help with 1973 dart sport z-bar

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denied88

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Jan 7, 2016
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cresson,pa
hey guys need some help everything is new clutch and zbar but for some reason seems like the zbar is short i bought it at carlisle and didnt have one to compare it to but when i push the clutch in it sticks to the floor or the zbar goes to far to the left or right i tried to shim it out from the engine side but then my fork was too short and i started throwing the trowout bearing off any ideas would be appreciated
 
You're not running a diaphragm clutch with the pedal over-center spring, are you?
 
There is supposed to be a clip installed on the outboard end of the Z-bar, indexed into the nylon bushings, to keep the Z-bar from moving laterally. If, after the bar is properly anchored, the inboard end reaches the ball on the bellhouse, then it is the correct length. If the inboard down-bar is straight then you have the correct Z-bar.
If your installed Z-bar sits parallel to the ground, and at 90* to the frame rail in plan-view, then the inboard ball is at the correct height.
Then we need to talk about the fork. There are just 3 different forks. One is for the Overdrive unit, and two are for the older bells; a long and a short. The forks are married to the bells, and their fork bracket styles, which are married to the K-members. This is clear on the Brewer's site.
Then we need to talk about that assist spring.SBMs usually run 10.5 clutches. There was a 9.5 273 clutch years ago. IDK what type it was, nor if the assist spring was required.
Of the 10.5s or 11" scallopeds;
Borg and Beck units are a hard-to-push design and absolutely do need the assist spring. The diaphragm clutches are an easy-to-push design, and do not have enough power to return the pedal if the assist spring is on there.Then there are the Long-3-finger types. I've never run one and don't know if they require the assist-spring.
But whatever you are running; if the TO fork is of proper length and correctly installed, then for you, the assist spring needs to come off.
 
Last edited:
There is supposed to be a clip installed on the outboard end of the Z-bar, indexed into the nylon bushings, to keep the Z-bar from moving laterally. If, after the bar is properly anchored, the inboard end reaches the ball on the bellhouse, then it is the correct length. If the inboard down-bar is straight then you have the correct Z-bar.
If your installed Z-bar sits parallel to the ground, and at 90* to the frame rail in plan-view, then the inboard ball is at the correct height.
Then we need to talk about the fork. There are just 3 different forks. One is for the Overdrive unit, and two are for the older bells; a long and a short. The forks are married to the bells, and their fork bracket styles, which are married to the K-members. This is clear on the Brewer's site.
Then we need to talk about that assist spring.SBMs usually run 10.5 clutches. There was a 9.5 273 clutch years ago. IDK what type it was, nor if the assist spring was required.
Of the 10.5s or 11" scallopeds;
Borg and Beck units are a hard-to-push design and absolutely do need the assist spring. The diaphragm clutches are an easy-to-push design, and do not have enough power to return the pedal if the assist spring is on there.Then there are the Long-3-finger types. I've never run one and don't know if they require the assist-spring.
But whatever you are running; if the TO fork is of proper length and correctly installed, then for you, the assist spring needs to come off.
wow that is a lot of info im gonna have to look at some things im not sure about any of this cause this car was in a box when i bought it i know there is no spring on the fork and the bell was off the trans when i got it but it came with 2 trans when i got it but i put the numbers trans in it the zbar seems like it should be right cause it wont come off the balls the whole way but it does come clear out to the end and almost comes off it also is really close to the starter when it does and sometimes rubs it so it could be any of the above is there a part number or marking of any kind on the fork
 
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