Help, with a friends 67 Cuda 340 issue

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rp23g7

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Hey guys, wondering if anyone may have a idea about a issue with a car.

My friend has a 67 Cuda, with a 340, Auto, 600CFM Holley, Torker 340 manifold, headers and points ignition.

I have ridden in the car when it is running good, and its a street terror.

Problem history and symptoms.

A few weeks ago he was at a show, and it started to rain. At the end of the day, he started it and let it idle, with two other cars and talked to his buddies.

They left and he found that his engine had died. He tried starting it and it wouldnt start, but cranked ok. After looking at a few things he found a cracked dist. cap. He replaced it and tried starting it.

He said it bucked and spit fuel and backfired etc, another bad cap, replaced and it ran, but wasnt right.

He got home and replaced the points and tuned it, he said it still kinda surged at midrange and was down on power.

I went over to help yesterday, since he had a old Holley (1980 vintage) and said it had backfied we replaced the power valve, replaced and gapped the points.

The float bowl was clean inside and the jets had nothing in them. we drove it again, and it still was down on power and had a slight surge midrange.

I drove it, never having driven it before, it idles fine, but if you get on it around 30mph, it is a dog no power, and it does have a slight surge at a steady 40 mph or so.

We checked the vacume advance, it seems to be working, we timed it at about 10 before, we replaced the distributer and points etc and i drove it again, same issue, no power at midrange.

This car can normally chirp the tires manually shifting from 1st to second and kicked my 440's butt from a stop before, now its just falling on its face.

Any ideas, could it be the carb itself? It seems ok, no belching of black smoke and it seems to be tuned ok.
 
Are you changing the condenser also?

Did you put the correct rating power valve in?

Have you tested the coil?

nothing changed parts wise, so it can be the carb gaskets,coil,condenser that are the problem.

if you put a socket on the crank and utrn it back an forth, can you feel a lot of slack before it grabs the cam gear?

Are there any noises like rocker clatter, do all the valves come back up all the way?

It will be a process of elimination with something like this.
 
Are you changing the condenser also?

Did you put the correct rating power valve in?

Have you tested the coil?

nothing changed parts wise, so it can be the carb gaskets,coil,condenser that are the problem.

if you put a socket on the crank and utrn it back an forth, can you feel a lot of slack before it grabs the cam gear?

Are there any noises like rocker clatter, do all the valves come back up all the way?

It will be a process of elimination with something like this.

Yes, the condenser was changed also.

The power valve is correct, no change from before the replacement.

No vacume leaks, close the choke with it running and it will die.

No slack in the chain, we turned the engine with a socket and it is tight,

no clattering or anything.

Forgot to mention that this is a pretty fresh motor.

It sat for 20 yrs, then was taken apart, rebuilt 60 over, and put together again last yr.

Its really a evil car when its running right.
 
When I read that he is still running points I thought how about changing the condenser? A good electronic ignition would eliminate a lot of problems there. Also a 600 cfm carb with a Torker intake? That just seems like a mismatch anyway, even if it has nothing to do with this particular problem. A good dual-plane intake and a bit larger carb would help a lot with overall street performance.
 
Yes, the condenser was changed also.

The power valve is correct, no change from before the replacement.

No vacume leaks, close the choke with it running and it will die.

No slack in the chain, we turned the engine with a socket and it is tight,

no clattering or anything.

Forgot to mention that this is a pretty fresh motor.

It sat for 20 yrs, then was taken apart, rebuilt 60 over, and put together again last yr.

Its really a evil car when its running right.

Leak down test time.
When the rings/valves 'mainly the rings' go south...the power go's flat.

how does the mark look with a time light, does it move around a lot?

you didnt mention the coil, so you could start on the cheap and test/change that.
Fuel pressure should also be tested.
 
Are you changing the condenser also?

Did you put the correct rating power valve in?

Have you tested the coil?

nothing changed parts wise, so it can be the carb gaskets,coil,condenser that are the problem.

if you put a socket on the crank and utrn it back an forth, can you feel a lot of slack before it grabs the cam gear?

Are there any noises like rocker clatter, do all the valves come back up all the way?

It will be a process of elimination with something like this.

Yes, the condenser was changed also.

The power valve is correct, no change from before the replacement.

No vacume leaks, close the choke with it running and it will die.

No slack in the chain, we turned the engine with a socket and it is tight,

no clattering or anything.

Forgot to mention that this is a pretty fresh motor.

It sat for 20 yrs, then was taken apart, rebuilt 60 over, and put together.

Its really a evil car when its running right.
 
Too much point gap, distributor shaft ( lobes or bearings ) worn out. Plug wires crossed.
Improving the charging system and adding electronic ignition has made a huge difference in my 273.
 
it turns out he got the wrong power valve, he had a 35 and needed a 65, replaced it and he said it was fine, thanks guys
 
it turns out he got the wrong power valve, he had a 35 and needed a 65, replaced it and he said it was fine, thanks guys

wow..that is a new one, the wrong power valve kept it from starting???
 
He was probably idling on the mains -with the wrong power valve, flooded it/fouled plugs till it died and wouldn't wanna start back up.

That coupled with the probability he's running 5 to 10* initial timing.
 
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