Help Please!!!

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74360duster

JEREMY
Joined
Jan 21, 2006
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JAMESTOWN,MO
i just installed the #'s matching 360 back into my 74 duster. put some flat top 9.5.1 pistons with the 284/484 drag comp purple shaft cam. it is on top dead center,intake is sealing fine, it will not run at 10-12* at idle. i adjust it to 32* at 2000rpm. it will idle then die. will not stay running in neutral or drive. when i set the timing to 51* at idle the car runs and sounds great and will also run in gear. the car is idling at 1050 right now, and drops smoothly into gear without lunging. it has a b&m 2400 stall. any ideas on what my problem is. i am thinking maybe the timing chain may be off a tooth? i am dreading having to pull the front cover since i just put it together and have the a/c hooked back up.
 
are you sure your balancer ring hasn't slipped? Are you using your original front cover and balancer? Don't you wish you had double checked that the balancer is correct at tdc and that the cam was degreed correctly before it went in?
 
yes i do. i put it together off the old engine. it was running ok but was burning oil. it is the old cover and balancer w/ new doubl roller chain.
 
74360duster said:
i just installed the #'s matching 360 back into my 74 duster. put some flat top 9.5.1 pistons with the 284/484 drag comp purple shaft cam. it is on top dead center,intake is sealing fine, it will not run at 10-12* at idle. i adjust it to 32* at 2000rpm. it will idle then die. will not stay running in neutral or drive. when i set the timing to 51* at idle the car runs and sounds great and will also run in gear. the car is idling at 1050 right now, and drops smoothly into gear without lunging. it has a b&m 2400 stall. any ideas on what my problem is. i am thinking maybe the timing chain may be off a tooth? i am dreading having to pull the front cover since i just put it together and have the a/c hooked back up.
Click to expand...

Maybe a real bad vacuum leak?
Check with carb cleaner around carb base.

Is the vacuum advance hose connected to manifold port by mistake?

Hope you don't have to take the front off again...that's a big job.
 
Is it real sluggish acting? Years back I put a new timing chain on mine and ended up installing it on the wrong keyway. It was in the retarded position. I really watch those multiple cut crank sprockets. Live and learn.
 
i believe there was only 1 key way on each sprocket. i was damn sure i had the dots pointing at each other. i have not checked vacuum at idle. i unhooked the booster to check there. did not change anything. sprayed carb cleaner around the base of carb and intake to heads and made no change. i tried 2 different afb carbs 1 was off my big block coronet that runs great. i am to the point where it might be best to just bite the bullet and pull the front cover. as soon as i get it running it is going up for sale. i have decided to sell this car and my coronet to buy a viper or a corvette. i am leaning towards the viper..if anyone is interested in this car or the big block coronet feel free to call me at 573-821-6585 or knows of someone who might be

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I had a very similar problem on my 340 engine ........... I drove it for a while and finally got tired of trying to figure it out ......... took it to a really good Mopar mechanic and had him look it over ........... my problem (in my situation but caused the same symptoms) was the carb linkage was way too short and that caused the throttle plates to be open prematurely. I had the timing set to about 50 or 52 degrees at 2000 RPM's ........ at idle, it was about 20 something.
He lengthened the carb rod and then checked the passing gear rod and found it was also too short (both were about 2 1/2" too short) he welded a section into each and then checked the timing and everything else ........... it ran like a 'scared rabbit'!!!!!!!!!!
It made a world of difference .......... at least in my situation. Hope this helps to jog your memory as to something that you changed that would cause this situation and want to check into it more.
Good luck.
Greg
 
mtn_jake said:
I had a very similar problem on my 340 engine ........... I drove it for a while and finally got tired of trying to figure it out ......... took it to a really good Mopar mechanic and had him look it over ........... my problem (in my situation but caused the same symptoms) was the carb linkage was way too short and that caused the throttle plates to be open prematurely. I had the timing set to about 50 or 52 degrees at 2000 RPM's ........ at idle, it was about 20 something.
He lengthened the carb rod and then checked the passing gear rod and found it was also too short (both were about 2 1/2" too short) he welded a section into each and then checked the timing and everything else ........... it ran like a 'scared rabbit'!!!!!!!!!!
It made a world of difference .......... at least in my situation. Hope this helps to jog your memory as to something that you changed that would cause this situation and want to check into it more.
Good luck.
Greg
Click to expand...

i'll check that tomorrow night. but i think it is ok? maybe
 
When you put the front cover and balancer on, did the timing mark line up? Did you rotate the motor before the balancer went on? I'm betting on a problem with timing
 
you know i did not even pay any attention to the fact if the timing mark lined up when i did put the balancer on. i am feeling like a retard lately on this car. it has been driving me nuts. i have not even looked at it for about a week now. i am so tired of it. but i need to get back at it so i can sell it. at least it is #s matching again.
 
Well....pull #1 plug and carefully roll the motor over to TDC. Use a long screwdriver (or something) to "feel" when you get there. But do it by feel and NOT by looking at the mark. Then check the mark, and check your distributor while you're at it to see where it's pointing
 
If you didn't degree the cam in when you installed it it's possible the timing set, even though it's new, is off a few degrees. Back when I was 19 I had a Pontiac and put a timing chain set in it and it was way off causing the same symptoms you described. Last year when I was rebuilding my 360 I had some extra time and 3 different double roller timing sets and tested each to see how close they were. The cam I was using was a Comp XE274 and the first timing set was a Comp. It was 2 degrees retarded. The next set I tried was a Cloyes and it was only 1 degree retarded. The last set I tried was a Summit brand billet set that was supposed to be real good. Yeah right! It was 4 degrees retarded. I've heard other guys have worse than that too. That's why I now always degree in every cam I install.
 
on top dead center the timing mark on the balancer is on 0. i pulled the front cover off and found the dots are facing straight up. they are in line with a straight edge. the only way the motor will run in gear at an idle is if i set the initial timing at 51 degrees. this is at a 1000rpm idle.then the car will run in gear. if i set the timing at 34-36 at 2500 rpm the car will not run in gear and will not idle without slowing down and dying. any ideas as to what i should do next. i have front cover off for now. is there a chance the key way was cut in the wrong position on my purple shaft cam i bought new from mopar??
 
are you checking the timing with the vacuum line to the dist. disconnected and plugged. If you had 51* at idle I'm not sure that the starter would even crank that over.
 
are you dropping the distributor in pointing to #1 with the dots lined up? i hope not cuz that isn't tdc on #1. after you line up the dots bump it over til it brings #1 up to tdc( i use the finger method).
 
Beauty thing about V8 Mopars. It's either "IN" or it's out 180. If he was out 180 then it wouldn't be running at all
 
Did you say both dots on the timming chain are pointing up?. They should be crank gear at 12 oclock and cam gear at 6 oclock. Might be the way you worded it but just in case. also are you useing a timing lite with adjustable advance? that could be messed up. I would set the timming by ear and then drive it at a steady spead of say 60mph and if it dosen't surge and when you accelerate from that speed it dosn't spark knock. you should be ok.
I always tune my cars to max advance untill I get a hint of knock the back it off a couple of degrees and lock it down. every engine is different.
 
He is correct when the dots are both at the top of the gears when the engine is fireing. If the dots were together as they would be when a engine is assembled then the timing is 180* out.
 
the dots are at the top on tdc. i put a drinking straw in the hole and cranked the motor until it came to the top, rotor at #1 and the timing mark was right at 0*. i set the timing initially at around 10-12*.would not run. played with it some more. got a different timing light from work. checked it and at 51* of initial timing at 1000rpm the engine will run and will run when dropped into gear. i tried setting the timing at 2500 rpm at 34-36 deg. the car would not idle without dying and would not run in gear..should i buy an adjustable timing gear set or move the sprocket 1-2 teeth? I even tried a distributor out of my truck. did not gain anything. i have the advanced unhooked.
thanks to all.
 
Double check your plug wires. Sometimes those #5 and #7 get crossed very easily. I've done it several times.
 
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