Hello, Fabo. I am having trouble with my duster. The motor was taken apart for about three weeks while I was waiting for money. I replaced the water pump, all hoses, belts, thermostat, housing, etc. While most of these parts were removed, we blocked all open outlets and power sprayed everything.Also i removed the instrument cluster to restore. About a week after we put everything back together and went to start the car. The car will not turn over. The headlights work,inside buzzer works, but nothing happens when you turn the key. There is a faint clicking noise close to distributor/coil area. Today we replaced negative battery cable, charged battery(almost new battery), changed the distributor rotor(metal piece was bent). I looked in the bulkhead connector and it was clean in all three sections. Also, the fusible link by the bulkhead seems to be fine. The car cranks over when you touch the positive stud and negative on the starter relay. Any ideas of what is going on? Thanks for any help
HELP:Slant Six Wont Turn Over
- Thread starter Jeffs73
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Have someone twist the key to start while you listen under the hood. You should be able to hear the starter relay kick in. If you do, and yet jumpering across it causes the starter to crank, then the relay is bad. This:
Did you let any "smoke" out of it? You see, electronics run on smoke. If you let the smoke out, they won't run anymore...
You have to keep the smoke on the inside of the electronics for them to work properly. If too much smoke gets out, and they run low on smoke on the inside, they won't work anymore.
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
this is the true theory of electricity as far as im concerned...
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
where are you in AZ? im up in North Phx and can help if your near by...
Could you possibly have gotten water in one of the cylinders? Take the spark plugs out and turn the engine over (with starter or by hand) and see if any water comes out. If any water got into a cylinder, it will dead stop the engine on the compression stroke for that cylinder. If it will crank with the spark plugs out, enough water will blow out for you to put the plugs in and try starting it again.
Im sorry but I have no idea what you mean by smoke? There is also no way I got water in any cylinders.
The smoke is a kidding around thing. When we had electronics in Industrial Survey in High School, we built miniature stop lights. Our teacher applied the acid to the circuit board and we had to sotter the diodes, wires, switch, and capacitors to it. There was always one dumbass who put his capacitor on backwards and when he plugged it in for the first time to test it, it would just let out a huge stream of smoke.
This is where the "smoke" theory of electronics came from. Once the capacitor smoked, it was fried and you would have to get another one and sotter it on correctly. However, since this was an "intro" class to industrial arts and we were on a six week rotation so we could get a taste of each of the industrial arts, the person that fried their capacitors did not have enough time to fix it and we ridiculed them for making a mistake. There was usually one person in every class that did this.
Also when I worked in the auto industry, one of my supervisors was an electrical engineer and he also referred to the "smoke theory of electronics". If you let too much smoke out, they won't work anymore. Meaning you fried your electronics...
Oh, thats what i figured but I dont think i fried anything with the car just sitting there. Electronics are ridiculous
I am way in Queen creek unfortunately. But thanks for the offer. And sweet dart!
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Look at the relay I posted. On the two "push on" wires, there should be a yellow or yellow tracer. This wire should be hot when you twist the key to "start." Check with a light or meter
If not, you may? have a seat belt interlock. Look around under the hood for a horn relay sized box with a reset push button. If you find it, clip the two "yellowish" wires and splice them together and try again.
If you do have power at the yellow start relay wire, hold the key to "start" and wiggle the shifter from park -- neutral. If the starter tries to engage, either the shifter is out of adjustment, there is wear in the linkage, the NSS is bad, or a bad wire connection, or something is bad inside the trans.
You can also temporarily remove the "push on" wire which goes from the relay down to the transmission, and use a "clip lead" from that relay terminal to ground. Be careful, as it will crank in any gear
The start relay / NSS is a simple series circuit. The two "push on" terminals on the relay are the relay coil. The circuit path is............
power from the start position of the key ----yellow wire -- out through the bulkhead connector --- through the seatbelt interlock if used -- to one terminal of the relay ---through the relay coil -- down the firewall to the NSS (center pin) and the switch grounds in park or neutral.
If not, you may? have a seat belt interlock. Look around under the hood for a horn relay sized box with a reset push button. If you find it, clip the two "yellowish" wires and splice them together and try again.
If you do have power at the yellow start relay wire, hold the key to "start" and wiggle the shifter from park -- neutral. If the starter tries to engage, either the shifter is out of adjustment, there is wear in the linkage, the NSS is bad, or a bad wire connection, or something is bad inside the trans.
You can also temporarily remove the "push on" wire which goes from the relay down to the transmission, and use a "clip lead" from that relay terminal to ground. Be careful, as it will crank in any gear
The start relay / NSS is a simple series circuit. The two "push on" terminals on the relay are the relay coil. The circuit path is............
power from the start position of the key ----yellow wire -- out through the bulkhead connector --- through the seatbelt interlock if used -- to one terminal of the relay ---through the relay coil -- down the firewall to the NSS (center pin) and the switch grounds in park or neutral.
The slant six is already leaning at a 30* angle. Just unbolt from everything and it'll turn right over all by itself.
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