help modern alt., old car help.

-

mcat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2009
Messages
284
Reaction score
16
Location
cincinnati ohio 45251
i got my hemi started.(2006 alt) but the the alternator is not charging(i used the below diagram) i took the alt to 2 diff. places both said it is good... i have tried 2 different regulators i tried direct grounds on alt.and reg. the hot comes from the alt directly to the battery, no gauge.i tried all new wires with both regs. when the key is on and one field wire is hot, both wires going into the regulator are hot. if i unplug the both fields from the alt, only the key'd wire is hot any ideas? hi rpm and low rpm.. still no charge i have a small battey/alternator test light with multiple lights that show whats going on. when the battery is checked with it 3 lights are lit.(thats good) when its running, only 1 light lit..(thats bad)http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1714703694&stc=1&d=1394408896
 
Sounds like a regulator problem. The regulator is supposed to provide a ground for the one field wire ( when it detects that the battery voltage is below a certant threshold) Try disconnecting to field wire that is not going to the battery and ground it. If the alternator goes to full charge I would suspect the regulator, if it doesn't the alternator is bad. Good Luck!
 
Sounds like a regulator problem. The regulator is supposed to provide a ground for the one field wire ( when it detects that the battery voltage is below a certant threshold) Try disconnecting to field wire that is not going to the battery and ground it. If the alternator goes to full charge I would suspect the regulator, if it doesn't the alternator is bad. Good Luck!
your a smart man.. i grounded the feild wire and the alt went to full charge.
so i wire an early single wire regulator. seems good now.. 2 bad new regs
 
Mine is hooked up exactly as the diagram. I killed 2-3 voltage regulators (which resulted in overcharging) before switching to a new brand of voltage regulator that has withstood the abuse the other voltage regulators failed under.

For reference, I'm at 5,200 miles on my swap now with my wiring as per the diagram above.

Does the voltage regulator case have a solid ground where it's screwed in?

I'm sure you know this, but the voltage regulator 'switches' current on and off through the alternator fields via 'grounding' the 'F' post on the regulator.
 
Do some checking. See the wire marked "I" ? (IGNITION) That should have "same as battery" when key is in "run"

So one terminal of the alternator field, and the VR IGN terminal should get battery voltage from the key

===============

The VR MUST MUST be grounded. Clean the mount, scrape, mount "tight" with star locks

===============

For a "quick test" Make sure that one field terminal has 12V from the key. Disconnect the regulator field wire (green originally)

Use a clip lead to ground that field terminal. This should put switched 12V ignition right through the field. In dim light, you should be able to connect / disconnect the clip lead and see a small spark.

With this hooked up start the engine and slowly bring up RPM. Batter voltage / ammeter should show a charge. Don't get carried away with RPM

Also, examine or replace the VR connector. Is this an old junkyard one? Might not be making contact at the VR.
 
-
Back
Top