Help on tuning 408 that's running rich

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3406pk

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I have had a stumble or hesitation that comes on at 3500-4000 rpm on my 408 sb duster.
First the specs: 5.9L Dodge engine with stroker, 408 ci, 10.5 cr, Hughes hyd. roller cam 240I/242E, Eddy RPM airgap intake, Holley 870 street avenger (vacuum secondary). Accel distributor, Rev-n-nator ign control box, timing 18 initial, 34 total, Champion plugs 3344. Trans 727, 3.55 rear gear.
I have taken the car to 1/8 mile drags for about 5 years. Best 7.95 at 91 mph. Was pretty consistent until end of last season. Then it developed hestitation as noted above, in 1st gear would go thru it pretty fast, but 2nd gear was noticeable. Did not do it all time and thought at first it was heat related like vapor lock. Added 1" plastic carb spacer, but didn't make much change. So at Devils Run car show this May there was a shop doing chassis dyno short HP pulls for bragging purposes. Anyway I put my car on with the Air/Fuel meter hooked up. Sure enough they could load it so the stumble was very prominent. The engine went very rich down to 9 to 10 on A/F ratio. We didn't have much time or parts to chase it and mechanic thought maybe Power Valve was bad or needle seats leaking. I got carb kit and tore it apart. The carb was untouched from when built and dyno'ed in 2007. It has 78 primary jets, 8.5 power valve, 82 secondary jets, 4.5 secondary PV. Yellow spring in vacuum secondary. I found the power valves work ok, but decided to replace primary PV with 6.5 since engine vacuum runs 13 and drops to 11 in gear. I thought about going to 80 secondary jets and 77 on primary. Some plugs are tan and most are sooty. I was also going to try Autolite 65 plugs since some members have good luck with them. I am checking plug wires, and ignition for problems too.
Attached is dyno sheet and the dip in A/F and HP are really noticeable. Original engine dyno tests was little rich but not that bad. Is there some tuning tips that would help that dip. Thanks for your expertise.
 

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What cylinder head.

I'm not a fan of that particular carb. It's got a huge fuel curve issue.

If you don't have an A/F meter, get one and you can sort this out. It may take some jet changes or it could require a bunch of work probing the metering block orfices and getting the curve correct.
 
Heads are RHS magnum type w mild port work. Thanks crackedback, yeah I'll have to put in oxygen sensor to get spot on. Before it was a bit rich but ran good. I'll play with jets and watch plugs to get closer until I can get one.
 
Make sure the floats are set properly and even slightly lower than suggested.

These carbs have had problems for user for a long time.
 
Thanks crackedback and poison. I started reading the two links and got in 2 pages and see that the articles hit my problem too. I'll need the A/F meter and some studying to tune it better. Sounds like it's a step by step process. Either that or convert to EFI. Thanks again.
 
Change to the next stiffer spring on vac secondary.Increase initial timing to about 22-26 keep
total around 34-36
 
Thanks Downsr. Stiffer is better all the time. That makes sense to delay secondary a little.
 
one thing that i can think of is the power valves. if the power valves are 4 slotted-hole ones, they are high-flow units. you could try a std flow one with the same ``vaccuum level``. that means if what you have is a 4.5 hi-flo (125-145 holley) , you could try a 4.5 std flow (125-45) which will have only 2 slots on its side. for what they cost, it is definitely worth trying. it will get your mixture leaner. most carb kits come with hi-flo power valves wich isnt always a good thing.
 
my stock-stroke 360 uses hi-flow power valves front and back, and its 750 holley runs 73/75 jets. i understand yours is a stroker and uses a larger carb, but you could try reducing jet sizes in order to correct your rich condition. you should try to find the correct power valves for your engine BEFORE starting to jet-down.
 
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