/40. As long as I have oil pressure at idle I should be good right ?
Help me shave off 3 tenths in the 1/4
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That leads me to a question. My engine builder told me to run 20/50. I do realize that a loose engine may require a heavier oil but I was thinking of 15/40. As long as I have oil pressure at idle I should be good right ?
That's a happy dyno or you are losing 170hp through the driveline. 530 at 3800 should be trapping 117-120ish
5500rpm 3.91 gear and 26" tire is 108-109 with ZERO slip. Not gonna happen with an auto car.
I'd figure out why the engine is 100hp down from where it dyno'd
5500rpm 3.91 gear and 26" tire is 108-109 with ZERO slip. Not gonna happen with an auto car.
I'd figure out why the engine is 100hp down from where it dyno'd
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rule of thumb 10 psi for every 1000 rpm at least for duel use cars , your engine builder should know what clearances for what weight oiling , lose is still fast , not wore out , lol . did he tell who's oil to run as well ?
chrgdrt
Well-Known Member
If you still have the 74 bumper on you could swap to a 70/71 without the rubber bumperettes and the brace behind the bumper, go with a fiberglass AARm hood and you've taken about 70lb's off the nose. Move the battery to the trunk. And I vote for a Higher stall convertor.
He didn't tell me what brand to run, but sold me the stuff he deals with
Shaved and tucked numbers. I'm really considering the Fiberglas shaker hood. That would also allow me to run a 1" carb spacer that showed 9 hp on dyno but can't use due to hood clearance issues.I also know that my current shaker setup does cost some ponies but I do love a shaker.
Battery is in trunk
stroked340
Well-Known Member
Put the engine in a A-body..you'd already be in the 11's
11.2 , my cam grinder is got this stuff . has a few differant additives and lots of zink . pricy but you don;t need it every change , coats an treats the metal surfaces . some of his nascar boys swear on it for their engines .
skrews
Well-Known Member
50 HP shot of NOS
that extra weight won't slow you down , lol .
younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
That engine combo need converter.
your time is lost in the first 300 ft, gotta get that tank moving. with the 110 mph its running 11.8 - 11.9 would be a perfect run.
the 60' needs some work.
the 60' needs some work.
I agree
If you're running a flat tappet cam i have no oil recommendations!
If it's a roller cam and you have 40 psi at idle(HOT). you will lose a tenth going to a synthetic 5W20. I have done it!
Have you recurved your dist? What is your initial and total timing? if you haven't mess with it...... there a good 60' jump(and you know that will transfer all the way to your ET)
Dropping your exh may be worth a tenth....... or not! mine didn't care either way.
Remove exh and added a 10.5" collector and it killed a tenth.
To be able to bolt on the collector and still keep your exh will require some exh mods.
Read your plugs lately? A jet change may help........
What carb are you running?
When i was running 3.91 i had some 28" tires that i drove to the track, and then installed my 26" slicks.
As far as gutting it.......I have the same problem, 70 barracuda full interior, 3860 with me in it.
408, 12.5 compression RHS heads HYD roller, .562/.550 lift 243/247 @.050 duration.
shift at 5800 rpm. A best of 11.96@112(at 4200 feet)
A lot of thing you can do without spending any or little money, before you go for the high dollars stuff.
I know you have already said no, and it is a high dollar item but, a converter would get you, your 3 tenths......If you can make it hook!
If it's a roller cam and you have 40 psi at idle(HOT). you will lose a tenth going to a synthetic 5W20. I have done it!
Have you recurved your dist? What is your initial and total timing? if you haven't mess with it...... there a good 60' jump(and you know that will transfer all the way to your ET)
Dropping your exh may be worth a tenth....... or not! mine didn't care either way.
Remove exh and added a 10.5" collector and it killed a tenth.
To be able to bolt on the collector and still keep your exh will require some exh mods.
Read your plugs lately? A jet change may help........
What carb are you running?
When i was running 3.91 i had some 28" tires that i drove to the track, and then installed my 26" slicks.
As far as gutting it.......I have the same problem, 70 barracuda full interior, 3860 with me in it.
408, 12.5 compression RHS heads HYD roller, .562/.550 lift 243/247 @.050 duration.
shift at 5800 rpm. A best of 11.96@112(at 4200 feet)
A lot of thing you can do without spending any or little money, before you go for the high dollars stuff.
I know you have already said no, and it is a high dollar item but, a converter would get you, your 3 tenths......If you can make it hook!
Another one for the converter. Most converter people will give you one free stall change. Even just a couple hundred rpm can make a big difference in torque range of a stroker. You're not looking for much and it's only labor.
tsc out of Vancouver? Did you mean TCS Canada? They should be able to restall it for a small fee. What is the flash RPM when you launch? Mine is a 3K stall by TCS-Canada, and flashes to 3800 on launch, but I don't shift until 6700-7000. Still streetable motor.
5500RPM? You need alot more RPMs.
Your dyno numbers, what RPM are those?
5500RPM? You need alot more RPMs.
Your dyno numbers, what RPM are those?
chrgdrt
Well-Known Member
Since you don't want to change convertors and you have the 518, swap out your 3.91's for 4.30's, that will help your 60' if you can hook.
Don't change the exh. if you like it just install dumps and open them @ the track,(.1 to .15) improvement on my car.
A lighter tire/wheel package will help.
Also if your dyno #'s are corrected for sea level that may be where some of your HP went since you're running @ 2500'
you need about 2 or 3 mph more to get where you want, the single plane may give you that if you're shifting & trapping above 6000rpm's.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I dont want to hurt your feelings but you aint nowhere near 530 HP. Even at 3800 pounds 530 puts you WELL into the 11,s. You need to figure out where the HP went, or get a new dyno operator because they dyno cant lie. But the operator can.
I know better than to post dyno numbers, I don't even know why I did.It's tuneing tool. And yes this one is probably full of bs just as a lot are. I know that between the spacer I can't run, the elevation difference, the perfect air supply ( no restriction )and cooling that the dyno supplies I'm down over 60hp as soon as it comes off the dyno, now let's say the dyno is 30hp out... Oddly enough my car runs very close to another Cuda at the track with a very similar build, so wether I have a 400hp engine or a 500hp engine I believe it is running to its full potential. I thank everyone for the help, especially furyus2, you know where I'm coming from.
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
make a run with no fan
Yeah, I have an electric I think I might put back on just to try at track, unfortunately it doesn't keep up in traffic due to the big ac rad I have smack dab in front. But I gotta have my ac. I want everything, fast with all the luxuries, lol
Back in the 70's, a fix fan was said to cost 11HP @ 5000 RPM.
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
mechanical fan dyno test on a 490hp engine at 6300 rpm = best fan cost 6hp, worst fan cost 30hp
That is amazing. In the 70's we would run a larger radiator, and not a run a fan at all.
I had one of those fans, sounded like a helicopter going down the road eating HP.
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